Newy

Spoke to my new tuner, Its gonna go into him and we will assess the oil pressure being lower than the usual, and look at going down the track of engine out, new oil pump in and while that's happening taking the crank out and measuring it and checking the bearing clearance, then retune and fingers crossed no more issues.

My oil is always changed at the 6 month mark, it never makes it close to the 5000ks, but worrying to to hear about how it turns. Might have to look into the brands a bit

Ah I see, I run Nulon 10W40. I am going to go have a yarn with Dynolink in Townsville tomorrow, and then probably throw more money at the car. I was kind of afraid of it being the pump haha

G'day guys, I have done some research through the threads here but I am still unsure about a few things with my typhoon. Recently the head gasket gave way, that's when I found out my turbo (Precision Turbo 6766) had developed pretty big shaft play, to the point of replacement, replaced with a Precision Turbo 6466 ball bearing gen 2, my worries is my oil pressure, cold its 50-55psi at idle, and warm at idle I have seen it dip to 10psi, my engine was completely rebuilt in 2015 and I noticed my oil pressure dropped but at warm idle was always above 20psi. I run an earls inline filter and braided line that came with my old turbo from Golebys, my thoughts are either the oil pump is on its way out or am I missing a restrictor for the oil feel line. Any advice would be much appreciated

Ah cool, Im hoping my tyres hold up for a while on both. Yeah Darwin is pretty bad for anything that's not the normal big brands you see everywhere for insane high prices, some places here wont fit and balance your tyres if you didnt buy them from their shop

that's not bad, I was going to run Invos on my daily, BF XR8 but where I buy from I cant find them, but still plenty of tread left on the ones on there for now, the previous owner was running dunlop sp sport 3000s, loving those tyres

I run Nitto Invos all round, I have to say, given Darwins insane amount of rain it handles the water well, that's a good price, I have been buying mine (245/35/19) online at $288 with free shipping, even to darwin then rolling down to a tyre shop for fitting and balancing.

Its not as bad as I thought, easy to put power down in the wet which I was surprised about, but off boost it behaves like any other 6 cyl falcon.

The 15 pound tune is pretty much where it was before it I upgraded, but that 20 pound tune is nuts, the nose lifts and squats in the back and it throws you back, quickest thing I've been in. I'm even pretty impressed with the turbo being that it is huge, lag isnt too bad once your going but if I keep the revs high then punch it, it takes off nice.

I picked up my car from the tuners this arvo, pretty impressed with the results considering I live in Darwin and our air is hot a muggy, all I need is to get my hands on some E85

Fuel issues were all solved, it took the guys at Peckys 8 days to figure it all out and modify the fuel pump so it wouldn't be so restrictive. I have no issues with the Mantic clutch, my previous clutch was just organic and it held up to some occasionally aggressive "dumping" and never slipped once, I changed to a cerametallic clutch due to one of the springs in the clutch plate was slightly loose and rattling so I changed it out, this new clutch feels the same as my old one, which feels just like a normal factory clutch.

Car is back on the road and currently running a light tune at 12psi, had a few issues with the fuel pump and it having a restriction in the return line, and also figuring out the tune with a ported head. Its great to have it back and driving finally

Engine is back and mostly ready for install, just waiting on new clutch discs, but finally here, feels good having done it all myself bar the machining and stuff beyond my knowledge/tooling

So the guys down at Jack Bros got back to me about my engine, detonation was the cause of number 6 rings blowing out, and number 2's big and small end bearings down to copper with metal all through the oil, the cylinder bores only had a slight marks at the top of number 6, last little bit of head work (they are gonna port it a little bit) and then it should be good to be sent back to me for the fun task of putting it back in. Also as I suspected my turbo had some debris run through it and has cracked 2 blades and bent one, Talking to the guys at Pecky's they have seen good things with Precision 6766 turbos as there is a mob on ebay that sells a 6boost manifold and that turbo for a fair price, with the mod game being steps forward I figure time to turf to factory turbo/manifold for one of superior flow and power potential. Photos of the damaged pistons/valves to come

Engine is out, box is sorted and I will be sending it soon (Northline for around $156) I am also looking at the options of turbo/manifold replacement as seeing how the engine is out why not make it a weapon and try for the 400+ club, limited by a manual but it's not a deterrent by any way, I intend on keeping a somewhat sedate tune going but having a mental one for the friday nights when V8s are feeling fast, but for everyday driving/bike towing I have a sweet VS commo to do the duties

Cool thanks for the advice guys, massive help, should have the engine out in the next few days when I can find or build an engine box

that's good to hear it wont be a super painful experience

Pecky's did my tune but the engine has a somewhat foggy past, the previous owners ideas on the power it was making versus what I had it dyno'd at were different by 40Kw and it was almost like the knock sensors where retarding the timing, anyway once its all done I will know for sure about the engine, I will post up some pictures when it comes out of the damage it managed to cause. Thanks guys

We found the cause, I have what looks like a good 2/3s of a piston ring sitting in my intake manifold

Hey guys my Typhoon has had something metal bounce around in cylinder 6 which closed the gap of my spark plug and looking with a borescope has done a nice number on the piston, we suspect the possibility of part of the cylinder cracking off, engine is only lightly worked with the usual assortment of stage 3 process west intercooler, throttle body relocation, bigger injectors and exhaust, 16lb actuator and tuned to run 16psi on 95 in darwins wet season with 482rwhp. I will be removing the engine and sending it down to Jack Brothers in Brisbane for a set of forged internals, machine work and possibly some aftermarket cams. I am currently part way through the engine removal, just about ready to bolt the engine up to an engine crane and pull it out, since this is my first engine removal I have several questions that I cant find much info on from the Gregory's manual and from forums, so it looks like somewhat of a tight fit to get this donk out, will I be looking at running into dramas with room, I have removed the thermo fans but not the radiator. Any info would be awesome as I don't want to be screwing around with stuff while the engine is suspended. Cheers, Newy

So I finally got around to replacing my stock FPV gauges with prosport EVO's after I threw in a bigger cooler, the problem is I cant for the life of me remember where the original factory sensors plug is located, does anyone know what loom it stems from? I have a rough idea of where but alas with a stage 3 intercooler and big air box taking up all my space its hard to find anything. I've gone through everything I could find on the internet but I cant find any info or pictures of the plug or its where abouts. Cheers

Just got back from Pecky's in Darwin, 482.3 rwhp @16PSI

Update, I have changed a few things on the ol' F6, I dropped the rear suspension/diff cradle and did all the bushes myself, I bought and threw on a process west stage 3 intercooler, 4" racebox, throttle body relocation kit and had to change the exhaust through somehow the old xforce twin 2.5" system twisted and both mufflers had disbonded baffles, its now wearing an xforce twin 2.5" system with quad tips this time round, I also had it set have some dyno time at Pecky's but a few issues with their dyno saw that pushed back until fixed, I dont have high hopes for big numbers with darwins 32 degree air but as long as it can maintain power through the RPM better than its crappy tune now I will be happy. I did have pictures of the various stages of putting all this stuff on but I cant find my SD card anymore :/

Buyer backed out of buying my ute and now I don't have the heart to sell it, looks like I will just have to have a car from both stabels haha. It was running VIC plates at the time as that was the first day I got to drive my car, I bought it in Melbourne. I have seen those vac suck up some nasty stuff too, this one seemed clean enough. Have had some trouble with the turbo to mainfold bolts but I will throw some anchorlox on there and solve that issue...along with it's rubbish tune

Cheers guys, its a big difference, wish I could have both, do miss the rumble