Rab

Is it actually damage to the cam's in this case or just acceptable wear? (not suggesting that the original and other cams haven't got a problem, just asking if any wear at all is something we should be worried about)

Neither yet I think - he just bought the car - previous owner did all the brake changes (another reason warranty probably won't follow) I think all he want's to do now is get it properly sorted - First point of call would be the shop that fitted them to see if they are likely to give any help. Next point would be someone he sources to fix it.

Doubt it reads too low - the final number for the baby turbo is bloody respectable. Am tipping the original run was low for whatever reason (limp right foot?) - 113mph for the 1/4 would take a hell of a lot more than 206rwkw's, but 320rwkw's is probably about where the car is now.

Would be interesting to see what the shop says - and if they can help out with the solution. Chances are they were following the previous owners requests rather than their own recommendations. CT/Ultimate - I think you'd be able to work out by the amount of brake dust on your wheels - ultimates are pretty dusty. Either should be better than OEM's. Stock rotors would still be fine - probably get 100k out of them. If it is warped rotors that's the problem then it's the rotors themselves, not that they're worn. They got hot and got bent - reports of it happening all too often struck RDA's off my list - I think they have good rotors and one's not so good (something about manufacturing moving from Oz to Malaysia?? for their lower tier discs?) Machine them and it'll fix it short term - they'll warp again. If, as you say, you like your brakes then call it in another 10k before they need machining. Less K's each time before you need to do it. Pads, fluid and braided lines will make more of a difference than whichever rotors (without going bigger) you go with to brake feel and stopping power - up to the point of fade. If you were counting coins before an upgrade I'd go for T2's and braided lines rather than T3's or better rotors for street duties. (am looking at the Shockworks brakes at the moment - 4 pot, floating discs $2k (fronts) - as my upgrade path from the T2's) Will be interesting what the shop says - am tipping it'll be something along the lines of "we put on what we were told to"

Yeah - was probably unrelated (as I said). Not sure what the issue was they were solving, just hinting that there may be some reason for it.

Not sure if it's relevant at all, but I remember something from a few days ago where a surge tank was recommended as well to compliment an in-tank to help with/due to fuel return/fuel temp and/or something else

You've joined B.A.?

Stupid us didn't even notice

Would be cheaper for Don to start shooting up than keep filling his car up

Probably got you blocked like the forum did

Could be the 305 MT's on the rear?

I reckon even Kimberly will be weighing up his options with this - not a bad price at all. Wonder what sticker specials will be offered down the track - $49k for leather, auto, premium paint etc would be hard to pass up (although a manual would be preferred for the

Gotta keep the 3 minions happy

Stock power with stock brakes gave me no confidence, so I know where you're coming from. Still got the shudder or they fixed it? Definitely RDA's on it now? https://www.google.com.au/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHMD_enAU557AU557&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=rda%20warped If it's only for street duties the T2's should suffice (and be a fair bit cheaper) for decent rotors - the pads make more of a difference for stopping power than the discs. Would need to go bigger discs/calipers to get even more from it. Machining discs is a false economy from what I gather - better off not spending the cash and using it on new rotors that don't warp than temporarily fixing ones that will warp again. As I said in an earlier post on here - the brakes (or lack thereof) were the only thing that disappointed me with the car from stock. Sounds to me like the previous owner felt the same way, but lucked out trying to fix them (RDA's)

Shop agreed it was the rotors causing the shudder? You wouldn't be the first I've heard of who've had RDA's warp - makes it even harder when it wasn't you who bought them/had them installed

Do they have to work all weekend?

Awesome choice of car. I do agree with the others though - looks a lot tougher without the "extras" Will let you be the judge - can imagine that it does indeed look a lot better in person (pics look more like a 18yo got a stock XT and added some stickers/chev badges - no need to make an F6 look like that)

Audi passed it off to the Skoda section - they blamed the diff bushes and told me to correct the countersteering

Will call him next week and have a chat (unless he pops in here and says yay/nay or the sale ends)

For some reason Harrop bring to mind yellow calipers to me (was it their original colour?) If I see red I think Bembro, yellow I think Harrop - painted I think dodgy If I wanted them to be obvious I'd stick with the yellow - If I wanted them to blend in I'd go black or silver

My xcal isn't working with my ZX14

No probs - can't say I'm not tempted to get Don to pick one up for me before he heads over here - just trying to work out if they are exactly what I want, or just look like it because they're flavour of the month at the moment.

Still cleaning up the sh*t?

I think the link I posted for the other forum (might have been in Dons thread) mentions having to rotate the housing in the thread somewhere and something about the actuator as well. Stazza-Brendan has a fair few posts on here and there about fitting it all up http://fowww.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11381647&page=4 (for there) http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/user/37741-stazza-brendan/ (for here) (Hopefully posting other forum links is acceptable when it's for required info) edit: was a lot of info spread about over different forums and different threads - I know I read it somewhere, just not sure where

I think I read in another thread he's gotten the bug for laps at the race track Can't wait to see the differences in lap times