turboBA
-
Posts
28 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Articles
Media Demo
Everything posted by turboBA
-
Well first time modding a ford, as opposed to Jap imports, so most likely will take it to a tuner and they will know the best bang for my buck.. I think I will call insurance when I get a chance, without quoting my policy number of course. Ive heard there isn't much point increasing boost and getting dyno'd unless you have aftermarket exhaust, is it not necessary to get it through to turbo all the way?
-
Hello all again. Ive looked for this on the forums for a while but haven't seen anything on it. so simple question will solve all I'm about to drop a few thou' on my BA turbo, amongst the mods will be extractors, and turbo back exhaust. I want an external wastegate, but due to emission standards, here apparently illegal. So... Say I get one anyway.. and *knock on wood* I had an accident and had to claim on insurance. Even though an external wastegate has nothing to do with safety, and road worthiness of the vehicle, could they potentially reject my claim due to an illegal part? and if this is the case, my BOV (I've heard illegal in WA also?) is also a reason for my insurance company to void the claim? I've heard mixed opinions on this so thought I'd ask some more trustworthy folk. Thanks in advance Callum
-
I pulled ICC out just enough to check plugs at bottom of the unit, and gave up after that and put it back in the shop. Been in for a few hours, and have it back now. They wouldn't say specifically what they did, but apparently "all fixed" free of course. Since it only happens occasionally ill have to wait and see. Thanks =)
-
Hey guys A couple days ago I took my car to the auto sparky for a quick install of my gauges, as I decided pulling the ICC out was too stressful for me. they completed the job fairly quick and no worries, but as soon as I left the auto sparky a problem started Driving along, doesnt matter if im accelerating, cornering or just sitting at the lights, the ICC would just turn off, come up with "security code error" then reset and back to normal with reset clock etc. I took it back to them that afternoon and they pulled it apart and said they couldnt find anything wrong with it and I said I'd wait the weekend. Here I am on Tuesday, and as driving home yesterday I had two occurrences of the ICC turning completely off, the Ignition turning off (dash lights all turn on like ive just started it and slowly turn off) and roll like that for a good couple of seconds, and to the auto sparky it sounds like im trying to get my BA mk2 manual fixed for a earlier problem for free, but this never happened until they f***** with it. so, down to the question.. is there anything in the process of pulling the ICC out, and wiring up boost and oil pressure, that they could have loosened anything that would mess with ignition and ICC power? so I have a bit of knowledge for the subject when I take it back in today a bit more upset on the subject. Thanks heaps guys in advance
-
That doesn't sound too bad. I think I would rather they don't work at all, so it could be easier fixed, instead of it happening again some random night while hours from my house. at least ill know what to jiggle when it all turns pear shaped.
-
Good idea, will do that now for both. hoping my warranty covers electrics like this.. I was giving it a bit of a thrash when it cut out, so maybe the corners and accelerating wiggled something. for now all is good thanks
-
Up this morning with multimeter to have a look, and they work again? after reading some other posts Its got me a bit worried thinking this may happen frequently. and wont be able to tell my tail lights are off.. least they are going now!
-
Hello all, here with the worst of all, an electrics problem.. (hopefully simple) I was out driving the ba turbo with my mate tonight who yesterday picked up his new ba turbo as well, so up to kings park Perth and back was simple enough. All was fine until I went to leave, and my tail lights, and fog lights wont turn on. Brake lights work, headlights and high beams work, indicators work, just no tail lights, or fog lights. Naturally once home I got out the manual and pulled tail lights fuse, and its fine. Pulled fog lights fuse in engine box, that's fine too. If it were just tail, or fogs I would be thinking the relay, but for both of them, to stop working at the same time with different relays confuses me? or just unlucky? any ideas, or into the shop....? Thanks!
-
^^^ Agree ^^ Up where I worked (until my late notice resignation in January) in Construction of Jimblebar mine in Newman. They were constantly after diesel mechanics. -I'm a Sparky. Worked a year at Jimblebar mine and now in the process of transferring to Wheatstone in Onslow. Medicals, drug tests, inductions etc... Its painful
-
Went to dealer today. They were good about it. Getting towed tomorrow back to workshop... again... at least they will cover the costs for me. and they will look at rear end clunk again since that hasn't been fixed from last time. Thanks for the help! :newrussian:
-
Ok... After a 20 min drive to get dinner, and letting my car sit for 3 hours or so. I was heading out to take my mate home and..... clutch wont engage at all. Foot to the floor, all the way down. wont go into any gear. Now stuck in the driveway. have to get it towed tomorrow... even though 3 month warranty from dealer says they don't cover anything to do with clutch, will consumers guarantee act make them fix it? since Ive owned it less than 3 weeks...? So slave? only thing confusing me is how I still have a full fluid reservoir if there is a hydraulic leak. unless air in the hydraulics? Thank you all for helping me out on here, feels I'm on here every second day with a new problem. This is the most expensive car Ive brought, and didn't expect it to come with so many problems within the first few weeks!
-
Nice and simple. will do, and update how it goes :newrussian:
-
No fluid on the ground. none leaking from master cylinder. No leaks from reservoir or anywhere on from there I can see. Ralph, held clutch for a while just then and no change, doesn't move and still grips about 15-20mm from floor. enough that if the floor mat slips up behind clutch (a lot when driving) cant change. It seems clutch has no slip, grips well, cant find any leaks, Just rite to the floor. It wasn't like that 3 weeks ago
-
Thanks Matt Ill get that looked at when in the shop Wednesday. Calmed me down a bit now I'm not thinking new clutch.
