markxr6t

Nice concept and another blue oval competitor to the LS1 / LS2 boys but I think you'd spend a lot more than you expect getting an XR8 to be as quick and tractable as Rumble. But life's all about setting goals and trying to achieve stuff (which you've already shown much potential at), so if that's what you want - do it! Mark

Combine it on the 9th, I reckon. Mark

I'm in - thanks Steve. Shootout sounds good. Mark

CAI is a cold air induction. Do it yourself for $30 - $100. There's heaps of threads on this forum about them - do a search. My clutch has slipped once and that was at the strip - it doesn't like being dropped and the very grippy surface meant the tyres didn't give, so the clutch did. Once it cooled it was fine and has been ever since. Ford says they don't cover clutches under warranty, but if its a manufacturing fault they will and I think there's examples of clutches having been replaced on this forum. I like driving manuals too and I'm happy with my choice. Mark

Hey driftin I'm in Perth and have a Mk I manual XR6t. I bought it in October last year for under $36000ks with 18 000kms on the clock. You're certainly in the ball park and should get a very good Mk I for $35k. Try Ford Dealers, Pickles Auctions (that's where I got mine) and offer private people less than what they're asking as it will still be more than what a dealer will give them. I've had no problems with it and if you're not looking to modify it too much the T5 manual is fine. The clutch is the fuse (other than the tyres) and will slip before you damage your box. You get used to the box and XXXR6T ran a 13.8 in his with just a CAI. Test drive a few and buy the one that makes you smile the most. Good luck Mark

Hi Chris Awkward one, but I think Aniken is right. Incidents like these are why I currently don't use accountants - I'd rather learn it myself since I'm ultimately responsible, regardless of my accountant. I got sick of reminding them of things they'd forgotten. Now I just use the ATOs e-tax software and if neccesary borrow the Master Tax Guide from the library. Its not rocket science - even if you run your own business- and all the information available to accountants is available to you. The most time consuming part is getting all my documents in order (which I would have to do anyway). All that many accountants do, as in your case, is input the information - sometimes without considering the implications. I liken it to servicing your own car. No one is ever going to take as much care or interest in your own affairs as you are. Good luck with it, but the ATO acts very much on pay now and complain later principles. Mark

Onya Zap! Congratulations. It brings back memories of having 3 kids under 4! Lucky you've got the best family car available! Mark

Awesome Effort Geea. Congratulations. Even more impressive is that you're an individual who doesn't own a performance shop and have continually improved to get what you are. In effect and to quote a song, you "did it your way". Very, very impressive! Mark

Check this out - interesting test on oils. http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml Mark

I'm with RAC in WA - only $650 a year! You can access AAMI through WA as they underwrite (or same company - different brand as) Just Car and Shannons.

Unichip by itself gave an APS car a 13.6 quarter in June 2003 Motor. A well tuned edit only may therefore improve on this by a couple tenths though I'm yet to see a concrete answer to your question. I'm interested in real life examples too as I'm considering an edit only (don't want to grenade my T5) and would hope for easy consistent mid 13s. Mark

Great Photo! Awesome effect for $12.95 from Supercheap!

I wouldn't have an XR6T if it wasn't for novated leasing. I comfortably do over 25 000kms anyway (and its still viable for 15000 - 24999 on cheaper cars under $20 000). So if you were going to finance a car anyway and you'll do over 25000km, then its a no brainer. The "Employee Contribution Method - ECM means it still works if you're in a lower income bracket as you can pay your FBT amount toward running costs in after tax dollars. When I factor in tax benefits and my residual being $8000 less than what I can sell the car for, total lease, rego, insurance and running costs for my t costs about $140 per week over 3 years in "real" dollars - meaning after tax dollars - and after selling at $7 - 8k more than residual. If you want me to post or PM the sums, let me know. Mark

An AU III XR8 (TE 50) or A Subaru Forester XT. Was actually shopping for a manual AU 220kw XR8, but kept getting mysteriously dragged towards XR6Ts. Worth blowing my budget for, but I do think the Windsors swansong in AUs were a fine car too. Mark

that's so true!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Nah - look around. I got mine in October last year for $35.5k (11/03 manual from Pickles in Balcatta, 18 000km). I looked at 2 others - an 03 and 04 at the same time which both sold under $36k. Prices are even lower now and If I didn't love my car so much, I'd curse that I could have got one cheaper. Centre Ford and friends (Titan, Midway, Range) regularly advertise XR6Ts for $33 or $34k, and that even includes 04 models. IMO $33k or less will get you a very good T in Perth. Mark

The Mother's Day thing is really hard for me to get around - my wife has organised a family lunch at our house so my escape is unlikely. If a route map is posted, I may be able to disappear as soon as it passes for being polite. Sorry Mark

Just to close this thread, I've just noticed that McInerney's motto is: "Twice the Dealer - Twice the Service" I seriously think they should be honest - and change it to: "Twice the Dealer - Twice the Service - Twice the Price" !!! Mark

Hi Seems to be lots of people who have had new diffs under warranty. Mine is on order, along with a RH half shaft (axle I suppose). My driveline clunk is bad, even embarrassing at low speeds and carparks when combined with the rough idle. I also have a mild but annoying taxi like diff whine at 60km/hr in 4th and 95 km /hr in 5th. I can actually live with this, but the clunk has got to go. My questions is: Will the new diff fix the clunking or is that what the new RH axle is for? My fear is that the new diff will whine more than my old one - as seems to have happenned to many others. Could some people who have had good replacement diffs also post to balance things out. (It seems there's plenty that haven't!) Thanks Mark

