markxr6t

Re: The topic Past and previous rides below Mark

If you're not worried about durability (and I don't think you can have both grip and durability) as a starting point, make sure that the traction rating on the sidewall is AA or better. I'm not sure if you can get AAA traction rating but if you can - buy them. The standard dunlops have a AA traction rating and grip OK. I put some A traction rated tyres on the rear and the difference was frightening. Slid all over the shop! I'm no expert, but I'm led to believe (and have experienced) that the softer a tyre compound is the better the grip. Use your fingers - if a tyre's tread is rock hard and has no give, its built to be durable and may grip better when hot. If you can stick your fingernail into it and it has some give, its a softer compound and should grip better. Kind of makes sense, I think. Otherwise, check out what Porsche 911s, BMW M3s and others use as standard equipment - they don't skimp and have tyres to match their chassis. Mark Mark

Another one for the register: Mark Wirtz Another Blueprint (T5 manual) wirtz@wn.com.au

A few times during the cruise I thought it was the "Team WA Blueprint / Shockwave / Narooma XR6T Cruise". 50% Blue!

Heres a photo. The cruise was fun. I would have liked to chatted to a few more of you. I only really chatted to 4 or 5 guys whose names and cars I can link to their forum name. Which means we'll have to do something again soon. How's a Wednesday night at Motorplex in a few weeks sound? Mark

I'll be there. My wife thinks I'm a nerd meeting up with other T owners through a forum but she just doesn't get it!! Mark

Yep - I'll have one please Eugene. Pm me your bank details when they arrive and we'll go from there. Have to go and retract my bid on ebay now! Mark

JB, the ratios chosen for the new T56 can be described as 'close ratio'... when compared to T5 ratios and other T56 ratios that are available (I.e that could have been chosen by Ford). The comparative ratio changes are: 1.49 I.e 2.66/1.78 1.37 1.3 1.25 compared to the T5 which are: 1.52 1.45 1.34 1.37 .... so assuming the same gear change-up rev points, the revs will drop to progressively higher revs in the next gear up. The problem is that it does not shift, or at least I can't shift it, as fast as I would like, to date. Brian <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Valid Points Brian, and yes I think the major problem is speed of shifts, that's where the time is being lost <{POST_SNAPBACK}> So is there any evidence that a Herrod Sure-Shift (or other short shifting stick), combined with Transmax Z gear oil actually reduces shift time and therefore quarter mile time? I agree totally with slow shift times. 0-100 in a manualT happens so quick.......then you shift into 3rd. Mark

My BOV sound (at least I think that's what it is) is more of a "rattle rattle" with all windows up, and sounds like its coming straight out of the gear shift. In fact I even posted a topic earlier about my rattling box between gear changes Whoops. It definitely became louder after my XR8 snorkel / CAI was fitted. With windows down, it sounds like a "woofle woofle", coming from somewhere under the middle of the car. It happens every time I hit 4000 rpm or higher in 1st - 4th. Not an overly pleasant sound (I thought it was rattling synchros or clutch bearing - and maybe it is!), but better than the Pshhhhh! Mark

Ditto about the nightmare finding parking at Hillarys Marina on any day, let alone a Sunday. Further up the coast perhaps or I still like the York/Toodyay idea - twisty roads and not much traffic / parking hassles. Happy to go with whatever, though. Mark

I looked for about 4 months - private sales, dealers and auctions until I found exactly what I wanted. Got my manual 11/03 XR6T Blueprint with all the options I wanted (tint, tow, premium sound and roofbars) for $35 800 in October 04. Probably depreciated by $2k or more since - but that's life. Prior to this, I looked at and/or drove over a dozen Ts and this is what I learnt: Most were Ex Church vehicles (true). Apparently the Uniting Church and its affiliates bought a few hundred performance Fords on short term 15 000km leases. Because they're GST and Stamp Duty exempt + serious fleet discount, when they sell them (an Xr6t) for $34 or $35k, they're basically getting back what they paid for them. So beware priests in XR6Ts! Check the trip meter for l/100, hours and k's as it gives you some idea how its been driven. Most people don't bother resetting them on fleet cars. One was 17 l/100km and another was 12.4 l/100. Autos vary significantly between cars in how quick they feel. White XRs are harder to sell for dealers - so you can get them cheaper (I'd avoid ex police, though) Big Ford dealers detest having cars for more than 90 days - so play hard ball and don't be afraid to make an offer. Again, back in October 04 a dealer was willing to sell an 04 WWhite with 19000ks for $36500 when I know for a fact (because I missed out on them) that 2 similar private cars sold for more. There is such thing as a good price from a dealer. Best advice I can give? Patience. If you miss a bargain or great car, another one will come up soon. Since buying my T, I've seen a few which I would have bought instead. Cheaper too. Good luck Mark

Yep - I'm in.

