#96

if you want volume from the standard stereo, with no amp, you will need to find some speakers with high sensitivity. the stock speakers will be designed for low power, while lots of aftermarkets need plenty of power to get loud. cant help much more, as mine is a work in progress.

got bored... had a pull. some panels fell off.

so swap it and see? wont do any damage.

want loud flutter? growler airbox, blocked bov, more boost. sounds deep, and menacing. want 'dardy' VL flutter? turbo side intake, preferably with the pod as close to, or on the turbo. done. seriously though, how hard is it to do a little light reading before asking questions... Damn gen Y'ers.

try to make one of these before I move to the dark side... no, not holden... perhaps worse! Victoria night preferred for temp, traffic, and "my car isn't 'that' dirty"ability.

Rockford P2D4-12 400rms 12" wired to be 2ohm, conveniently, my amp is 400rms at 2ohm (or so the box said. paperwork inside has it certified to around 570rms!) the gear tbh, hasn't been 'that' pricey. all up for 2 amps, sub, capacitor, component and co-ax is sitting at around the $1k mark. arronm, saw those, and given the non premium icc has 'bass/mid/treble' as the extent of its eq adjustment, I was tempted. for now, I will go with the stock icc and see how I like it. if need be, ill go bigger.

yeah, pretty tempted to go down that ave... so simple. but, centre display becomes redundant. need more work to get wheel controls back. looks messy/dodgy etc. le sigh, I miss the days of single din or double din being the biggest issue.

seriously, is there a facia kit for these cars? (FG mk1 non premium icc) would be WAY easier, with fantastic results too. if not, have figured how I will run it. grab signal from front or rear speakers. no need for both. will spin the icc fader to full strength on my chosen channel. run into audioline lc2i simply to keep 'noise' under control and boost the signal strength. will not use the lc2i's 2nd output channel, as I'd rather not use that for bass control, the amp can take care of that. single set of RCAs out of lc2i and into monoblock amp. amp has pass through feature, so can run another set of RCAs to the 4 channel amp. select "2 channel" input, on the 4 channel amp, and that one set of RCAs will run all 4 outputs. lc2i has remote output, so can run that to the amps I know have 5 channels all receiving the same signal, but being able to be tuned independently. I think that'll do. (just have to front the coin for an LC2i now...)

lol... it is a little concerning playing with a $30k car, but I trust my work. (just takes me a long time to figure out if ive done it right) will be getting a "here, make this work" quote too, just to see.

2 scoops of soil..... big, scoops. this is the povo pack, monster truck version too. could not believe how floaty the steering was when driving this.

yeah, that or use gains to set fader. either way not a biggie. just running through the hundreds of possible configs, and trying to stick to a budget. (would love to simply bung in a Rockford 3.sixty processor or similar and be done with it, but that near on doubles the system cost)

I'm sure it is, I just over think things. was going to use monoblock on high level input, as this also acts as remote turn on. but then decided to add 4 channel, which needs line converters at a minimum. unsure if I can run to line converter, and high inputs. so, no more remote turn on. also realised I cant adjust the fader on icc, without the sub signal changing. lots of simple things I'm sure im over complicating.

since this is a chit hat thread.... I wont go asking for advice, as there is plenty of info out there... but, who here does their own stereo work? do you enjoy it? love hate thing? to broke to pay? I love it, but far out... the more you read, the more you learn, and there more there is to learn. "oh, I have to do this... but now that doesn't work" FFS doing 4 channel, mono block, component fronts, co-ax rears, and sub myself. biggest install ive done yet, and into a sh*tty, non premium icc. everything is just reading for now, as the gear is in the post. god I miss my mazda astina, with its easy to swap stereo. I'll get there, it wont defeat me, but its starting to do my head in...

Got all of my gear ordered now, Rockford Fosgate all round. P400X1 and P400X4 amps. P16-S 6" component speaker system P16 6" speakers P2D4-12 12" sub 1 farad capacitor Guessing I'll have to make some MDF mounts for the speakers, but loving getting a look at what I'm up for in this thread. also hoping the A-pillar covers are still available for $30 each! Cheers boys. did anyone take the plug from the OEM speaker, and mount that to the new speaker, rather than cut the plug off of the car and solder in some wire? think it would be a much tidier way to do it.

interested... saw these at $185, and that's cheap... at $140 delivered, that's nuts! but yes, interested if anyone can saw yay or nay. car is on warranty, and it is the type of part that could be swapped back to stock, but I'd rather not be stuck somewhere with munched syncros or something by going cheap on one of these.

dude, what happened to this?

drift car eh? yep, your going to learn how to use plenty of zip ties fix EVERYTHING I remember playing with a mates sil80, before it had a 5.7L transplant, the timing chain marks are a little bit 'unique' hope that helps

Part 2: I'm pretty sure I've just found the plug that would connect to the sub in a premium pack (two wires, taped to the body, directly behind sub hole) Soooo, can I get my non premium icc to spit out a signal to these wires? If I have to, ill check for continuity and simply add them to the rear speaker output, but would rather the icc give me a signal for it. (dont need adjustments on screen, will have a remote adjustment for the amp already, so even a plain full range speaker signal will work for me) Anyone tried this?

Nice experience at ford today (nuford) Noticed oil around the diff and suspension area, and having warranty, took it in for a look. Guy eyeballing the car wasn't sure, ans asked when I wanted to book it in. Not wanting it off the road for long, I asked if they could at least try to diagnose the fault now, so the parts were waiting fir next time. Straight out the back, and up she goes. No problems, just being driven a bit hard and spitting out of the breather So, they cleaned it all up for me, and checked the level. Cheers. Any solutions to keep that oil in check? Dont know how it breathes, but can it be fitted with a hose in a loop configuration or similar?

*like* Cheers guys.

adding sub/ mono-amp to FG (done to death, I know) hearing people pick up from B pillar and run to a line converter. my amp (Rockford fosgate P400X1) has high level inputs, with a remote turn on circuit. the idea is, you don't run a separate trigger wire. kind of handy. so, being a sub, which wont play high frequency, I shouldn't have to worry about 'noise' and as such the high level inputs should be fine. the question is, where should I get the signal from? if I get it at the B pillar, I'd have to grab it from each side, and run them both to the amp, yes? otherwise, left/right noise might be missed in some songs. even better, where can I access plugs for those speaker signals, so I don't have to cut/splice/solder/etc, and instead can run the new amp wires into the same plug as the speakers. cheers y'all

any chance someone could expand on this? am I reading "custom tuned" but flashed to the ecu, without xcal.

you underestimate the cost of my hobby... just finished up winning the WA supersport (motorcycle road racing) title, and am headed to Melbourne late December to live, and race nationals. gotta keep the cost LOW! so a gtx aint gonna happen. :( also, is an xcal needed? mate just got his car flashed, didn't ever get a hand held unit. (his old man owns a suspension shop, and gets good recommendations, so he did get it done cheap.) reasons for and against?

oh hai guys, whats going on here.