Sorry to go on, but latest update is that the brake adjustment I paid $100 for (which everyone else seemed to have got fixed under warranty) didn't work. Just noticed up my driveway yesterday the familiar "shh, shh, shh" sound from the rear again. Oh well - more phone calls tomorrow. Not only did I get bad service - I paid too much for bad service! Mark

Lets face it - Australia makes the best value 4 door muscle cars on the planet. (Mustangs and Corvettes and Monaros are good value in the US) I have had bad service, warranty issues and poor build quality, but what else can I buy for the price which will do 0-100 in 6 seconds transport my wife and 3 kids and our luggage in comfort and safety and tow a trailer or boat when necessary? Of well built cars, Japanes cars aren't as spacious and the Germans are unaffordable. So yes - I'd buy another T. I love it. My other car is an 03 Forester. If my T was built as well the Forester, it'd be perfect - hence my shortlist included a Forester XT - but not quite the smile factor of the T. Dealer Service? Call me a cynic, but many dealers of all makes will rip you off wherever they can. Mark

Yeah thanks Lightning. I actually addressed my email to the General Manager and Operations Manager (the Service Manager's Boss). The Operations Manager replied. I think they're quite happy to risk losing me as a customer as opposed to satisfy me. They've got a diff and axle on order under warranty so I will be seeing them again soon. In my email I said I would happily take reimbursement or credit (so they can rip me off again) for my next service of $200 as I always like to offer the solution which will make me happy. But to no avail. What have I learnt? 1. If you really want the Ford Dealer stamp in your log book, supply your own oil, get quotes and demand they stick to it. 2. Instruct them to only fix or maintain warranty items (ie no cost). Under no circumstance are they to touch or charge extra for anything without your permission. 3. If things need fixing, go to your trusted local mechanic where you can talk to the guy who does the work. Given I've paid double what everyone else has, its a $200 lesson - but that's a cheap lesson for the caution I'll now show for all future dealer servicing. Mark

Well - I got my response. Apparently they specifically ordered in Magnatec because my windscreen sticker said I used it. 1 unit was 5 litres, so 2 units was 10 litres. The reply email informed me that there was 3 litres of Magnatec in my boot (and there was). Nobody could tell me any of this when I picked the car up. Here's a couple of the more interesting quotes from the reply email: "Thankyou for the e-mail, your feed back is important to us ." "Our Labour Rate per hour is at $80.90 plus GST, one off the cheapest within the Ford dealer network" "With regards to the charges incurred for adjusting the handbrake, charges will only be accepted by Ford if a failure or malfunction had occurred, otherwise adjustments are considered maintenance." "In closing I found the invoice to be costed correctly with the exception of the misunderstanding with the pyroil additives. I hope this explanation clarifies the issues you have raised. Please be assured that you are a valued customer of McInerney Ford and we do strive to provide you with Premium Service." So there we go. I got done. I just replied (and provided a link to this thread) saying that I feel like I've paid the highest price ever for a 30000km service. Next time - I'll get quotes beforehand and specify that other than service items, they only touch warranty items. Thanks for your replies (and the constant reminder of how badly I've been toasted - and yes Hypnodoc - McInerney Ford it is) Mark

Yep - big bikkies indeed. Thanks for all your responses - I have been ripped off! I've sent the service manager and GM an email ncluding a link to this thread. If they come to the party, I'll let you all know. Thanks Mark

The dash crack happens on a hot day just after starting, when air con is on full and seems to come from the driver's side A Pillar. The fast cooling seems to cause it and going over bumps makes it worse. Only for the first 10 -15 mins of driving, but its loud and annoying.

Hi all, Just had my T's 30000km service at a Ford Dealer in Morley WA + the usual warranty list of scraping rear brakes, clunking and whining diff, steering shudder and cracking sound from dash. Nearly choked when I got the bill for $446.75! Itemised as follows - GST added at end: 30k service labour = 161.80 Adjust dragging handbrake labour = 80.90 (shouldn't this be warranty?) Oil Filter = $10.33 "2 units" of Castrol Magnatec = 89.12 Consumables and Environmental Compliance = $14.00 Coolant top up = $12.50 Pyroil Additives = $41.50 Add GST of $40.61 for a total of $446.75. I complained about the additives and said the owners manual says not to use them, I wasn't asked about them and I don't want them. They quickly refunded the $41.50 (maybe they know they're a rip off?) I asked what 1 unit of Oil was - they couldn't tell me (oh - we get it in drums), but $100 inc GST for 7 litres of Magnatec? WTF??? I'm going to let them know my feelings and was wondering what others have paid for a 30000km service. I feel it should have been about half of what I paid. The workshop manual says its only a "Service A" - 1 hr 12 mins + 50 odd minutes to tighten manifolds plus oil and filter. Should the brake (shh, shhh) adjustment have been covered under warranty? Would like to know your experiences and what you paid. Very tempted to find a good workshop and only go to dealer for warranty work.... Thanks Mark P.S. New diff on order, new RH axle and 1 tyre is cracking.