Pepster

I have been running United E85 In my FG turbo Since 2013 on 1000cc/min injectors, GTX3586, and Venom cat, dynoed @ 380rwkw on only 15psi due to a misfire. Currently run 18 psi and the injectors are maxed out @ probably 410rwkw. E85 is fantastic fuel. Issues: E85 will dissolve the glue in the stock fuel filter. I fitted a KPM stainless high flow filter , That gave more power. Cold starts can be a bithc ! I prime the fuel system with at least 3 Part key Turns b4 starting. You will need a very big pump.. I ran a single in tank Walbro 460 with a 16v booster and Pump died one 0° deg night, 20kms from home. Problem with these boosters, is that pumps have inertia , and my 5psi hobbs switch to trigger the voltage boost, did not get the pump upto speed fast enough causing a stumble, that I fixed using a push button pump boost, that I use a second b4 putting the boot in - messy. After the 460 died, I fitted the KPM twin Deusch 320 pumps in tank set up, this gave me much more power, and is good for 470rwkw On E85 according To KPM. 1000cc injectors are maxxed out now, I got bad advice and should have gone for 1500cc injectors. I have never tried 50:50 98:E85 mix, but this sound like a good Idea given my lowish boost, but I will need a nother map loaded to make the car start and idle properly.

I spoke to an ARB rep @ a 4x4 show 6months ago. He said they had already done one of their ARB air locker diffs for a ford drag racer. I asked if it was feasable for the air locker to be activated using boost pressure, the answer is no. Is recommended for stationary engagement, but low speed, no load is ok. Still, an air locker should stop the asre end shaking around and stepping out over bumps from the lights, on the street. I read a comprehensive review of the Trutrack, vs Detroit locker, vs ARB air locker for in an American 4x4 publication. The trutrack still allows differing left and right wheel speeds and is not considered the optimal solution for off road, but doesnt require input from the driver.

Thanks guys. I picked up the Autometer one today and fitted it just now - works fine. The only niggle was that it said 18V max, so I had to turn down my ignition voltage booster from 19V to 18V. All good - cheers.

yup. Use an OBD2 to Bluetooth converter. I this $10 eBay one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Mini-ELM327-V1-5-Bluetooth-OBD2-II-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android-OS-/191015708505?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c796c6759 or similar. And the excellent $4 Torquepro app for Android phones (not iOS) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque I use a window suction mount / arm for my phone, and have set up a bunch of custom 'gauges'. The OBD2 + TorquePro app combo will replace most gauges, including O2

I have been running a Turbosmart Eboost Street boost controller on my FG Turbo for a year now, but I have not yet hooked up the FGs tacho pulse wire to the boost controller. A RPM signal will allow the TS EBS to be adjusted with high RPM boost roll off compensation. Who can tell me which wire is the tacho RPM signal wire ? or, I may be forced to poke around with a scope until I find it :( chz.

I had braided lines fitted after only 2 weeks of owning my FGXR6T - I thought the stock brakes were terrible - like standing on a pile of marshmallows. Had Braided lines, extreme temp fluid and some good pads fitted, QFM A1RM, now replaced with Ferrodo DS) and the FGXR6T stops like it should of ex factory. Braided lines are a must.

After approx 10000kms, I just wore out a set of QFM A1RMs http://qfm.com.au/page/6/Performance_Range on the front (stock rotors), stock Ford pads and rotors on the rear. Braided lines all round. Verdict: About the A1RMs have same friction as the stockies when just warm, but as we all know, the stockies go away when hot, but you will be hard pressed to fade the A1RMs on the street or hills driving - I tried ! BTW, all FG owners need braided lines, the stock brakes are like standing on a pile of marshmellows, in comparison. Yep, QFM A1RMs squeal like a pig for the first couple of weeks then go quiet. Lots and lots and lots of dust ! May as well paint your wheels brake dust colour ! Also eat the disks a bit too - recommend them on cheaper rotors ! - unfortunately, there is no free lunch. BTW2, my brake specialist guy says that all rotors preform pretty much the same on the street. so given that performance pads eat the rotors, could be best to stick with the cheaper stock rotors. BTW4 - the stock Fg XR6T rotors are built like the DBA 4000 T3 rotors, just without the slots. note, the A1RMs are rated @ 780°C vs 550°C for the HPXs BTW3 - make sure you also get suitable extreme temp fluid if you are running your brakes this hot, I did. I have just ordered a set of Ferodo DS pads (front) and will fit them in the next few days - I expect them to perform much like the Bendix ultimate - ie, could have low friction when cold - I will know soon.