Cameron02

Wow, looks more like a race car now. Dont see many with the bars black, looks great.

that's groovy, so there is no need to switch of air conditioning before a power run.

Yeah probably LOL, actually that is disrespect. The idea is to cool down the intercooler itself as much as possibly so that we are getting cooler air for launch. I dont know, I have not seen or heard of anybody testing it in anything other than 4x4. Would not increase peak power on a dyno but might increase available power at launch. Are you suggesting 100% metho for the street? Agreed it would be more effective but I'm a little worried about potential fire risk. A 10% mix has been suggested in this thread (or was it the water spray thread) and I was going to try that. Ducting is a great idea and I am working on shrouding between intercooler and rediator (so the rad fans help pull air through). I had not thought of making a ram type setup for the intercooler. Would that be as simple as blocking off any areas say around the radiator where airflow might sneak past into the engine bay? Did not know that. any idea why?

Has any body tried mixing silver metalizer with a colour, rather than spraying it on top. I want to make a colour as close to Blueprint as I can.

They actually did that. Piping it into the airbox was a good idea. Would be interesting to see if there was a power gain from the cooler air or an overall loss due to the running of the aircon.

that's a bummer stroller. Matte has always been hard to clean. Sorry I cant help with that. If you do manage to get them clean you could probably peel that centre cap and resprsy it. Maybe the edges could be resprayed too if the jagged bits are trimmed. Good luck.

Wheels look great. Suits the car especially with that roof. The wheels look matt or low sheen, is that right or is it just those pics?

This is one of the reasons I am only doing mods that I can return to stock. If you look at the ads on car sales most of the medium to heavily modified cars are not offered with roadworthy. Cars with mods often sell for less because of this. If you keep all the stock parts you can return it to stock for sale. It might be worth asking the potential seller if he/she has all the stock parts. Sometimes they do. Good luck

Thanks for confirmation, that's a clever tool.

Serious? I could not find any instructions on wiki Do we need to preload like below or just bolt it in?

Maybe one of the flanges where the pipes join has come lose or lost a nut n bolt? Would explain the rattle and the noise invrease.

No, hence the word "seems". Watched it on you tube and it looked easy enough, plus I was intending to have the turbo out whilst doing it. "everybody else" LOL

OK cool, so is it in a running? Nothing blown up Are you happy with the quality of the job? Are the under bonet temps noticeible lower? While I'm here, what do people think of ceramic coating any under bonnet alloy intercooler pipes. I notice they get pretty darn hot but I'm not sure weather coating them (Outside only) would have a positive or negative effect. ie. it would help prevent heat soak from under bonnet, but would it also mean that any heat in the pipes can now only escape into the inside air flow? Pretty sure it would be an overall positive effect but would be good if somebody knew for sure. My head exploades when I think about it.

Yes im getting a 12psi actuator but that seems to be a sinch to remove/replace.

Ok thanks, is your HPC or another brand and are the prices comparable with what you paid? I have the HPC coat on my XR8 motor and it works great but this turbo coat seems to be very expensive.

Hi Ralphy I phoned HPC today to get a quote. Wanted $385 for turbo housing exterior only, $385 for exhaust manifold exterior only, both in turbo coat. Said they would not coat inside of turbo or manifold incase it flaked off and jammed the turbine. He also said that the dump would not need turbo coat as it didnt get as hot and I could use the normal exhaust coat at $15 per foot. So I can get the standard dump done inside and out for about $20. Did you say you had the turbo inside coated? Can you tell me where. Also how much did it all cost you. The turbo coat seems excessive although it does sound difficult to apply. He said they have to oxy torch it on. It all seemed a bit weird to me because when I look at the Garrett web site then offer their turbos ceramic coated and it seems like they are talking about the inside as well?

Yeah, I think cooper has gone up in price in recent years. I recall hearing many cases of people stealing cooper wire from train lines? For an intercooler an aluminium tank and bar with cooper fins would be good but I'm pretty sure cooper cant be welded to aluminium. Oops! I have to correct myself Aluminium actually oxidises very quickly. Its just that it does not interfer much with its heat transfer abilities and does not look bad either.

Excellent. I just need the one housing then. Thank you.

Thanks, Can you help me with this will it have an effect on emissions though? Cant see how it would? If I return the rest of the car to stock parts and stock tune will the car run fine with ported housing or would it need a tune?

I want to be able to return it to stock if I get an EPA notice

As far as I am aware (and I am prepared to be corrected) the colour is only an issue if the heat energy is comming in the form of photons (light) eg. sunlight. In the case of sunlight, black will absorb more heat as it absorbs the photons. White will be coolest as it reflects all the colours of the spectrum. Differnt colours will have different effects depenging on which colours of the spectrum the absorb or reflect. This is subtractive colour (reflective). Not to be confused with additive colour where you are simply looking at light itself (such as a computer screen). Not sure where you are getting your info from but I just cant let this one go. Copper is far better at transfering heat than aluminium. that's why radiators have been cooper for so long. They paint them black because copper oxidises (a form of rust). Radiators were usually considered ugly so black was the colour but you can paint them any colour you want...no difference. So I hear you ask, why are all the intercoolers aluminium then. Cooper is a better conductor but it is softer. You will find radiator fins bend much more easily that intercooler fins. From memory I thank most radistors have brass tanks with cooper fins. Any way due to the pressures going through an intercooler aluminium is used for the extra strength. In fact gold is a much better conductor than cooper but its a tad expensive and softer again. Electricity works much the same aluminium ok, cooper better, gold awesome. Thts why gold is used for critical electronic components. I think the reason some people paint their intercoolers black is for the stealth look. Aluminium oxidises too but very slowly and you can easily rub it off. Correct, as I think I mentioned earlier, once you hit 60kmh the fan will be useless. However whilst you are idling at the lights on a hot summers day or doing a burnout before the drag it may be usefull to get the intercooler as cool as possible before the run. Once you are moving this is where I believe the water spray takes over as the air flow increases evaporation and therefore cooling.

Yes the exchange is not too bad. I jyst wanted an exttra housing so I could return it to stock if I need to. that's why I was so excited when I saw that ebay one for $150ish

Too good to be true I guess. Thanks Welshy

Once I have the gauges and sensors I will scientifically test it all and post the results. Looks like WOT to me, he is going from 100 to 170, looks like he is in a Golf. Not sure what you mean here. Are you saying that the power draw would put more strain on the alternator causing it to make more resistance on the fan belt which reduces engine power? If that's what you are saying then can you provide figures to back it up please. I say this because I saw figures on a 4x4 site (they were talking thermo fan on intercooler) and the fan caused a loss less than 1hp. They concluded that the power draw was not an issue. Yes you may be right. Although thermo fans do seem to be quite common amoungst the 4x4 community but this is because the gains there are huge, due the fact that they engine is working hard whilst the vehicle is moving slowly so natural air flow is limited. Anyway its easily tested, I just have to find a way to fit the fan in there. LOL

OK, I have read everything I could find (on this site) back to 2005. People who have done it with the washer bottle just say yeah it works but they dont provide any concrete evidence. Likewise articles say that atomised is better but they dont provide any comparrison testing that I can find. They just show the atomised results and say its better. I'll keep looking. This is a pretty good demonstration on youtube.