markxr6t

Nice python carty! Make sure there's no gaps in your enclosure. Small holes are fine, but they can flatten out and squeeze through gaps of only a few mm - which is probably what happened last time. Our Stimson's Python (My boy called him Stanley) is a great pet - low maintenance, keep his water topped up, feed once a week (goes 6 weeks without eating leading up to a shed or slough), crap once a week, regulates his own temperature with a heat mat in the corner of the enclosure and provides hours of fascination. Here's a pic of Stanley gutsing an adult mouse. He's about 60cm long and his neck is about as thin as a pencil. I feel like 'm watching Discovery Channel every time I watch him feed! Enjoy! Mark

I just bought a Giant Boulder and couldn't be happier. Its a joy to ride with smooth gears, a comfy seat and tough enough for mild trails.

I look forward to your latest video after your new 6 speed is fitted, Kieran.

Not being a smart arse - a genuine question: Why do Top Fuel dragsters use only mineral oil? My understanding is that whilst synthetic oils are undoubtedly better (and true synthetics are quite rare - most are formulated from mineral bases) their true benefits are only seen when their polymers or whatever remain stable at extreme temperatures for long periods such as seen in jet turbines. My opinion based on no scientific fact whatsoever is that 5-7000km oil changes with a good mineral or semi synthetic will not show any more wear than a full synthetic over 160 000kms in an XR6T which (lets face it) doesn't have extremely fine tolerances. A good mineral oil is not exposed to the extremes which break down its lubricating properties in our cars and its at these extremes where the synthetic benefits start to prevail. Speaking of extremes, if mineral oil is good enough for a Top Fueler, its good enough for me.

Its April 06 I believe. Apparently the Ford part number for the F6 and XR6T short motor is identical from April 06 onwards. I believe Ninka bought one of these for his rebuild and, sure enough, the rods were F6 rods. Ring a Ford dealer and check - then let us know what they say.

Thanks Mal - given that I just bought it to get me by between XR6Ts, I'm surprised how much I like the thing. Fantastic effortless, loping torque off idle with a screaming V8 banshee wail up top. Noice.

Don't forget to account for $35-$40k interest and meeting commitments with possible unexpected delays over the course of the project.

50% CGT discount applies after 12 months. There is no CGT on your Principal Place of residence full stop (you don't have to live in it for a year). At the end of the day CGT is actually the lowest form of "income tax" you can pay ie 50% of profits are added onto you income for that year. If its in 2 names its split in half again so its most likely you'll stay within the 30% bracket. R30 zoning on 750 sq metres means you could comfortably go for 2 green title blocks (ie avoid strata titles, strata survey or "duplex"). Unless you're a builder here's what I'd do: 1. Buy the block 2. Subdivide into 2 green titles ($15-$40k, depending on location of sewer connection). 3. Sell 1 green title block - ideally 1 year after it was on its own title. Perth's market is driven by an artificial land shortage. Everyone wants to build a new house on their own block - hence vacant land sells at a premium. 4. Build on the other one to live in (which will remain CGT exempt) or sell it as well, quit your debt and have a healthy deposit to buy elsewhere. A rough rule of thumb (and you'll find that most "duplex" blocks are priced accordingly) is that you'll make $50k out of subdivision and little or no more if you build a house on it (unless you're a builder). I've done it a few times, if you want me to show you the process I'm happy to. Mark

Oh - and its nice not having to drive the Kombi in the background to work in peak hour traffic every day!

Thanks guys - more positive comments than I expected. I paid around $14k for it and it has 124000km and drives almost like new (aside from some standard Ford Ttransmission clunks), so I couldn't resist the value. No mods and I won't mod it. I think 220kw is about as much as Tickford could squeeze out of these without losing driveability so they're already in a high state of tune. Spending more wouldn't give much kw per $. I don't think I'll ever match the kw per $ that an edit gives a T. Luke - Range Rovers are great mate! that's a very straight example - is it an 88 or 89 Vogue or Highline? There's a huge enthusiast base, parts are readily available (and often required), they're actually cheaper to fix than most Nissans and Toyotas and they've got a built in external oil level gauge (ie when they stop leaking you know they're empty!). Oh and unmatched off road - they were way ahead of their time.

Hi all Some would know I sold my BA XR6T in December and want to get a BF XR6T. Since they're still a bit costly for me, I got this to get me by for the year: 2001 AU2 XR8 220kw auto. I've always loved the hand built Tickford motors and think the signature plaque of the engine builder on the rocker cover is a nice touch. Its a sweet, sweet motor, makes all the right V8 sounds (glorious note over 5000revs) and goes well (not as well as the T of course). Overall - a very satisfying car. Also, as Luke said on Sunday's cruise I kind of like the fact that its one of last iterations of a Tickford car. I know there's a few AU haters out there, but at least I know Turbo6man won't bag me. Some pics:

Good fun again. Just confirmed to myself that I'm definitely between Ts. Brekkie was great too - though I couldn't eat for the rest of the day after finally getting some of those pancakes! Thanks Alan, Steve and other organising parties.

I had this problem with my ED XR6 - it started beeping when I was behind a few Rebels bikies at a red light - most embarassing. That was a problem with the copper contacts under the rubber bit in the steering centre - they were too close together. I just bent them back so that they werent so close, but I had to push my horn much harder.

