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I know a shop that sold me 235/45/17's for $100 each. kelly charger GT they were incase anybodies interested. Don't expect no grip in the wet either hahaha! I've gone through so many sets of cheapo tyres I'm thinking about writing up a review haha.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1262564_10153241066040386_1257527575_o.jpg perth motorplex (on their fb page) today. Who says it's a bad day? Even cleaned my ride today! It'd be awesome to cruise up to whoop ass wed together.

There are defiantly other shops close to fremantle that tune turbo falcons! House of Power being one of them for example, in o connor. The thing is I would bring a V8 Late model camira to House of Power or WA performance and my turbo falcon to XFT or Monsta Torque.

It hammers on 91 and I get the same fuel economy if I go and put 98 in. I'll get it 95 tuned, I always wanted it to be 98 octane tuned but it annoys me trying to find the 98 bowser at some servos. I'm getting a slight rough idle lately so might try putting some 98 in and see if that corrects this. I'm just gonna go buy a standard fuel pump and make sure I've got the tools in the boot if this fails while I'm driving. Did an alternator on side of the road, suppose a fuel pump can't be too must to take on.

I think a turbo conversion is far better than a v8 conversion. You're on a turbo forum, everybody is going to tell you to convert to turbo

I just love how your car sits in the photo above with the new wheels Steve! You must be very happy with that mate!

I really feel like this cracked manifold is the answer to your problems. It sure as hell caused a lot of whacky stuff to go wrong in mine until it was fixed (in quite a dodgy way lol).

About 2000km ago the fuel filter under the car was done. There is one on the fuel pump itself too I thought? It runs good enough on 91 octane versus the difference paying for 98. I ran a lot of 98 through it and I really think unless its tuned theres no point. Even considering a 95 octane tune in the end. I seem to get about the same mileage per tank regardless of octane.

Just noticed today my fuel pump has become noisy. (EDIT: THIS BELONGS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM FORUM, MY BAD). - It doesn't seem to do it all the time- only notice it on idle after a drive when I'm sitting idling it just seems to be a bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzt sound exactly like the fuel pump priming sound. When I turn off ignition it seems to continue for like half a second but the same note. Car runs fine, does not seem lacking in power however the past few weeks it has been getting 91 octane and the tank has been getting drained to empty then refueled. I also have a heavy right foot that does not care how much fuel the car has unless it is bang on empty. I start driving real steady when fuel light comes on but still give it the beans. How hard is it to remove that rear seat and get to the fuel pump? Can I upgrade the fuel pump while still running stock tune? Cheers.

I'd just ask for the turbo bolts to be tightened. Then things like fuel filter and ignition coils can be looked at but I threw lots of money at my crappy BA from trying to fix problems so defiantly take it to an expert.

xcal not displaying all the fault codes/at all? I've seen that one before. My car had P0238 code to do with boost solenoid being unplugged from the ECU. xcal didn't see code, elm-327 bluetooth adapter and phone did.

Did alternator on side of road where car broke down yesterday this morning. Took me and my mate (pictured, I didnt wear gloves) 2.5 hours to swap over an alternator. Car runs better than ever and yeah, I think I'll pay somebody next time as we removed: intake piping power steering pump thermo fans idler pulley All up $309 for genuine fraud alternator. picture is in early stages where the radiator got a little beaten up and we had to remove stuff to get it out.

Gotta hate it when alternators fail on a little trip between your house and a mates. The pulley seized. If yours is noisy, I'd suggest getting it done. It was only booked in friday!

Since you're playing with traction control, I would suggest an automatic transmission flush and a external cooler fitted. They don't seem to like heat these transmissions. See if you get wheelspin when you turn T/C off (regardless of the status of the light), on a private property of course. No members here do burnouts or anything stupid on public roads...

I feel your pain but I hit a stationary car doing 10-15km/h and did a fender and two doors! The damage bill for the other car was less than my insurance excess for third party as comprehensive was over $4000 a year for myself. All up when I repair my car it'll be less than what comprehensive insurance would have cost for a year - If I have no more crashes I win! Now I sorta wish I got comprehensive as then my car would get fixed. I don't really think you can repair that amount of damage cheaply, you could always try and find a wreck and transplant all the parts, meanwhile buying a 4cyl runabout so you can work. This is just terrible, I'd be so shattered if I did that to my car!

How's the power is that intermittant like the clicking noise? I can only recommend take it to a reputable workshop for a service and make sure they do turbo exhaust bolts. Someone like XFT in perth will tell you what's up with the turbo at the same time.

You guys in WA were able to do 235/45 17 tyres for $100 fitted still?

I got told to whack original plugs in so I went to Ford and bought a set. I was told some tuners use the original ones but set the gap.

It's the region in here, circled in red. I'm no photographer sorry . That fuel line thing, I'm talking about the thing that is cable tied down below. It had air con regas in 2010 is the only thing ford had on a computer system that could suggest a prang has caused the pipe or something to rupture (but then again I've had other cars regassed from simply just leaking). In this region in front of the air box is where I found the dodgy earth, I swear the car started that slight bit quicker after that but I don't wanna convince myself it did. It's an 04 MK2 BA, I wouldn't consider it an early BA. It has boot rust on the drivers side (that looks extensive, even can be seen from the outside panel gap between bumper and panel), the other side is all perfect with not a spot of rust.

haha yeah, abit of that too I've made a few calls and been referred to take it to someone who will have a look at the chassis of the car. what about the photo "RHS_FRONT", a friend looked at that and reckoned at least that's been crushed? It's like more than one person has worked on each side of the car. But without any knowledge to do any comparison, I should wait until someone takes a look at it today. That "fuel line" thingy is something I wouldnt mind someone looking at, as it seems to go to some sort of regulator on one side and to some rubber hoses towards the motor on the other side.

Do fords come like this? Especially the firewall behind booster.

What would interest you the most to see that I've talked about? I'd have to wait until tomorrow, no garage for light. A mate had his motorbike put up as a prank on gumtree, the calls took like a day after the ad was pulled down to stop! Then he got me back worse, but I don't even wanna talk about who he got to call me but I'll never be the same again lol.

It's just, if you saw the engine bay, you'd say it's f*cked. You can tell it's been crushed right up there and I know these things crumple a little but damn, I wouldn't have thought the car could be still be on the road. the fuel filter when it was taken off was bent up as if the line going towards the front of the car has been pushed towards the back. This was why the bloody thing couldnt be removed, had to replace line. It could easily be one like you said, fixed in a backyard or something. I just don't know what to do or who to speak to. If this is the case, say I go to an inspection place and they find the frame is out of whack (which I suspect due to passenger tyre outside wearing excessively even after an alignment), is a dealer allowed to have sold such a car even?

What do you do when you suspect your car has had a dodgy history, been written off before or something? It has a clean history on the PPSR. Bought from a dealer. Been re-regoed at some point during it's life. Has evidence of a decent front end smash (I mean decent). Rust on a rear quarter panel coming through (the gap between bumper and panel, on drivers side only, happens to be the side that has the boot rust when the other side is clean). Ummmmm what else to say other than don't impulse buy a car firstly and secondly DON'T EVER LET THE RAC DO AN INSPECTION THEY WON'T FIND ANYTHING ON YOUR CAR OTHER THAN DO THE BRAKES WORK AND DOES IT DRIVE FORWARD.

haha oh no. 2011. not that long ago I swear!