Cameron02

No worries. Thanks The compressor inlet is definitely bigger than the pipe as the current connector changes size (steps up)

Thanks for the reply. I am however, looking for the inlet size

Hi Turboists I tried searching many times for the answer but cant find anything, I need your help The rubber intake connector from my intake pipe to the compressor housing has a hole in it. I obviously need to replace it (I guess with a silicon connector) but I cant find the sizing anywhere. I'm guessing its 4 inch on the housing down to 3.5 inch on the pipe (all stock piping on a BA). Your knowledge will save me having to pull it all apart to check and may help fellow tuboists in the future

Thank you all for your responses. I thought it might be the gauge.... since the car does not feel much/any different, however...... I have since noticed that the air going into the intercooler is significantly cooler than normal. Very odd

This started happening last night. Acceleration: The car has started making boost sooner than normal Deceleration: The vac is going lower than normal. The lowest is normally -13 but now it goes to -15 and the gauge starts flashing (vac is lower and gauge cant display past -15) Any ideas? Car is BA XR6T

Yes, I believe this is correct. Since the cat is the main restriction, anything you do past or ahead of it (in regards to air flow) should make almost no difference to performance. Once the cat is replaced then any other air flow mods should start to have an effect on performance. My ba had a removed centre muffler when I bought it. It was 90dba and 93bda on deceleration. I replaced the muffler back to stock and it was 81dba. So it definitely makes a difference to sound and might be the best value option until you can afford to do the rest. If you buy a "centre pipe" from someone make sure its for the Ute as its different to the sedan.

Why are people so unkind

Hi Kroozin, Yeah mate it sucks the big one. At least when it gets sorted the thread should help people who run into the same issues. 1. 4 litre washer tank with built in washer pump (VDO) in the boot. 2. One way valve about 10cm from the tank (4mm tubing) 3. Tubing runs under the car with the fuel lines. 4. The new spring loaded valve in the engine bay about 60cm from the sprayers 5. 2 plastic garden mist sprayers (half circle). One for the top half of the intercooler and one for the bottom Before installing the new valve the water would start syphoning out as soon as I filled the tank. Since installing the new valve the water does not start syphoning out immediately. However once the pump has been activated it begins syphoning and empty's the tank. I think I will need to install a solenoid like this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121108003351?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I assume I can get fittings to suit the 4mm tubing.

Old thread but.... I have these on the rear Hero MilanZA HZ1 235/45/17. When you put the foot down they don't squeal they just go zzzzzz. Which to me means they let go a bit too easy. That said, I have not had any other tyres on the car to compare them too. For general driving around they seem fine.

Well, I'm still having the syphoning issue. I fitted one of these http://www.ebay.com....=item43ba34f32f It slows down the syphoning a bit but does not stop it. Takes about 4 hours now to empty my 4 litre tank. Before installing this valve it took about 30 mins. Looks like I may have to investigate installing a solenoid.

Thanks Quasi, Did you end up getting the suspension mods. I'd be interested to see what you think of that upgrade.

Mods list BA manual (6 speed) Exedy clutch FMK-8185SMFHD Walbro high volume fuel pump Deka 60lb injectors turbine port flapper mod Garrett 12lb actuator Venom 5 inch, 100 cell cat pipe (ceramic coated outside only). The rest of the exhaust is stock. Crow valve springs under battery pipe Skegg heat shield 2nd intake to standard airbox plus K&N filter Monza intercooler Exhaust manifold, turbine and dump pipe are all ceramic (turbo X) coated inside and out. Xcal3, tuned by Horse Power Factory

At idle mine reads about -12 (PSI), the lowest it ever gets is about -13 on deceleration. Cruising at around 100kmh its about -9 Hope that helps

You would probably need to give a little more info before people can make clutch recommendations other than saying I use such and such. For example what power is your car making and are you planning to leave it that way or upgrade it. Is it 5 speed or 6 speed?. Will you be driving in peak hour traffic for an hour or 2 every day? "Supposedly has a heavy duty clutch". This suggests that you recently purchased the car and the previous owner told you the clutch was heavy duty which it may or may not be. Do you push the car hard, ie, hard take offs and lots of burn outs?

