#96

mine tows brilliantly..... if you are happy getting 15L/100km on the highway, and scrubbing out the inside edge of your tyres far quicker than you should, with very modest tongue weight. but, she will skull drag a 1600+kg trailer up any hill at 110km/h.... also, plz rite 4 a acception to da rules. I'm sure they'll believe it's just for business purposes.

echoing most of the above, the MyFord warranty is a good thing, if you are remaining stock, of close to it. I have done diff bushes twice, power steering pump and rack, tailshaft bearing, and more since getting mine. about 2 weeks prior to the original ending, I also had the cam chain skip a tooth, and put a valve into the head. I don't want to know how much a head retails for, but ford replaced it with no issues. that was at 35,000kms.

well, at least the XR8 will be something halfway decent.

keep posting!

a dealer must sell you a vehicle that is "fit for the purpose" if this car's licence will lapse in its current condition, then it is their problem. you do not have to worry about if they have told you it has no warranty etc etc... if you purchased it knowing of problems (and they know you knew) then its for you to fix. but if these are surprises, then they will be required to bring the vehicle to a roadworthy condition.

man up and play on an FNR

I know... but it's really not worn. as is evidenced by the pads. heard the OEM stuff was crap... but to crack after 70k kms... well bugger me.

G'day WA.... left the good state that was home for so long, and based in Vic now, but, I know this page gets good traffic, and good oppions. car is headed in for warranty work, again, before I try to sell it. #diffbush, which has killed the centre tail shaft bearing too. power steering rack is leaking... which was worked on under warranty under 6 months ago. exhaust manifold leak at the turbo. sounds so bad now, people think I've installed a crank inspection hole with a rod. shifter is falling apart. top gel cap has fallen off. leather trim spins, and is coming out from under the top cap. but the one I'm not to sure on, is brake rotors. I've just been told they have heat cracks through the rotor. now, I don't beat up on the brakes. some hard stops, yes, but nothing that would be considered abuse. emergency situations. occasional quick stops. half hearted 'spirited' driving. but never lean on them, have never had brake fade, no mountain passes at mach 1 etc. so I'm stumped as to how they are failing. would you think that's a fair part for them to replace? as an idea. it's at 70,000kms, and still has plenty of OEM brake pad in it. car has clocked up plenty of hwy miles too.

yep... std issue ford crap. think it's the clutch release bearing (thrust bearing?) or something. go through a drive through, or sit in a garage, idle with the clutch out and you'll hear it too.

just. wow.

please, enlighten us....

obligatory pic of my first time in Victoria. sadly, Victoria the place... though I do love a good classy English accent. hnnng.

I'm in Victoria now

finding out ford want $450 for a 75k km log book service.... and then getting it done for $183 by a known mobile franchise

you know why every half done Late model camira has a cam and exhaust package? because its easy.... there isn't much need for anything more than pushrods on a car like this. and hate all you want, but those NASCAR things seem to go alright with it.

oh? not sure why you're comparing a presumably stock GTS against what I assume is your tuned GT?

13.01 1.9 60' 4 year old oem Dunlops. Stock power, stock everything, even carrying my full size spare. Some o y'all gotta learn to launch.

Hi guys, Got my stereo running some time ago, however, had the amps running on a switch. I have for now, tapped into an accessory (listed as 'mobile phone' or similar) fuse, so the amps work at all times when the key is in the acc or ign position. However, as you alll know, the factory stereo remains on when the key is off, until the door is opened. I'm trying to find the relay (I assume it must be on a relay, triggered by the door jam switch) that switches the icc stereo, but can't for the life of me find it, or a fuse that is post effect. Presumeably, the fuses are before the relay, however, I still can't find an appropriate relay! Any help?

Yeah. Trailer defeats fun like paper beats rock. You know that rock could tear the paper apart, but rules are rules, and you have to play by them Sad panda. Thinking caiguna, augusta, Melbourne. OR smash a 15 hour day to eucla/border town, then I have no idea, but relaxes day 2 and 3.

where would one find a set of scales like that! (and how far in would I have to reach to fund them) running dual axle, and will make sure the load is moved to level it out, but if I want to play by numbers... ? would have to weigh trailer, with a separate scale under the jockey/hitch? only weigh bridge I know of is in Guilford too. re the video. yeah, pretty exciting stuff. cant wait for 90 mile straight /sarcasm. going to shoot of a pic every 5 seconds, should come out to about 15 minutes of footage at 30fps.

hey strangers... long time no post... (since the yellow I guess ) leaving for vic next sunday, towing an enclosed trailer. weighs about 740kg empty. guessing it'll be up to around 1200-1500kg. no idea. tips, tricks, cautions, or hassle free? plan is to make it to Eucla/border town in a day... finish the trip in 3 days total. will likely check out the cliffs along the bite, but not too much more. any MUST sees?

Because the wee little 2 channel unit does what I want (well, it should have, if it didn't pop)

Amp is capable of running 2 channel input, while maintaining 4 channel output. When the mono amp goes in, it has a pass through function too, meaning I feed it two channels, it plays sub signal, and spits out 2 channels (non amped) for the 4 channel, which covers my speakers. I lose front/rear faded control, but can set and forget with amp gains. Lennox, I think you are missing something. The LC2i does NOT have a remote or trigger line going into it. It should generate its own trigger/remote output signal, from its 12v input, only when it senses a speaker input signal. (ie the head unit is powered up) Need to check, my amp may have that same function. As it stands it passed pits. They didn't (from what I gather, as I wasn't there) even check the car properly, yet pulled my front door window tints off, leaving me with an opaque glue covered finish, that I now can't wind the Windows down with, as it sticks to the seals. Yeaj, that's legal. Currently have quite good noise, though would like this unit to work, to see if they are all they are cracked up to be.

Very roughly, $350 per amp x2 $100 per set of speakers x2 $150 for sub $80 for LC2i (stupid thing popped) And the part that always builds up quickly.... About $300 on various bits and pieces and around 25M of speaker wire, 6M of 4ag power, 2M of 4ag ground, fuses, terminals, mdf, connectors, etc etc. Never really tallied it. But approx $1500 For me, its better than power mods.

put my standard lights back in, removed my cooler light, put the plumback line back on, all in hope to remove that yellow decal. also finished installing (for now, subs, mono amp and rear tweeters to go) my Rockford Fosgate speakers and amp. dramas with the LC2i converter unit, but have worked around it for now. this is going to do serious damage to my hearing! wow, its loud...