Freight Train

My old car was a converted turbo and had no issues at all

He said he bypassed the boost controller and it was the same

Is this with traction control off? And have you got stock inter cooler piping?

How long are you on the throttle for before it starts playing up?

The 11 blade style wheel from kinguwaga mattyp? Or what? How noisy are they as I was thinking of going down this route

depending how its tuned if the dyno opperator doesnt get on it hard in the begining of the run it wont run as much boost as it will if its held more time to spool up and an auto will always slightly increase boost after a gear change because the turbo is moving more air then it needs to to maintain said boost level at lower revs vs higher revs, if you're sitting on the highway cooling everything down you're going to run more boost with the intercooler ice cold then when its hot, also are you sure your boost gauge is 100% accurate compared to the dynos boost gauge, the miss firing is probably the spark plug gaps, they tend to not do it at that power level when theyre warm but if you sit on the highway and cool down everything a fair bit they run slightly more power and blow out the spark

GTX flows about roughly 20 horsepower more air and will be less laggy, it will also make more power per psi as it absorbs less power to run it, it will also not heat up the intake charge as much

I think the biggest reason for not being able to increase the boost further then it was tuned to is more about ignition timing rather then AFR's, if you're in the low 10 afr then a 1 or 2 extra psi even if it didnt correct for it would not put you in any danger The increase in cylnder pressure is gonna be the killer, taking out boost from what it is tuned at takes away cylnder pressure so theres no issue in the timing sense that's the main reason for the need of tuning for upgrades that increase air flow, if the car is not tuned or not tuned in open loop then they can compensate for slight upgrades like cold air intakes

No this is completely untrue not us nor any workshop with a little common sense would put an oily part on material where somebody sits

What he means is the flapper arm, that the Actuator rod connects to was welded so that the clip is facing outwards not inwards, which is perfectly fine some turbo rebuilders do this and actually straightens the actuator rod further, also Lets say for a second it was on an angle, as the flapper arm opens this changes the angle of the actuator, does this mean every couple of times we hit boost we have to throw a new actuator at our cars

Around about 4 years

Yeah the ute was sold, Yes I am running 50 50 water meth As it stands now the engine will take a maximum of 19 Degrees ignition advance around 5500 I have it pulled back 4 degrees the whole way across The board for safety I plan on keeping this saftely margin in it even with the new engine and increased boost, I dont want to run race fuel because the extra timing I can push will put much more load on my head gasket, I really want to keep away from a big peak cylnder pressure number, and focus on the zone after top dead, water helps slow down the speed of the burn alot which helps this ALOT, not that my new engine with 60 thou copper head gasket and double o ring would have much of an issue anyway, but I like the safety incase of bad batch of fuel

We dont have many customers in brisbane that's probably why you havnt come across them.

The water injection cools the EGT's massively helping the valve springs keep up.

I am only here to give my information on my personal car on the GTX as the thread asks, I am not here to be bashed by Childish posts and misinformed people