Cameron02

Yep OK, Just watched a couple of vids. Thanks for the dodgy drawings, modern technology is awesome. I'll let you know how I go. Photo's or burnt out shell....no doubt

Many thanks, You are probably correct about the switch not handling the current, the pins look pretty thin. Whilst I have heard of relays, I dont really know how they work so I guess I'll hit you tube

Hello good people, With a bit of luck a diagram of what I am attempting is attached. I am installing a spray system for my intercooler. Which should be simple enough except that To make it switch on and off the way I want is making for some complicated wiring (complicated for me anyway). Diagram explanation Latch Switch = Press the switch to turn it on, it stays on until you press it again Momentary switch = Press it and its on, release it and it goes off. Pressure switch = Connect to manifold vacumme and it will activate when the boost reaches the desired PSI C = common NO = normally open (off) NC = normally closed (on) + and - on the switches are for switch lights. What I want to happen: The system is off. Press the latch switch to activate the system (latch switch light comes on), The pressure switch will now activate the pump if the desired PSI is reached (when the pressure switch is on the momentary switch will light up). The momentary switch can now also be used (waiting at the lights for example). The momentary switch will acivate the pump and the switch will light up. So will it work the way I have it wired? If I have stuffed it up, is it possible to get what I want? I am also installing 3 gauges in the tissuse box area (along with the switches) and will post pics when finished

From the info you have included it sounds like that ebay conversion is for Auto to manual. There are kits for 5 speed to 6 speed man. I think the kit you are looking at will have everything you need and maybe some extra bits you dont need like pedal box. Check out the Mal Wood website for more info. http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=ford

Right, I'm even writting faster now.

The Cover plate in the middle of the dash is easy to remove but I just cracked mine. So.......make sure you insert the screwdriver from the top (closest to the windscreen). I tried to lever it from the bottom.

I'm shooting for the number 1 posi. For anybody who is reading this with the view of actually choosing what surfaces to use on their vehicles please consider that. Emissivity is only one way to move heat. We also have conduction and convection. Convection being the one we car folk probably know the most about ie. the heat transfer through contact with air or water. Just didnt want people to think that a polished surface will transmit stuff all heat. It will still transmit heaps just not as much as say the same object in matt black. With regards to painting the intercooler matt black. Looks like it will have a benificial effect (provided its not a special insulating paint) but we would probably need to dip the intercooler in a tank of the stuff to reach all the fins.

Sorry that my posts offend you so greatly. Just trying to learn and share. You have my permission to not read them if you wish.

