markxr6t

Onya Steve! Can we also have a prize for the dirtiest XR please?

Good idea - let me know how you go and whether or not you agree with my thoughts. Just make sure you get the latest CAPA tunes. Mark

Hi Jack (ha ha gettit?) With 10psi edit only you can floor it in first and get mass wheel spin which will continue in to second. If, for example, you are coming out of a roundabout in 2nd, straighten up (into a 90 zone, of course) and you floor it you will skip sideways for a few metres down the road (nothing too scary), traction control light will come on and you'll sail off into the distance like you're on jelly rubber. Same roundabout, same tyres, same exit speed without edit is a minor scrabble of the tyres with no loss of grip. If I had more power in the above scenario, I wouldn't be able to floor it and for my kind of driving, I think "whats the point?". But that's just me. So- short answers to your questions - 1st is mass wheel spin but still controllable and 2nd @ 3000rpm is definite loss of traction but controllable and fun. Enjoy! Mark

Also interesting to consider Capa's level of responsibility with their generic tunes. Like you, I believe if you play you pay and can't be stuffed arguing with disinterested Ford dealers anyway. But what if someone said "CAPA's generic tune wrecked my engine"?

I think there's more to it than 4th in a manual is 1:1 and 3rd in an auto is 1: 1. One to One is a generic and loosely used term. A quick look at some Wheels mags shows: BA Mk1 5spd Manual XR6T in 4th gear @ 6000rpm = 203 km/hr BA Mk 2 6 spd Manual Xr6T in 4th gear @6000rpm = 187.2 km/hr Ba Mk 2 6 spd Manual Xr6T in 5th gear @6000rpm = 234 km/hr BA Typhoon 6spd Manual in 4th Gear @6000rpm = 191 km/hr BA Typhhon 6spd Manual in 5th gear @ 6000 rpm = 238km /hr BF Typhoon 6spd auto in 4th @6000rpm = 238km/hr Couldn't find data for 4 speed autos. I think gear ratios, diff ratios and tyres all add their little discrepancies to the final drive. Turbo6man always seems to know lots about this kind of stuff..... Mark

Here's my advice (from another cautious T5 driver). 1. Buy the edit. Make sure - check and double check- you have the latest CAPA tunes. Try the 8psi. Say "Wow". Try the 10psi. Say "Faaaarrrrk". 2. If your engine seems to miss badly, regap your plugs to 0.8mm 3. If this doesn't do it for you (it does it for me) get a custom tune. 4. If you look at the Mal Wood sponsored forum, Ben gives excellent advice on driving with T5s in modded T's. High torque kills T5s, so don't lug and feel free to use revs. ie WOT at 3500rpm in 2nd is better than 2000rpm in 3rd. Where possible, find friction point before releasing clutch. 5. If valve springs cause a problem, try getting a high flow cat first (or gut your current one) as the reduction in back pressure will reduce valve spring problems. I wouldn't worry about valve springs as I rarely rev to 6000rpm on the street and I only get issues after 5000rpm. 6. Personally, I wouldn't bother with injectors because they will allow you to easily go beyond 250 rwkw and this is high risk territory for T5s. I think you'll enjoy 10psi or Custom edit only, re-gapped plugs and cat de-restriction. I certainly do (cat pending). I easily lose traction in 2nd and fun in 3rd is lose licence territory. that's fine for me. Good luck Mark

Wow - great results from minor mods. Thems some steep curves! I don't claim to be any dyno seer but it looks to me like there's little point revving beyond 5000rpm, let alone 6000???? I look forward to the Tornado showdown.

www.privatefleet.com.au guarantees the best price (including their fee) or your money back. Havent used them myself, but looks like you've got nothing to lose.

With my 10 psi capa edit, my clutch seems to be holding out fine. Has slipped a bit at the strip, but no worse than stock and due to poor launches more than anything. Funny though, if I floor it at 3000rpm in 3rd, I thought my clutch was slipping (ie sound of increased revs was not resulting in increased acceleration) but I have since discovered its actually the much louder turbo whistle - not revs. So no, my clutch doesn't slip. Mind you, I think I'm much easier on my car than many here.

