F6_Tornado

Sounds Like you got a Generic XR6T Map not F6 Generic map. The oil pressure light comes on when this happens.

I broke my with T1R Toyo tires changing into 4th BANG!!!!! Thought I was dead hahahhahah Toms broke when changing into 3rd with Slicks on and 530rwk at the drags. It’s near on impossible on most street tires to break the shaft unless they are real sticky or you have enough weight in the back to hold traction. I doubt you would ever break one by launching in first or second due to gear ratios but the higher gears and the torque is what hurts the shaft if you can get the tires to stick.

Each clutch pack has its own solenoid and the pack pressure is controlled by the Mechatronik, so IF you have the software and tooling yes you can manipulate the downstream pressure of each pack for a given situation. You could put a resister inline and fool it like the old piggy backs etc but may I ask Why? Hell with good packs installed in them and a fist full of Torque you can screw the input shaft clean out when changing gears so imagine what would happen if you went more plates and discs AND increased the clutch pressures? BANG even sooner. It’s my opinion you don’t even try it unless you have a trailer load of shafts to throw away. The individual clutch pressures are changing all the time depending on your mode selection and driving habits. This pressure varies wildly. It’s not like an old box where you simply crank the line pressure and stiffen the shifts.

If it requires 16 ltr to flush it needs more than a service ahhahaha Look what usually happens is the small filter intergrated into the sump gets blocked with worn clutch material and needs changing. The oil becomes discolored in two ways one from the clutch material and one from a bit of heat from the slipping clutches. In actual fact when your at your stage any more than a filter chance is a waste as it will need more than that shortly. IF it was mine I wouldn’t even consider putting the genuine oil back in! But hey it’s not my Car. Most guys are getting a second wind by no more than a filter change and changing to TransmaxZ… after that its time for new clutch plates and preferably add a few extras.. You talk about line pressure!!! Well clutch pack capacity is dependant on (Force over Area). Increase the area will achieve the same result! As for Costs>>> you need to speak to your local transmission expert and hope he doesn’t screw you. I can beef up my own clutch pack for ½ the cost of your service but I’m a Mechanical Engineer so I only pay for parts. If you have it apart do yourself a favor and replace the input shaft at the same time. Cost an extra $400 but well worth it.

Oh Ok!!! Mines fine and so are the others I beefed up with one running 540rwks. I had a manual F6 and would not go back to it now after owning the ZF and I run @ 360rwks now and from the day I bought it I run 330rwks. If you want to run 300 or above get it upgraded…. Bit drastic changing over to a manual ahhahaha. The filter is about $150~$200 depending on who you buy from and the oil is @ $250 for genuine >> 8ltr so your labor cost is HIGH Personally I would not use genuine oil again and since changing to Castrol TransmaxZ everyone I know finds it great.

Is the gauge plumbed into the In or out side of the Cooler? Big difference in PSI

Too many Crows over there

I do mine and a few mates myself and its cheap as chips but I know if you send it out it will cost. To do A,B & E packs with more plates and disc shouldnt cost any more than $500 but a trans shop will charge 5 times that as they will need to warrant it to some degree.

There is supposed to be and it should be done when it’s at running temp but I personally haven’t had any dramas. Remove the filler plug (right hand side rear just above the Sump line) 8mm Allen key. Fill till flowing out the fill hole and start the engine, continue to fill with engine running until the oil flows out the fill hole again, Move the selector though all the gear and re check and make sure it’s still level with the fill hole. Put the fill plug back in the transmission before turning the engine off. MotoSpec sell both genuine and aftermarket sumps last time I checked but the later steel ones are/were only available to Motspec genuine. That may have changed. The steel ones are good as once you change you then only need buy the filter not the whole sump. However the steel sump doesn’t have a drain plug and that P!sses me off so I modified a Plastic sump to take a later disposable filter. I put some pics on FF. If you change to Castrol TransmxZ you will void warranty but once you add any mods you will void warranty anyways so everyone I know now runs with TransmaxZ The trans holds some 8.5ltr including the cooler but you cant drain that all out and usually about 4 ltr is all you can drain at one time. Best thing to do is do it 2 or three times with about 15ltr and this will flush it out nice. TransmaxZ is about $220.00 for 20ltr. Genuine ZF oil direct from ZF at trade is $550.00 for 20 ltr. If you’re only running @ 300rwks just buy an aftermarket Pan/filter and some TransmaxZ oil and see how she goes. If you’re over 320rwkws then you will need more than a filter and Oil ahhahahahahah

I dont think So!!!!

Would be nice if it was as simple as making a new billeted shaft on a CNC machine! But it’s sadly not that simple. The input shaft is part of the first planetary set and it’s integrated into the E clutch pack so another word’s it’s not just a simple shaft that we can beef up. It also goes back through B & A Clutches, the trans/converter pump and then into the converter so very little room to fatten it up @ its entire length. It’s actually very well made and the fact it twists to some degree before fracture is a good sign it has some ductility. If it was too hard or to highly stressed it would fracture without any deformation whatsoever. What we need to do is increase its ductility without making it any harder. So it’s more ductile so as to be able to flex without fatigue, Deformation or fracture. Not so easy considering the size and shape of it but we need to do something with the HP cars now the clutches can take it.

