I JET

Wow. That's good power. How much boost?

Lol......I love this place

Congratulations. They are an awesome machine. I've owned a 2010 & 2012 S1000. The 2015 seems to be better yet again in every way.

its actually pretty good. The peak is fully open at the top. I did take it off last year on my trip to the snowy's as we were doing quite long days travelling at high speed for long periods. On my previous bike, 1190 adventure I would leave it on all the time as the bike offered good wind protection.

if you're chasing better times than yes, it will help you out a lot. I'm pretty sure the r1 with standard gearing does just over 170km/hr in 1st gear.

Few close up pics of the wheels as requested. Man this thing just keeps on impressing me. Similar to my last big twin, they take quite a while to open up when they're new. I just hit 10,000kms and this motor just keeps getting better and better.....it does clutch up wheelies in 4th at 110km/hr now. It has the top end power of a 1000cc supersport but the low down and mid range torque is just bull sh!t....the power spread is like no other bike I've had the pleasure to ride. And it looks bad ass..!!

thanks guys...my only regret looking back is not taking that bike to the strip more often. Matt that 15 tooth front sprocket would make it very difficult to keep the wheelys under control. No wonder your are struggling.

Just keep trying mate, you will get there eventually. Try filling your tank up just before you get the strip. The extra fuel will help a little. I managed a 9.89 on my old beema when I went to the strip. So hard to keep the wheel on the ground in 1st and 2nd. I think most of the 1000cc supersport bikes are capable of high 9's. My best 60' for the night was 1.79 but it wasn't on my quickest pass. Link to video here from the night : https://vimeo.com/80598428

I'll take some pics of the wheels during the week....After I clean them.

The worst part about working on my ute is getting it up on Jack stands. Just getting the jack under is a *beep*. Have to drive up on timbers. I wish I had a 2 poster in the shed. One day.

Id use nutserts if you can get your self a kit or you can use 4 small tek screws straight threw where you drill the spot welds. Nutserts look much cleaner though no one will ever see them.

New sticker kit on the KTM

Had a bit of fun this week. I had a small exhaust leak which I though was the turbo flange working its way loose but I came to find it was actually the dump pipe gasket. While I had the car up on stands I decided to attack the rest of the xforce exhaust. I have had problems with one of the flanges about half way down the car hitting the inside of the chassis rail when hard corning (left corners) You can see how close the flange sits to the chassis rail in this photo I had a bit of a brain wave and thought about fitting some springs, one on each side to help keep the exhaust centered during hard corning and take out some of the excessive side ways movement. I found some motorbike side stand springs in the bottom of my tool box and went about finding a suitable location under the car. Left hand spring - It is directly opposite the problem area. Right hand spring - This one is a little further back, just in front of the center muffler. I still need to put a rubber sleeve on this one. I'm really happy with how the springs work, they still let the exhaust move around as required but stop it from moving excessively and bashing against the chassis rail. Next issue is the rear muffler - For starters I found the whole exhaust to be a bit too quiet for my liking. I only drive the car on weekends for fun now so I wanted to make it a little louder to improve the overall driving experience. - The second issue I have is the rear exhaust tips sit about 1.5 inches too low. My factory exhaust also sat down at this height. So I decided to do a muffler delete and at the same time lift the height of the tips. New pipes welded in place. I wanted to keep the xforce tips as they are resonated. Also it worked out quite simple to do it this way as all I needed was 2 x straight section of 2.5" with a 10° bend on one end for each pipe. I had the muffler shop open up the ends of the pipes so all the pieces just slipped in together and was super easy to weld up. Had to weld on new hangers of course but got the pipes lined up nicely & sitting up in the rear bar now instead of hanging down like a set of nuts. Sounds great. Its a fair bit louder on idle and going up through the gears but when you're cruising at anywhere from 80 - 120 its quiet as. Cant tell the difference on the highway.

Ive heard you can buy it in drums from a few places Down here. I know Kon from wollongong automotive services Either sells it or has access to somebody who sells it By the drum..... I haven't looked into it any further as I need a new clutch before I to e85.

everybody's prices differ and yes $160 was this particular businesses price from ford for a genuine unpainted fg xr8 bonnet, I was shocked too, but I was there when he made the phone call to ford. Believe me I'm not suggesting to list it on the quote and than try to slip it through under there noses..... You obviously know more than me cause you work in the game, but the last time I had insurance work done, it was quoted by the repairer, photos of the damage along with the quote were sent to the insurance company, it was all approved, than the work was carried out....there was no assessment done by the insurance company. My way of thinking was it could be taken into account when quoting the job. Obviously it cannot if there is a huge price difference in the bonnets.

Just tell the repairer what you want to do when he quotes it up, he has probably already done it for someone in the past. There wont be much difference, if any in ''his'' price from ford for an xr8 bonnet compared to a xr6t bonnet. He can allow for it in his quote anyway.......If its going through insurance you shouldn't have to pay the difference if there is any unless the repairer is an uptight *beep*. I know a certain smash repairer that pays $160 for a genuine f6 xr8 bonnet unpainted. I think the trade price from ford is 600+. That is how much markup there is on some parts.

Looks mint

I installed some performance bracing in the ute. Handel's like its on rails now and I'm pretty sure I picked up 20rwkw.

agreed, this was all I could find in store......I used the blue 3m clay when I worked at a car dealership and it was way better. I'll order it online next time, I had a hard enough time finding a clay bar on it's own, every shop I went to wanted to sell me a kit for $60 with a bunch of useless sh!t I didn't want or need.

Think logically or maybe don't think logically, when I bought my ute I decided all I was going to go is remove the center muffler and a tune. 2 years later and now look at my signiture. I'm now planning the next round of mods and more power again. If your planning to go to the trouble of changing the turbo maybe you should aim a little higher incase you change your mind down the track, as buttplug has said the standard turbo is quite capable of 360-370.

Well done mate. Nice healthy power figures on reasonable boost... Joe's service is second to none. Congrats

I have measured the open and closed lengths of the gas struts. Note: Measurement was taken from the center of the pin/knuckle that the strut pops onto. With hard lid open - center to center measures 530mm (this will also be the strut length fully extended) With hard lid closed - center to center measures 320mm (this is about 40mm from the strut being fully compressed) Brand name: Part number / numbers All the other writing on it was just warning messages...contents under pressure, do not open, do not use to bash caunts....bla bla bla.

I'll measure mine tonight when I get home from work.

Is there much of a gain, or any benefit's to be had from upgrading the compressor housing with the billet wheel. I was under the impression, the gtx has a different front housing with a 4'' inlet.