I JET

Cheers guys.... Power Mods: Nizpro turbo side intake. PW stage 3 intercooler kit, hot and cold piping, TB relocation. PW surge with 044. Stainless steel Xforce turbo back, 4" dump, twin 2.5" cat back. Wastegate flapper mod. 12psi Actuator. Either ID1000's or KPM equivalent will be installed when it gets tuned on Wednesday. Suspension: Bilstein Front struts with King spring KFFL-57-520. (High spring rate) Pedders Heavy duty reverse eye leafs 20mm Whiteline rear sway bar

BF2 - 2007 - #0166 - Lightning Strike Silver - Manual - 80,000km - Fully optioned - Est 350rwkw (getting tuned this week)

The yoot is finally done all bar the tune. Wow what a difference new suspension and a rear sway bar makes. Really happy with how it sits now. Those bilsteins are worth the money. It rides so nice, I was expecting it to be harsh but its simply awesome. Firm but not harsh, rides well, handles well, sits nicely. Very happy. Booked in at CMS on wednesday to get the tune done. Should be a nice power increase over stock. Hehehehe I might join you guys for the second leg of the cruise. Angel can you give me a buzz? I'll PM you my number. Hopefully you check this.

Hmm. I think I need a set of those wheels. I use to really like the 19" twisties but after looking at them every day for 2 years they starting to look meh..

^listen to this bloke. +1 on going back to the stock front sway bar. Very simple to change. I would try this first before you go replacing expensive components.

Yep, its getting tuned on Monday or Tuesday. Ill let you know about this week but I'll more than likely give it a miss this time. It will be too frustrating

oooooooooooooooooo...don't think car will be ready. It should be driving but I doubt it will be tuned by Friday.

OK so my cheap solution was to straighten up the bent rib than take a length of Flat bar and weld it to the outside of the rib and also to the uprights on each end to put some strength into it. Test fit, checking length, marking up cut outs Cut outs done, paint ground back, ready for welding. Welds all done and ground back, Nice and straight now. Quick lick of primer to seal it, for once all that sh*t they put in your letter box comes in handy. All finished and really happy with the result. Looks just like a bought one......actually it looks much better. This solution might not suit everyone but because I had the mig welder handy it was quick an easy to do.

This "fitment issue" as far as I know affects the one piece genuine ford / fpv hard lids. I borrowed a few pics from another thread to help explain whats going on with the fitment problems. Basically, there were two different types of hinges used to support the front of the hard lid... A short black hinge that bolts to the center web as show bellow. (this is the problem hinge) A large stainless steel wrap around hinge shown further down the page. Ok so the full wrap around hinge looks to be the go. Now I inquired at ford about purchasing this part and there was still a few available but they retailed for something ridiculous like $500+. I thought I may as well pull the tub liner out and have a look at whats going on. Hard Lid off, Tub liner out Headboard Top Right Headboard Top Left Now you can see the result of the twisting load that is applied to the top rib. Both ends beginning to tear & its pulling away from the post on either end. On my ute, this caused the hard lid to overhand the tailgate by 3 inches. It also overhung the left side only by around 1.5 inches. The whole lid sat crooked and looked f*cked. I my opinion it ruined the look of the car. Like having shotty pannel gaps.

^ yeah matey, I'm thinking it would be cool to have it all documented in one place. I might start a build thread tonight or tomorrow.

Starting from stock as a rock. It's going to be so nice to have it finished with new suspension, brakes, sway bars and more power. I haven't actually driven my ute since back in June. I went on holidays for 2 weeks and the day after I got home, I was taken out by an old guy while riding my motorbike and spent 2.5 months in hospital. I've been driving that white corolla since I got out of hospital cause my ute is a manual. Will be so nice to drive my car again.

Cooler and piping installed today. Its slowly coming together. *Throttle body relocation tomorrow and finish off piping and wiring...than front bar and lights back on. *Surge tank and wiring on Saturday. *Turbo on Sunday *Fit rest of exhaust & Fab up airbox on Monday Hopefully it can be tuned by the end of next week. If not the week that follows.

^ I know. It's nearly (nsfw)

I know but it looks cool...... and this thread is all about pics.

PW stage 3 kit. This thing is a beast.

Thanks Matty, watch this space.......still a long list of stuff to do this week that will carry over to next week no doubt. I was talking to Pat from wholesale suspension today. I was going to swap the SSL for SL on the front but now thinking of going one further to the 350mm hub to guard that Pat originally recommended. Was taking measurements again this afternoon and even with SL (340mm) there is still f*ckall travel left in the shock. Kind of a waste of a nice set of bilsteins if they not going to work to there potential. It wont sit as low as I like but at least it will handle & ride better. Also at this height I'll be able to get the heavier spring rate. Cheers Mate. I'm in Albion Park now so will meet up and go for a spin up the pass when its all finished. I'm pretty certain I'm going to get Jason from southern motorworks to do the tune. He is literally 2 minutes down the road from me. I know he doesn't do as many xr6t's as other shops but he does have a sh*t tonne of experience and out of all the people I've talked to, no one can say a bad thing about him or about the cars he's tuned.

More weight reduction today. Removed - front bar, stock hot & cold piping & stock cooler to make way for stage 3 PW goodness.

Pulled off the standard actuator to replace with a 12 pound one but while inspecting the wastegate operation I found that the bush on the wastegate flapper arm was flogged out and the larger diameter flapper was clashing with the housing wall and jamming up at times. Soooo off came the turbo.

Front struts back out today. I'll move onto changing the wastegate actuator after lunch

How much boost on the new tune with the new plenum?

I promise this is not how I work on my car,.....I just didn't want to drop it right to the ground because I still had alot more work to do on it today......To put everyone's mind at ease the car was still sitting on two jack stands under the diff and the trolley jack was still on the cross member at the front. It just ''looked'' hella dodgy I know. Like Car Jenga.. Any way, I finished off the rear end today. Whiteline Rear sway bar fitted nicely. New leafs where all tightened down, rear muffler sitting in there and wheels back on. And tomorrow I shall pull the front struts back out and wait for some SL's.

I made it more lowered......front is too much though so I'm gonna swap out the SSL for SL

Decided to wrap my stainless steel 4 inch dump before it goes on. I weighed up all the pro's and con's and decided t go with it.

Wow..that's awesome. Just goes to show that anything is possible...you can make just about anything work if you have the budget, or the time & skill set to do yourself. It sure beats the cobb & co style rear end on our utes

Whiteline 20mm Rear Sway Bar - for the UTE DBA T3 Clubspec Front Rotors - 355mm Bilstine Front shocks Front SSL King springs Pedders Heavy Duty reverse eye Leaf springs Front sway bar D-bush Rear shackle bush Rear spring eye bush Rear sandwich plate bush Lots of Bush! All this should make it handle more like a car and less like a boat!