-
Yep still standard. clutch has felt the same since I got it. but only been driving it 2 weeks. Just checked warranty, only cover for pressure plate So the clutch may be alright since there is no slip? It feels like from foot to floor, it grips until about 3/4 way out then just slop after that
-
I think I already know the answer to this question, but here I am hoping it will be something else The other day I had to take my brother to the airport, and at 5am very cold morning I couldn't shift into any gear. clutch fully in, and it just wouldn't go into gear. no grinding or anything. finally got it into 4th, then 3rd, and rocked it back and fourth in those gears until it started to go into other gears, then finally reverse. at this time I was thinking gearbox oil? Then today, at a set of lights it wouldn't go into gear either, unless my clutch was hard, HARD against the floor. Ive only owned this car 3 weeks, one week of that was in shop for diff bushes. Now I'm thinking clutch if f****d... clutch fluid is full. it doesn't slip in any gears or anything, and these are auto adjusting correct? Warranty doesn't cover clutch, just flywheel etc not wearable parts. even half inch off the floor using the clutch and it wont change gear. So... confirm my thoughts that I now have to fork out for a clutch as well?
-
I don't understand how coils in these cars can be so unreliable? other threads people saying change every 3-6 months. I called Ford and they quoted me $65 per coil. Repco $75, but I got them down to $60. Today taking the Turbo for a drive up into the Perth hills. my bro has just got a '02 R8 clubsport so time to take them both through some corners and see how its running. Ill post up later about it
-
Are dyno tunes expensive in Perth? Ive got a warranty covered mechanic to look at it on Wednesday, if he can't sort it, ill have to pay the price for Ford to check.... defiantly running better now, makes me a bit p****d off that I opted for Repco coils, could have gotten ford ones... but Ford was a bit of a drive away, and they were a different brand to whats in the car stock anyway. Time will let me know, if coils refuse to go, Ill be letting Repco know
-
... Wish I read that post before I went and brought 6 coils from repco haha. If it turns to s*** ill be heading back there. I started out just having a look, and ended up having coils and plugs removed so had no car before I planned how Id get anything, Repco is just around the corner from me. yeah looked like white grease, and went for a drive and was happy as! cleaned up the BOV, runs smoother. Then 20 min into the drive, I felt the dreaded engine hesitation... did not fix. So if not coils and plugs... over boost? Im waiting for a gauge to be delivered for just this reason, a week late at the moment. thanks for the on call help this morning
-
Uhh very true, haha need to think before I post next time. thanks for quick reply. just called Ford, $65 ea for coils but their saying they're not Visteon? something like Motorplex (or something with motor in it, motor tech etc) and Repco quoting $75 ea for another random brand. Go with Ford? In between posts ill be attempting to rip the other 5 coils out... All coils out, one had white stuff on the bottom quite bad, the others only a little bit. at $390 plus plugs I hope this fixes the hesitation
-
After a bit of a read up over the last few days, and the problem getting worse every day (or seems to be to me) , I decided this morning to pull the coils out and inspect. It isn't as clear as I thought to see if they're stuffed. And also, Only the 4th attempted plug I was able to remove, I'm really pulling on the others and can see other people say that the whole top can come off and leave the tube stuck in there, not what I'd like to happen... any tricks to remove them safely? or just rip into it? The bottom of the one I could remove has white s**t, does that means they're stuffed? I have pics of the rest of the unit but they look fine to me. I'm thinking if they're that hard to remove they may not have been changed in a while anyway. Visteon is the brand. (standard I think rite?) ALLLLLSO... as I was doing the minor surgery on the engine, I noticed in the throttle body that the valve doesn't shut all the way, it leaves a small gap, about 2-3mm. is this normal? I tried posting pics of it all on here but came up with "error, cannot post pics on this community?" My car is in pieces at them moment so quick reply would be nice, stuck at home.. may have to take the pushbike down to the shop.
-
After reading this post I have just pulled mine apart. clamp wasnt removable but managed to get it off with the clamp... and back on. If I loose everything ill know where to look and have to go buy a small clamp. Its on its 5 min idle at the moment, then a test drive :jump:
-
Ive been out for a late night drive just now, and it didn't do it for a good half an hour of giving it some juice, then really bad started doing it even when I wasnt flooring it. turning left onto a highway holding it in second about 2500rpm, and when I went to accelerate it dropped out momentarily twice, before reving out to 6000 just fine. This is consuming my thoughts at the moment. Im hating it! Cant be fixed soon enough
-
Ill mention it to the mechanic on wednesday to check them. no sound like that, its like the computer is holding the revs as they are for a moment, no deceleration or anything. Had a similar problem in my old VR4, but that wasnt just after gear changes, and turned out to be plugs. Just today though I felt it had a little less power when accelerating then the power kicked in after a second or so. Hadnt had this problem until mechanic removed throttle body so that has me thinking. Im not taking it back to him, as I found the air intake to the turbo hadnt been connected and was sitting in place loose, pulling unfilterd air....
-
I wanted everything to go through ford, but its at my expense there. Ill see how much just to plug in, then take back to free mechanic also rear end clunk? feels like its just behind drivers seat, drive shaft common problems?