OK this table should answer most questions about colour. To sum up. If its black or white it does not make a dramatic difference. Most coloured mat surfaces will emisify a fair bit of heat. The big take out is that polished metal surfaces (aluminium, cooper, stailness etc. Do not emisify much heat at all. In other words the dont absorb heat very well and they do not give off heat very well (when compared to a matt surface of any colour). Emissivity TableEmissivity is a measure of the efficiency in which a surface emits thermal energy. It is defined as the fraction of energy being emitted relative to that emitted by a thermally black surface (a black body). A black body is a material that is a perfect emitter of heat energy and has an emissivity value of 1. A material with an emissivity value of 0 would be considered a perfect thermal mirror. For example, if an object had the potential to emit 100 units of energy but only emits 90 units in the real world, then that object would have an emissivity value of 0.90. In the real world there are no perfect "black bodies" and very few perfect infrared mirrors so most objects have an emissivity between 0 and 1. The accuracy of the following figures is almost impossible to guarantee as the emissivity of a surface will not only alter with regard to texture and colour but also with its actual temperature at the time of measurement. We would recommend, in the first instance, comparing measurements found, with an accurate surface probe or wire probe, and then the Infrared thermometer can be adjusted to match the correct emissivity and used for subsequent measurements. No responsibility can be assumed by ThermoWorks for the accuracy or otherwise of the following figures. Aluminium: anodised 0.77 Aluminium: polished 0.05 Asbestos: board 0.96 Asbestos: fabric 0.78 Asbestos: paper 0.93 Asbestos: slate 0.96 Brass: highly polished 0.03 Brass: oxidized 0.61 Brick: common .81-.86 Brick: common, red 0.93 Brick: facing, red 0.92 Brick: fireclay 0.75 Brick: masonry 0.94 Brick: red 0.90 Carbon: candle soot 0.95 Carbon: graphite, filed surface 0.98 Carbon: purified 0.80 Cement: 0.54 Charcoal: powder 0.96 Chipboard: untreated 0.90 Chromium: polished 0.10 Clay: fired 0.91 Concrete 0.92 Concrete: dry 0.95 Concrete: rough .92-.97 Copper: polished 0.05 Copper: oxidized 0.65 Enamel: lacquer 0.90 Fabric: Hessian, green 0.88 Fabric: Hessian, uncoloured 0.87 Fibreglass 0.75 Fibre board: porous, untreated 0.85 Fibre board: hard, untreated 0.85 Filler: white 0.88 Firebrick 0.68 Formica 0.94 Galvanized Pipe 0.46 Glass 0.92 Glass: chemical ware (partly transparent) 0.97 Glass: frosted 0.96 Glass: frosted 0.70 Glass: polished plate 0.94 Granite: natural surface 0.96 Graphite: powder 0.97 Gravel 0.28 Gypsum 0.08 Hardwood: across grain 0.82 Hardwood: along grain .68-.73 Ice 0.97 Iron: heavily rusted .91-.96 Lacquer: bakelite 0.93 Lacquer: dull black 0.97 Lampblack 0.96 Limestone: natural surface 0.96 Mortar 0.87 Mortar: dry 0.94 P.V.C. .91-.93 Paint: 3M, black velvet coating 9560 series optical black @1.00 Paint: aluminium 0.45 Paint, oil: average of 16 colours 0.94 Paint: oil, black, flat 0.94 Paint: oil, black, gloss 0.92 Paint: oil, grey, flat 0.97 Paint: oil, grey, gloss 0.94 Paint: oil, various colours 0.94 Paint: plastic, black 0.95 Paint: plastic, white 0.84 Paper: black 0.90 Paper: black, dull 0.94 Paper: black, shiny 0.90 Paper: cardboard box 0.81 Paper: green 0.85 Paper: red 0.76 Paper: white 0.68 Paper: white bond 0.93 Paper: yellow 0.72 Paper: tar 0.92 Pipes: glazed 0.83 Plaster .86-.90 Plaster: rough coat 0.91 Plasterboard: untreated 0.90 Plastic: acrylic, clear 0.94 Plastic: black 0.95 Plastic: white 0.84 Plastic paper: red 0.94 Plastic paper: white 0.84 Plexiglass: Perpex 0.86 Plywood .83-.98 Plywood: commercial, smooth finish, dry 0.82 Plywood: untreated 0.83 Polypropylene 0.97 Porcelain: glazed 0.92 Quartz 0.93 Redwood: wrought, untreated 0.83 Redwood: unwrought, untreated 0.84 Rubber 0.95 Rubber: stopper, black 0.97 Sand 0.90 Skin, human 0.98 Snow 0.80 Soil: dry 0.92 Soil: frozen 0.93 Soil: saturated with water 0.95 Stainless Steel 0.59 Stainless Plate 0.34 Steel: galvanized 0.28 Steel: rolled freshly 0.24 Styrofoam: insulation 0.60 Tape: electrical, insulating, black 0.97 Tape: masking 0.92 Tile: floor, asbestos 0.94 Tile: glazed 0.94 Tin: burnished 0.05 Tin: commercial tin-plated sheet iron 0.06 Varnish: flat 0.93 Wallpaper: slight pattern, light grey 0.85 Wallpaper: slight pattern, red 0.90 Water: 0.95 Water: distilled 0.95 Water: ice, smooth 0.96 Water: frost crystals 0.98 Water: snow 0.85 Wood: planed 0.90 Wood: panelling, light finish 0.87 Wood: spruce, polished, dry 0.86

NO, not smart enough, or patient enough.