Steve and Kieran - you're cracking your gearstick boots because you're changing gears too fast! that's what you get for sub 14 second quarters in standard Ts with T5s! I think my boot will last for ever! Got some Transmax Z at home - just have to put it in. Sounds like its well worth it.

Getting an edit is the quickest way to fix your problem, Steve.

My Ford dealer wasn't interested when I identified my split tyres. Makes no difference to performance or durability - I still got 50 000kms out of them. Wear them out - if you get new ones you have to wait longer to get better tyres. I just can't be stuffed having to push and fight for warranty claims.

Especially not those pictures I saw of her on the internet <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You saw those pics huh? Do you like what I did with my room? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry Steve did'nt see those pictures but as for your room, Markxr6t was telling me how impressed he was with it, especially the falic use of the model fuselages. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ther paisley wallpaper in your room is pretty impressive too jordak!

Was that the one at WA Auto Auctions last week? A mate went to bid last Wednesday, but it got pulled out at the last minute. Welcome Cam - Nice Car.

I'm a definite maybe

13.1litres per 100km for the last 10000kms with 8 and 10psi Capa tunes.

Nah - don't do your dough - just keep going with warranty claims until everything is perfect. Otherwise, you'll sell it to someone for a song who probably won't have any problems with it! You may be disappointed with some Euro cars as well - its the Japanese cars which really have their build quality under control these days. Mark

What fluid did they put in your 'box? Was it Transmax Z?

Only 1 person will ever know exactly what happened out there. Surely personal preservation rule number 1 has to be "don't try to beat the sh$t out of someone carrying a firearm" I was in Hedland in 99 when a loopy guy was shot dead on the highway by a copper after being confronted or attacked with a screwdriver. Said policeman hadn't done fireaems training and wasn't authorised to use one or something. Never heard what happened to him and we probably won't hear much about this fella either. If I was getting beaten up or attacked and had a gun I'd probably use it too, but I'm fairly sure I'd end up in the slammer. Its different when you do it in the line of duty which sometimes appears fair and sometimes doesn't.... And no one will ever really know on this one.

Love to hear how your new cat goes - please let me know. Thanks Mark

Hmm - think I might have valve spring probs too. To what extent does making exhaust freer flowing, with High Flow cat or whatever, reduce valve spring issues? Is it bad having valve springs which don't work properly at high rpm / power levels or does the PCM protect everything so that its just an annoyance? Mark

I'm running generic 10psi map also, with 2nd CAI and K&N. Haven't regapped plugs yet. Runs great when cool, but blows out spark at higher revs when warm. I can prevent this with gradual throttle application which is still plenty quick on the street. I will regap the plugs eventually. Over 5000rpm on WOT, I get a rumbling sound from the exhaust and rougher running, almost vibrating engine. I think it drops a cylinder - this could be valve springs? Just spoke with Geea who suggested that a freer flowing exhaust will reduce back pressure which in turn should lessen valve spring issues. Gutting your cat (not the animal) or getting a high flow cat makes the standard Ford exhaust much freer flowing. I also get a drop of revs and rough running when the temp gauge hits 1/4. Its always happened - even stock and seems to be a product of coming off the rich warm-up mix. Its soon gets over it and I just live with it.

Geez Steve - you have got too much spare time. How's the radar looking?

Wow - the T performed very well against some awesome machinery. I'm impressed!

My original 8 and 10 psi CAPA tunes wouldn't go above 5psi either with the 10 psi showing particularly ugly lines on a dyno graph. I assumed it was wastegate not allowing boost to climb as it wasn't leaking boost. After seeing the graph, Street Tuner kindly emailed the latest updates (tunes) to the place where I purchased the flasher from and its very much improved. Of course, a custom tune will fix it, but the latest CAPA tunes probably will as well. Mark