It wont @ or around 400 its got a chance but with the HP Tom had it was on death row! Tom went for broke on the day and it snapped and that was his day then and there! he could have run a 10 with a 100 less rwkws but when chasing records people go hard and it sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t.

Not so reliable at 380rwks in std form. However with some minor clutch work and good oil changed frequently it will be OK. Any more and it will not last to long and after the clutch work the next weakest link is the Input shaft which will snap in time. There was supposed to be a aftermarket input shaft but that has turned out to be frog sh!t and at present the only input shafts are genuine heat treated and stress relieved which are still breaking. As Toms did on Monday albeit it had way to much rwkws for what he needed to do on the day. Remembering this is a 650nm box and most on this forum are running 800nm and UP!! Bloody good transmission if you asked me.

I think the quad tips need some cleaning.... I prefer them as far apart as possible and had to get these custom made.

Why? I had the Ba Tornado with the Flat one then I bought a BF Tornado and it came with the Bulge and its heaps better. Also on the flat one they had a two legged wing which cracks every 12 months and is useless. The BF’s have the three legged wing and the bulge and it will never crack with the extra support in the middle. My Pursuit Ute before that had the flat one and I did 3 wings in that then sold it to my brother who cracked the wing in the first two months he had it so Stuff the old flat ones!!! Besides mine being in Yellow and with the Hump it looks just like a Camel (nicknamed the Camel) and that live rear axle works great in a straight line with my HP. If I wanted comfort id Drive the wife’s F6 Typhoon. Ute is a work vehicle and weekend toy so it’s OK. Besides IRS on the Holden’s stuffs Tires like no ones business (with weight in the back) and if you run expensive low profile tires and lots of HP the last thing you want is Tire wear from IRS. Each to their own I suppose? I would say the hump does obstruct some rear view which takes a bit to get used to if you rely on your center rearview mirror.

Far-Out...change to 98 ASAP

Here is a picture of Youngy’s input shaft and you can see the twist in it. Look at the Bar-Code… About the same as mine before it snapped!!!

More of the same and I run an extra 30rwks now so it looks to be better, touch wood! The other new shafts I've put in mates boxs are fine and not one broken so its "better" how much I wont know untill we break or twist another one. As for when the later shafts were in vehicle production I have no idea.

Nope. Not untill I can be 100% sure the input shaft is strong enough to cope or BANG another one !!!! Being individual clutch modulation it is easy to attack each one but not just yet. Actually just did Youngy's ZF today and put 7 Discs and plates in B pack and 8 in E so see how that goes with 400+++ Rwks .. Youngy will give it a workout and some!!!!

ZF won’t admit to the shaft problem or a new heat treated one they NOW sell. Simply buy a new input shaft (1068 271 097) and compare. $360.00 I doubt Kewish are doing anything to the shafts apart from buying the latest heat treated one. The “E” clutch pack (4th, 5th, and 6th gears) is the weakest link and you can increase the number of Frictions Discs and plates from 6 to eight which is cheap as chips. I actually increase the Friction discs in mine in “A’ ‘B’ & ‘E” packs>>>>> 6, 6 & 8 respectively. From 5, 5 and 6.

SLAP!!! Woger Cordia would beat that with his eyes! closed or was that with his pants down?

If cost is no option then the Phoon AP Clutch is the Go. Ben and I both run ours many times down the Plex (Both well over 300~350rwks) and never had a drama. Simon runs his phoon AP clutch with ceramic plates at over 500RWkws! and the pedal is great. Anyone including your grandmother could drive it. I saw Brendons twin plate that he got from the wog and its very well made also but you would have to ask him how it goes when you sidestep it @ 4,500rpm. The good thing with the Phoon clutch is you only need to depress the pedal 1” when changing. Great for quick changes like Ben has shown. Everyone I now with a MW clutch complain about a stiff pedal and shuddering.

Is that using Sniper software or the SCT/Capa box?

Fertilizer run off into the dams can kill so select the dams carefully. The dams I breed in have no run off and the water comes from underground streams. WA QLD doesn’t matter so much as my sister put yabbies in her Dam on the QLD NSW border but she also thought it would be nice to have Turtles in her Dam DOH they eat the lot.. Then she found she had Eels in there so she gave up. I think there is another type you can breed in QLD called the Red Claw? Not sure but doubt you will have any joy with Marron

The main thing you will need is a 410 shotgun to KILL the bloody shags Apart from that all you need is some muddy water and some Yabbies. Or Cheripin (spelling) or Maron! Yabbies breed 3 times a year where Maron breed once. Yabbies grow to @ 120 where Maron can grow to over 300mm. Yabbies will live in the mud even if the water dries up so almost impossible to fail with Yabbies. Enjoy as they are all great eating Goldie.