Yep - my clutch slipped badly (hit the limiter in 2nd without much forward movement) on my 2nd ever run dow the strip. Hasn't happened on the road, but I'll still complain at my 30k service. Mark

..............you should have swung past Perth and you could have added an additional line to your signiture! You would have had no contest here from any T's as I have not seen one at the plex run even 12's yet! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah - you could visit a few strip clubs in Perth and make it a legitimate business expense / tax deduction. I think your car would even make the Nullarbour interesting Mark

Anyone want to suggest a date, time, and meeting point? Assuming its a weekend - day or night? Meet somewhere central to cater NOR and SOR people and cruise to where? Post your ideas and see if we can agree on something. (Could be a challenge, but majority rules) Mark

Hmmm - I can imagine a T5's response to flatshifting with a 10 psi edit..... I suppose the clutch would fry-up first.

Yep - I'm keen. Would have to work around family duties, though. Mark

Thanks JB - yeah I guess what I'm on about is that after my first runs down the quarter I wished I'd got an auto (first and only time). It seems its easier and cheaper (to modify) to run good times in an auto. It seems that to get a manual into 12s, more mods are needed than in an auto and much more driving and launching skill is also required. Do you think a T5 would survive in a car capable of 11s? APS's manual mule seemed to be standing up well (and $8k for a Tremec aint cheap.) At the moment I'm waiting for these Edits to be tried and tested. Still seem expensive for a bit of software but the market will decide? Anyway, if I end up with a piggyback or edit and reach the limit of my injectors at about 280 fwkw, hopefully I can get into 13s without frying my clutch. Then injectors and so it goes.... As more used Ts come on the market and out of leases, I think more aftermarket and mod stuff will become available, so the next few years will be interesting as XR6Ts become a viable alternative to some of the six cylinder turbo Jap imports. Time will tell. Mark

Thanks Adam My 14.9 was with a 60 foot of 2.6 seconds. On 2 runs where I either rode or dropped the clutch, the clutch slipped the whole way down the strip - I hit the limiter in 2nd without any forward progress (ie slipping clutch to 6000rpm) on 1 run - stink or what!. Its made me very wary of hard launches! Based on my 60 ft time the car should do 14.4 or 14.5 but I'm not sure if the driver's capable! Enjoy the beers! Mark

I've now resigned myself to the fact that I'm never going to have an 11 or 12 second stormer with a manual XR6t (and after a disappointing 14.9 in my first night at the strip). I was wondering how many quick manual T's are out there? I know JBs got one - but who else? It seems to me its hardly worth going beyond a piggyback or edit alone to up things to 280kw (at flywheel) and/or 8psi boost to drop into the 13s as more powerful manual Ts struggle to get below this anyway. Am I correct or just being a misery-guts? Other than not being able to launch or change gears quick enough - I love driving my car and I guess that's the main thing. Mark

Hmmm - sounds like a contract for a photocopier......

Nah - it happens whether I'm holding the gear knob or not. Thanks for the info. Anyone know what causes the gearbox "tizz"? Ben - could this mean my clutch is on its way out? Regardless, it sounds like I should give my dealer the pleasure of listening to it before the 30k service. Mark

Hi all, I've got an 11/03 manual XR6T with T5 and 22 000kms. When I bought it I noticed a rattling noise from beneath the shifter (surprise, surprise a driveline noise!) during gear changes when I'd revved above 4000rpm and it seems to be getting worse. It doesn't happen during gentle driving (ie, staying below 2500rpm) Its like a rattle as soon as I depress the clutch (synchros or a bearing - I dunno???) and happens between 1st and 2nd, 2nd and 3rd, 3rd and 4th and I guess between 4th and 5th as well. It will happen every time if I rev beyond 5000 and most times up to 3500 before depressing the clutch. I intend to report it at the 30 000km service but thought I'd try to arm myself with some knowledge first. Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas what it could be? I've driven another manual T which doesn't make the noise, so I'm not going to accept the "its normal" excuse from Ford. Thanks Mark

Looks fantastic - well done! One final addition - have you got a spare $7000 for that XR6T engine / trans on ebay??? Mark

Good on you guys - wish I was there. Any chance of a quick "summary post" on everyone's best times? Mark