Surface effects Lighter colors and also whites and metallic substances absorb less illuminating light, and thus heat up less; but otherwise color makes small difference as regards heat transfer between an object at everyday temperatures and its surroundings, since the dominant emitted wavelengths are nowhere near the visible spectrum, but rather in the far infrared. Emissivities at those wavelengths have little to do with visual emissivities (visible colors); in the far infra-red, most objects have high emissivities. Thus, except in sunlight, the color of clothing makes little difference as regards warmth; likewise, paint color of houses makes little difference to warmth except when the painted part is sunlit. The main exception to this is shiny metal surfaces, which have low emissivities both in the visible wavelengths and in the far infrared. Such surfaces can be used to reduce heat transfer in both directions; an example of this is the multi-layer insulation used to insulate spacecraft. The above is lifted from WIKIPEDIA under "thermal radiation"

Hi Benny, Thanks for the link, interesting stuff, looks like I stuffed up by only thinking about the visible spectrum. So my hypothesis is in tatters. I will continue researching and let you know but so far........... In the example you have linked to the can is wrapped in "clear" magic tape. So colour does not enter the example. Magic tape is matt. Matt surfaces expose much more surface area to the outside (eg. draw a straight 10cm line between 2 points, then draw a wavy line between the same 2 points, our pen has travelled much further on the wavy line). So this example is showing how increasing surface area will allow more heat to escape. At the end he says if you have a shinny metal surface paint it a matt colour. He does not mention which colour so I think it does not matter as much as area. However Both "area" and "emissivity" are important parts of the equation for calculating "black body radiation". So it appears to be correct that colours that absorb photons more quickly (black is best) will also emit them more quickly (this is where I stuffed up as I was only thinking of visable light and not infra red). I will continue to reasearch to see wether it is the matt or the colour which is having the most effect here. For example gloss black may be wosre than matt aluminium. Matt black is best. For our purposes we just need to make sure we dont use it near a heat source such as the turbo. So those people who polish the compressor housings will be reflecting radiant heat (good) but also not letting a lot of heat out (not so good). Not sure of end result yet.

Just wondering....... what is the benefit/reason for this mod?

Agreed. Any body can just throw their wallet at it. Impellor took some calculated risks and gave it a go. Judging by the resluts he did really well.

Fantastic result for money spent Impellor, well done. So, no issues controling boost (notice you dont have port/flapper mod)

Cool

Looks OK for the money. Although the transport costs seem excessive. Pretty sure the Glass will be a better insulator than aluminium. I dont believe it would not make a lot of difference if you are getting plenty of outside air into the box. Only issue I can see (from the pics) is that one would need to seal the top with rubber to prevent air being sucked in from under the bonnet. The areas around pipes and bodywork probably have similar issues.

Is this a new pork flavoured potato chip you are discussing

Yes relentless it is the job of the ceramic to keep the heat in the exhaust because the exhaust is damm hot and we dont want that heat in the engine bay. IMO the idea behind coating the intake pipes is to keep the pipes from heating up. So for example where the intake pipes run over the top of the turbo. Coating these intake pipes would definately reduce the amout of heat they absorb from the turbo and headers. But my issue is that the intake piping will also eventually be heating up as a result of the hot air running through them and since the out side is coated the inside becomes the most effective place to shed that heat. This could be overcome by coating the inside as well but most people try to avoid coating the inside in case a bit flakes of and makes its way into the engine. That said the chance of ceramic coating flaking off from an intake pipe is probably about 10,000 to 1. So I think I just convinced myself to do it.

Thanks Adam, I can relax now. I thought maybe something had fallen off.

Hello wise auto elec type persons, Was out working on the car this arvo and I noticed this (red and black) plug comming from the ECU, you can also see an apparently associated earth wire in the pic. Does anybody know what its for? Is it original BA wiring or aftermarket?

Hey Impellor, Did you do the crossover and plenum mods yourself? Is the crossover a restriction in the standard system?

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OK pictures should be here. Also a pic of the grippy squeezy type thingy that the side of the bumper attaches too. To remove basically pull the bumper (near the wheel arch) out to the side. To put it back on just line it up and push it on.

Removed my bumper today, I found this thread very usefull, thanks to those who contributed. Just confirming that the BA series 1 does not have screws or bolts behind the number plate. There is no need to even remove the number plate. There is a hole there and a lug the slides into it for support but it just slides in see pics Ok, I intended to put pics here but I cant remember how to do it