
pumped81
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Everything posted by pumped81
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You just tell them how much lower u want the guards to sit and they measure it and compress the spring accordingly.. comes up a treat.. ← Excelent. Thanks mate. Don't suppose you know the cost??
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Thanks for the replys guys. Is there different levels of compression? I probably only want another 25-30mm as it is already low. I dont think a regular suspension shop can do this, would I need to go to a springworks? As far as the kingspring SSSL, im sure they are only available for holdens at the moment. My best mate owns a suspension and exhaust workshop and we cant find a listing for these springs to suit falcons. He puts alot of SSSL in holdens, and it really dumps them.
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I already have kingsprings SSL in the rear of my T but want to go lower. Aside from cutting the springs, which I dont want to do, how have others lowered their T further??
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At the moment I have stock exhaust minus the centre muffler. I read lots that by increasing the flow of the exhaust I can run into overboost problems and the possibility of losing power . I also have the CAPA edit (latest I re-map I think) and use the generic 10psi map, have a bigger cooler also (same as wog cooler). Dyno'd @ 6 psi got 225rwkw a while back before I got the cooler and latest re-map (sent edit box back to CAPA for latest maps). Im guessing I'd have around 250rwkw now as the car goes heaps harder than when originally on the dyno. Anyway.. My question is.. Is there a possibitlity that I can still run into overboost problems if I remove/replace the stock cat? And im also thinking of replacing the stock rear muffler with a Genie Turbo 3" in 3" out muffler?? (my best mate owns an exhaust and suspension workshop, so all this costs me nothing). Any help would be great, as im still trying to get my head around the mechanics of this car..
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I just checked the wiring, no luck. They all seem fine with no signs of any wear. I have another question though, why would the temperature of the engine dtermine when this problem occurs? As I said in my original post, the car is perfect when cold, carries on when the temp gets to a 1/4 then goes back to normal when the temp rises some more...
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Thanks FORDTECH your a gem! I think I will have a look at that wiring connection, and maybe remove the rocker cover and have a peak. With that advice I dont think I will try to power them up myself, just dont have the resources at home. Cheers Dave
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Thanks heaps FORDTECH (and Adam) You suggested that it wouldnt be a good idea to attempt to clean the OCV's myself. Is there more to it than removing the rocker cover, as I believe they are mounted underneath the front of the cover. I realise that it will require a new gasket once removed. I will check the wiring at the front, as I can see how that could short out, that mount would become very hot and melt through the plastic..
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He isnt fixing it because he is the service manager, not a mechanic that works on the cars. Also my car isnt under warranty with his dealer, so any work done there is at my cost. Basically he finds out what the mechanics would do to my car, and I perform the repairs. Maybe I should re-phrase my question. Has anyone had similar problems, or got the same codes?
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Ok ive been having a bit of trouble with my T. When cold, it runs fine, as the temp rises to around a quarter the car starts to surge and splutter while driving, doesn't matter whether its under load or just free wheeling. It carries on like this for a few minutes then settles fown to normal. Overall performance of the car is good and doesnt seem to be affected. Anyway.. A friend of mine is the service manager for a Ford dealer (very handy) so he hooked up their CPU to my car and found the following error codes.. P1340 camshaft position sensor b P1381 timing over advance B1 P 1386 timing over advance B2 XR6T's arent a popular car down here and therefore he hasnt had much experience with them. He suggested removing the rocker cover and checking the timing sensors, as they tend to collect all sorts of grime, he said to give them a clean and this might fix the problem.. Any advice???
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I spoke to the guys at CAPA today. I have sent my box back to have the new tunes loaded onto it, hopefully this will solve the problem. Does anyone have any info on the new CAPA direct replacement intercooler? It just has it listed on the site with a price. They are $795, but there are no pictures or specs..
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Thanks Street Tuner, its nice to know that I can get some help from someone on this post... Do you suggest that I have the plugs re-gapped when I get the new generic tunes loaded?
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I purchased the Flash Tuner in September last year.
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Ok, that's fair enough. But the problem still occurs when using the 8psi map. I think it must only be something simple causing it, as it only happens when a certain temp is reached, and the car only carries on for a couple of minutes and then is fine. I am not completely stupid when it comes to mechanics, and I have done all I can to try and find the cause. It is obviously something beyond me, this is why im asking advice. I have been living with this problem, because the performance of the car using the 10psi map is awesome. The car made 235kw at the wheels the last time I had on the dyno. My only other mods are 2nd CAI and centre muffler removal. So, Street Tuner, I beleive you are the best to ask, do you have any suggestions as to the cause? Any help would be appreciated.
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I have not had the plugs gapped, it might be a solution. I really don't know enough about the engine to know what is causing it. Mine also runs fine when cold, but as soon as the temp rises it surges and causes the car to jolt, which is very embarassing when it happens as a I take off from a set of lights because sometimes it stalls, the only way I can stop it is to push the clutch in and ride it out with high revs.
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I have a capa box, and use the generic 10psi map (can't get a custom tune down here in tassie!!). Car seems to run fine except for when the temperature rises to about a quarter on the guage, it accelerates really sluggish and surges when off the throttle, it carries on like this for a few minutes then settles back to normal???? Any ideas?
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As a matter of interest wog, how many cars would we require to get this happening? Its a long shot but if I could get genuine interest by a few guys, I would be happy to try organise it.
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happy to help out and even do it at the dealers place showing him how to use the software so for future touch ups he can help!!! pitty he is not a happy dealer as cappa have been great other than there trigger happy tech rep. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> that's the problem mate, we dont have a dealer down here at all!! I know some very good tuners but know one can help me with the capa software..
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Im ready to get a new intercooler, there seems to be quite a few different options at the moment. I dont want to start an opinion war as to which one is best, I just want to know what we have available at the moment, brands and prices would be great. Cheers
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I have the edit but no one in little old tassie can tune my car!!! As far as xr6t's go I don't even know anyone else personally down here that owns one!! Let alone someone that owns a modded one!! Time to move! Wog please come help
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that's another point, it was doing it before the edit and still does it now, it doesnt matter if I run standard map or one of the others. I had the new ford flash at my last service (4mths ago).. Is there a new one?
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Hopefully someone can shed some light on my problem.. My car tends to drop idle to the point of almost stalling, and sometimes it does stall. It seems to do it at very random intervals, mostly while im sitting at traffic lights, it will also do it if I give the car a few revs while not moving. It has been doing this for some time now, but it is really starting to annoy me, the only solution I can think of is that the car is losing voltage.. Any help would be great!!
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GFB Stealth FX.. Its plumb back and you have the option of having it sound ricey, or full plumb back. It sounds awesome when its closed..
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Thanks trough lolly.. I dont like my chances either, just thought I'd give it a shot and see if anyone has seen one..
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Im interested in buying a new rear muffler to replace the standard one. I would like a muffler that only has a single 3" tail pipe but will go directly onto the dual 2 1/2" system.. Im only interested in doing this for cosmetic purposes. I have replaced the ugly standard oval tip with 2 x 3" stainless tips, but am a bit over that look.. Anyone know any mufflers that would suit?
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Thanks guys, I am running the 10psi map and it seems to be all ok. No backfiring and it is not running rough. Good thread on how to gap the plugs, I am going to leave them for now, but if I need to I will re-gap them.