Cameron02

Your setup looks very professional. Glad you have it up and running now. Are you using a pressure switch?

Nice 1 Weeman. I thought about pedal activation but went for a pressure switch instead. I think pedal activation would be just as good but maybe a little harder to install. What did you use for a spray nozzle? Now that I have a gauge that gives me intercooler temp in and temp out, I hope to be able to provide concrete stats as to what the water spray does and does not achieve.

In Scotland....I think you can get Scotch in anything you want. 2L, 4L and 10L but not bladders are not cheap. http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/I.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=10l+bladder&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Great idea, I guess I'll have to drink all the wine first

Thanks for the advice guys.

I have a 2003 BA. To save some coin I am planning to do most of my mods myself and then drive the car 16km to the tuner. What do people think? Will it be possible to drive the car to the tuner. Car currently has the factory tune. Mods done: T56 Monza intercooler Water spray Under Batery Pipe High volume fuel pump 2nd intake for air box and K&N filter Mods to do just before driving to tuner: Injectors 60lb Siemens Dekka Turbine housing with port and flapper mod Garrett 12psi actuator Vennom 5inch 100 cell cat pipe At the tuner: Valve springs Supply X3 and tune I'm pretty sure that if I take it easy the turbine housing, cat and actuator should be fine. But I am a little worried that the car might not run with the injectors in. Any body tried it before?

I recently posted some video's to youtube re: my experiences with the port and flapper mod and the exhaust in general. I think they will be usefull for people who are new to the cars and/or are looking to do modifications to the standard system.

Good, in that case I will sit back and relax and wait to see how you go with the fish tank check valves

Nice work. The temp controller looks like a bargin. Only problem I can see is how to place the probe. I have almost finished my setup too. I have the gauge in and have tapped temp sensors into the intercooler. The tank and pump are in the boot. I just need to install the tubing and a wire from my relay to the pump. Taking a while as I just installed the T56 over the weekend. I took plenty of pics of the temp sensor install and hope to do a little tutorial later on. My jets are simple garden mist sprayers, wont be as good as yours so I will be interested to compare results.

Yeah maybe, still dont know what clutch I have yet.

Hi BRK. Too late to take it off. The T56 is now installed. It all went very well but I needed help from a friend to get the T56 in. It was too hard to try and balance the box on a trolly jack and hold it steady at the same time so my brother in law provided an extra pair of hands. I still would like to know what clutch I have. I thought the blue springs might be a give away. Does anybody know, does the original clutch have blue springs?

I am half way through changing my 5 speed to a t56 6 speed gear box. When I purchased the car It was advertised as having a heavy duty clutch. But looking at the amount of rust and the lack of fancy colours I thinking its the standard and maybe original clutch. Can anybody I dentify the clutch from this photo. I can see that the springs are a light blue colour.

The turbo itself is GT3582R but as has been pointed out to me, it comes in many configurations. I have an "exhaust housing" (turbine housing) in front of me right now. It has the following written on it. M4 A/R 1.06 15DO GARRETT NWS 12/2 Maybe they all have that on them?

320 Hope it all goes well for you

Series 1 BA (man) has 3.46 standard. Hey Greg, I also have a series 1 and am about to do the conversion. I was hoping to do the swap over a weekend. Sounds like that might be wishfull thinking on my part. I will also be looking similar power to you (around 300rwkw) can I ask the clutch you got. What make is the clutch you got, im not keen on a rattle at idle.

If you think it looks good then just do it. As you say, you can always peel it off if you change your mind.

In the process of fitting the water spray. Can anybody who has fitted the hobbs type pressure switch please tell me where you plumbed it into.

I think this stuff was originally designed for tool handles. If you want it for tool handles see if you can get the undiluted stuff. You basically get a tin of it and dip the tool habdle in, then lift it out and you have a coated handle (hence plasti dip). The stuff most of us have is the spray cans which I believe already contains thinners for painting.

Ah OK. I have just emailed the supplier so I'll double check with him/her. Thanks for bringing this to my attention Ralphy and J@SNOT

Ahhh.................er...........I just assumed that the pressure switch would work the same way as the boost sensor . Where do people usually plumb them in?

As some may know I am currently installing 3 gauges and a intercooler spray system. I have made a panel to fit in the "tissue box area" and have put the gauges and 2 switches in. I am preparing to "T" into the vac line running of the BOV (blow of valve) as I understand that is the best place. What I need advice on is this: I will be installing a boost sensor and a pressure switch. Is there a prefered method of doing this. ie should I use a cross piece or 2 "T" pieces? Please see diagram. Or does it not make any difference?

That colour looks almost pink. I love it. Good idea just doing the front of the spokes.

Yipee. Thanks Ralphy

OK, I see what happened. Thanks. I just need to get my head around something. Does it have to be actually across the terminals or would option 2 (in the attached diagram) do the same thing. Might save me a lot of wire as the pressure switch will be in the engine bay.

Hey Ralphy, Just looking at your diagram again. The way you have it wired. It looks like the momentary switch will only be able to be used if the pressure switch has already been activated buy the desired PSI. Or is it that, I have no idea what I am talking about?