Well Steve, as the resident tight arse, I only spend money on cars when: 1. They need fixing 2. The increase in performance per $ is significant (eg edit) 3. To keep the Full Service History. You have a car you enjoy driving. Why spend more? Ive put off buying a BF until they drop closer to $30k and then Ill edit and maybe injectors straight away. You sort of nailed it when you said you were happy with the performance. Just get a custom tune to make sure all is safe and T5 friendly and ride out your lease with your residual profit at the end. Justy my humble opinion. Mark

Thanks for your comments As a Perth boy, I never thought I'd see the day where Sydney property looked reasonable, Brisbane good value and Melbourne downright cheap!

Hi All Since Jimmy is asking for your opinions, I will too. I'm ready to buy another investment property and can't bring myself to pay the ridiculous Perth prices. As I look at property for sale around Australia I can see value in Brisbane and Melbourne, with Melbourne being my preference. I'm flying over on the 17th March to have a look and will definitely get something. I'm considering Frankston (urban renewal, railway etc..) and surrounding areas, further down the Mornigton Peninsula around Rosebud (retiring baby boomers, close to beach, good size blocks). It seems that for $250k I can get something in these areas that will rent for over $200 which seems like good value. Alternatively, I thought about going South West of Melbourne in the new areas around Point Cook (20ks from City, newish houses, $320k for $280pw rent). Whats in between? Am I neglecting anything? AM I missing something? Is there anything dodgy about the places I've mentioned? All comments and opinions welcome. Many Thanks Mark

I bought my first property at 21 and made some mistakes - all of which I've learnt from. My humble views: 1. You can learn as much or more from people like BCL (nice advice, Brian) as you can from a Financial Planner. Some financial planners should be called "financial product salesman" (sorry if I cause offence to the FPs here, but every time I see an FP, they just try and sell me managed funds). 2. Similarly, its hard to get good professional advice on property as most people there also have a vested interest. 3. You've got the right idea by wanting to talk to lots of people. Also read books, investment magazines and speak to successful investors who aren't trying to sell you anything. 4. Find out what sort of investor you are. You are unique and different to others. eg I'm just useless at speculative shares - I never know when to sell and now realise I'm just a buy and hold investor. 5 Like BCL mentioned, investing is a journey where you start off worrying about borrowing $200k and end up seeing that $200k as only $16k a year with income that reduces that anyway. Good luck mate, you're in a fortunate position to set your life up. Make sure you enjoy yourself along the way (having a T is a good start!) The fact you're already putting so much thought into it guarantees your success as long as you don't put it all into high risk investments. Mark

You should work for Ford! that's a better paint job than some real ones I've seen....

I had Federal SS 595s for $150 a corner and they gripped and lasted better than the OEM Dunlops. I'd get them again.

A matter of time before your T5 goes crunch, Steve. At least your replacement T56 will be a "running cost" through your novated lease! And then you'll run a 12 with the way you peddle a manual.....

In Wheels defence, the COTY award is based on criteria which awards cars for fulfilling their design parameter, which is why we have seen the MX-5 win (design parameter - nimble sportscar), Benz S Class (design Parameter $ luxury) and Commodore / Falcon (design parameter budget family/ performance) I've driven a VE SS and it is a generation ahead of the BF (as it should be) in the same way the BA made the the VY feel like an old car. The VE was great - I couldn't fault it, but it didn't do it for me like 4 litres plus boost does, hence my next performance car will be a BF T I reckon we're spoilt in Australia where we make the best value, best performing and best handling family / performance cars in the world. Did you know the yanks can't even get the LS engine in a 4 door? They'd kill for our range of performance cars and the Saudis know this as 4 times more Aussie built Statesman's sell there than here. That Ford and Expensive Daewoo build such great cars on such small development budgets is amazing. I prefer Fords over Holdens, but give Wheels and Expensive Daewoo a break. Enjoy and relish the Australian car industry whilst we still have one. Just my 20c worth Mark

Some mixed messages going on here. I just rang CAPA, spoke to Brodie and described that I had sold my car with the tune still in it but still had my Flasher which I wanted to keep for my next car. He said $75 to unlock it and $75 to add a new tune. I asked again for full clarification describing all that's said on this thread and he said "it definitely doesn't have to go back to SCT" He even said if I can find the guy who I sold the car to and put my factory tune back in that'll save me $75. (Not hundreds) That's straight from the (CAPA) horses mouth. Go figure

Whoops I'm up creek then. I sold my car with the tune still in it thinking I'd take my flasher to my BF when I get it. I thought I'd just used one of my 5 lives How much for SCT to reset it?

I'll cruise, but I haven't got a T. Can I please be a passenger in your car Zman? I made an offer on a BF just before New Year but the dealer hasn't rang me back so perhaps they weren't lying when they said that my offer was below cost! I might wait til some low Km BFs come through auctions. My New Year resolutions are to weigh less than 100kgs (same as every year) and to have a 12 second street car. Welcome back Steve

I drove a VE SS a few weeks ago to see if it was enough to turn me to the dark side. It was great and I couldn't fault it. However it didn't make me smile as much as my T did (8 psi generic edit) and didn't have anywhere near the mid range brought on by the turbo rush. Maybe the VE SS would beat my T over the quarter (I never cracked a 13) but its performance is linear which just doesn't light my wick like 4.0 litres + forced induction does. And for me its whatever makes me smile the most so my next performance car will be a BF + edit and I'll no doubt still do crappy quarter times in it!