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I guess the final price would depend heavily on how many sets are being made. Mick is a nice guy, you can message him directly to discuss pricing. LInk to their facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/CraftedPerformance/

Hi mate I can put you in touch with the machinist that made them. The original set was dimensioned from a new pedders saddle bush but then further machining was done after the first trial fitment to accomadate a better pull down on the U bolts and better clearance to the centre bolt / pin holding the leaf pack together. The machinist has all the final dimensions. When I spoke to him last he did say he would need to make at least two sets at a time to make it worth his while but he is really good to deal with I'm sure he will sort you out. Like anything, making one offs arnt cheap. If anyone else is interested in a set now would be a good time.

FYI : here's a photo of a the pedders saddle bushes installed. They squish & deform quite a lot. Oem rubber ones are worse yet again.

3. Front brake pads. These brembo pads have done 25,000 kms. 4. New Looks. I decided to remove my oem hard lid & install an FG sports bar. For practicality reasons but I actually like how it looks. 5. Rear End Tramp!! My ute has always suffered with bad tramping ever since the power increase. Rear shocks were due for replacement also. I'd seen these solid diff mounts used on another forum & the guys really seemed to rave on about them. They claimed to dramatically reduce tramp or axle hop while also tightening up the rear end feel. I had a local performance machine shop make up a set for me & I'm super happy with the results. Axle tramp is reduced to next to nothing - With the stock or nolethane bushes I would rate the tramp a 10/10 With the solid bushes installed I would rate the tramp a 1 or 2/10 (its gone in almost all situations however I have experienced very light tramp on certain bits of tarmac in certain situations) Other big win is the LSD works better, it feels tighter, handling is more predictable & corners flatter. When the back steps out under power its so controllable now. The first iteration of the solid plates had some small fitment issues where the pin on the leaf locates & also the overall thickness was a few mm off. I had some further machining done & they now fit perfectly. You can see in the last pic how the top and bottom plates pull up hard with no gaps. Spot on now.

small update guys... it has been a while. 1. Flywheel Issues. Late last year I had my flywheel come loose a few months after the new clutch was installed. Sounds horrible, like a bottom end knock which goes away when clutch is depressed, I thought my box was lunched as the symptoms were similar to an input shaft bearing. After pulling the box out I was pretty relieved to find out it was the flywheel. After speaking with NPC I came to learn it's pretty common on these cars when running more than standard power. Its also the first & last time I do up flywheel bolts with a torque wrench to 'specifications'. Rear side of flywheel had a few hot spots from rubbing back on forth on the crank. This face was skimmed back & the face of the crank was very lightly linished to remove any high spots. There are a few different fixes for this issue but decided to go with one of the more engineered solutions. We drilled & dowel pinned the flywheel & crank shaft. Using a mag base drill, the flywheel machined and installed back on the motor with new bolts, we drilled 3 holes through the flywheel & into the crank shaft the total depth of the dowel pin. The dowel pins we used are solid diameter 10mm precision machined, heat treated din6325 standard with a m6 tolerance. We used an imperial drill size 25/64 which is 9.92mm. The dowel pins are 10.006mm - 10.015mm. I'm told this was common practice on the high revving cosworth motors used for racing in the 70s & 80's. Everything worked like a charm. We took our time & triple checked everything before drilling. The car has been going great, its been just over a year since this was done. Pic's of mates shed, complete with hoist & fridge. 2. Leaky diff hat Resealed with some fresh oil. Old oil still looked brand new after 10,000 kms.

great results Joe. Congrats

the 5 link does look awesome, but at a cost too. Really they should have come that way from factory.

I'm definitely bias ----- but F6 for the win mate. Brembos, nicer interior / exterior / aps twin plate clutch / close ratio 6 speed / 3.73 diff gears.... these are all good things. handling is a touch on the boaty mc boat face side when they are stock.... springs shocks and the addition of a rear sway bar make all the difference.

hi mate, curious to know where you bought all the aero from, specifically the rear wing / front splitter / and also the original black lip you had on the front bar first....? I found a pic of your car on google image search but it related to the winglets on the front bar. I've also seen you in a few of the nulon nationals videos, I've been watching a lot of them, it looks like a great series.

they look nice and subtle

love seeing a cars progression from stock. Well done mate, you got a nice solid set up there.

awesome thread mate, only just reading it now for the first time. Its been great to watch your cars progression. Track set up looks mint... Its has me motivated...I'm really keen to get to wakefield park later this year, I've raced there many times on bikes but never in a car.

Less road noise and better wet weather traction are the two things I noticed when going from a cheaper alternative to a dunlop sp. In the dry they wont hold the killer wasps any better than a cheaper tyre in my experience.

I don't want this to turn into a big debate. I mentioned several times already that I've only got myself to blame. Its important for everybody to see how harsh the consequences are for speeding offences now days. It may just stick in your mind the next time you put the foot down... There's a time and a place for everything, I chose poorly and I'm paying the price.

yeah I'm already super paranoid about my car. I never take it to shopping centres or big car parks, took a heap of photos of the car, inside and out, immobilised it so it will crank but not start. The impound is actually a holding yard of the towing company that picked it up. The tow truck driver told me all the cars are kept inside but id like to verify this. Ive got contacts in Kuching,Borneo and also in Bangkok so those two places came to mind first. Still looking into it at this stage. I'll have to wait at least 3 months until I can get my car back before I do anything. If I stay I still don't know weather to keep it or sell it. This guy came stomping up to my car with the radar in hand to show me the speed. He was also very worked up about it. His mate that turned up two minutes later was supposedly parked on the opposite side of the road doing radar for north bound traffic. He had one of those dome thingys on the roof of his car so I'm guessing his car would have been sounding alarms when I drove past. I've had a few speeding fines in the past, over 5 years ago but still they always check your history so no point contesting it. I stuffed up fair and square and just have to face up to the consequences. It's just that the consequences suck balls. No idea what the impound fees are going to be but if your mates experience is anything to go by than I'm expecting 1000 per month plus the 2k speeding fine. that's 5k already plus the cost of a new battery that will be stuffed and the cost of a new license from the rta. Closer to 5.5k and 6 months with out a license. Seems a bit ridiculous doesn't it??