Yes, that's right its pretty straight forward. I did it myself too but I needed a friend to help install the new box as its dam heavy and wont balance on a jack by itself. It also has a different crossmember. Anyway there are some good threads on change over on this site.

124,000 k's Rob did say that it was making more power but they pulled it back a bit because it is a BA.

Clutch = Exedy FMK-8185SMFHD Its an organic clutch rated to 1000nm Surprisingly very light. About half as much pressure as my previous (standard?) clutch. My wife drove it to the city this morning in peak hour and she loves the clutch. Its very sensitive though and I stalled it twice on the way home. I'm used to it now though. Why HPF. I had a choice between 2 reputable tuners in my area: Rob at HPF answered all my questions (including quotes within 24 hours (usually within a few hours). Basically he gave a sh*t, so I thought he will still probably give a sh*t when he has my car. As it turns out the customer service during the work was great. I got a phone call most days to advise me of progress. The price on unexpected replacements were very reasonable. The other tuner took 3 tries to get a response, then I emailed for a quote. 2 weeks went by so I rang, "no worries just have not got to it yet". I then submitted another email to quote T56 supply and install. To this day I have not had a response to either quote request. I was too scared to inconvenience then by giving them my car.

No, I have not had a chance to fit the new check valve so its still not operational. The intercooler is getting hotter with the increased boost so the spray will come in real handy during Sumer.

OK, that was too small, this should be better

Thanks Velocity, With any luck the Dyno sheet is appearing below

And the winer is........Slightly Depressed Panda with his cryptic guess of (22/7)x 100 which equals 314.2 Honourable mention to Kroozin with 310 So it makes 312.6 rwkw Rob said it made more but they pulled it back as they don't like to push the BA's too much. I have to say that HPF's service has been awesome, right from the moment of first contact. It has never taken them more than 24 hours to answer any questions (and I had a lot of questions). I have not really had a good chance to test the car out as it was peak hour on the way home. I did find out that half throttle in 2nd = no traction. With the standard exhaust the car sounds completely stock except for the noise from the turbo. So far I'm very happy. Damm, I was sure I had posted pics on this site before. Now I cant remember how to do it. Will post Dyno sheet a little later. Sorry folks

So that's a yes then...

Mighty Car Mods did a mythbuster type episode about these things. In case you cant be bothered watching.....it reduced the power.....the fan blades are a restriction. Con Job. http://youtu.be/cbGWgvJN1_8

Congrats on your purchase. These are an excellent car. With those mods the valve springs might have already been done (fingers crossed). Some people with mods like yours will say their valve springs were fine, others experience valve float and I have heard even breakage. The mods you have are already enough to break your gear box and make you clutch slip. So.....as I think Velocity is saying....you probably have a conservative tune with lowish boost to preserve the gearbox and clutch. I upgraded my gearbox before my mods so I was able to sell the 5 speed and get some $ back. My car is still at the tuners because the clutch started slipping as soon as it hit the dyno. Yes I should have changed the clutch but I didn't because the bloke I bought it from said it was heavy duty (my arse). FLASH TUNER: If you could state the model of flash tuner, some of the more experienced members may be able to provide more info. As far as I know you have 2 basic types. 1. A unit that has preprogramed tunes to suit certain power upgrades eg, high flow cat or exhaust, dump and cat or whatever. Some people run these generic tunes for a long time with no problems where as some others are not happy with them. Every engine is a little bit different so it seems to be a bit of luck involved. 2. A unit that allows a Tuner to install custom dyno tunes specifically designed for your car on the spot. The tuner can see how your car is reacting to the modifications you have and tune the car accordingly, taking into account your driving habits. Obviously....this is preferable but is a bit more expensive. New 6 speed gearbox and good clutch will probably set you back about $6,000 or so. So you will need to weigh that up before you go adding power.

Hi Velocity, Yep, you called it. I have told the tuner how I will be using the car and left the choice of clutch up to him. As far as the tune goes, its up to him I have not had a guess on RWKW yet so, I rekon it will make 299