Mac0892

They're reading normal? Well that blows my theory out the water :/ Going to have to start checking everything else now. Thanks for the info ralph. I checked codes this morning using the obd2 and torque. Had a p1131 code and a p0302 (I think). So o2 sensor reading lean and knock sensor 2 issue. This car is developing a demon

When I go there I just do it all myself usually. Perks of it being my old workshop. Always get confused when it comes to offsets and calculating the rolling surface of wheels

Jesus steve, im gonna need to find one of those videos for a good laugh. I'll have to give that site a look over nitro, thanks. I dont think the speedo reading 1.08kph over will cause too much of an issue. gota couple of people who work at ford that owe me a few favors so I can just go in there on my lunch and change it myself tbh. ford scan tools are suprisingly easy to use. and yes, they call it a PCM - powertrain control module. I just call it ECU, has a nicer ring to it. literally mean the exact same thing though

So I had my car (bf mk2 xr6t) in at work last thursday and put it on the scan tool during lunch and went for a drive since I have been looking for an issue that has been causing it to run rich and chug fuel. I threw a new o2 sensor at it and that seems to have stopped it from popping through the exhaust, but it still runs fair rich. using the scanner whilst driving, I monitored the intake and fuel systems. at idle, my map sensor was reading around 14.9psi (not sure on conversion but I think it is a shade over 1bar) and under full boost, it read that I was running 31psi through a stock turbo setup. Is there a way to test the map sensor without having to replace it with a known working one or should I just throw a new one in an see how it goes from there?

Do you reckon much would change if I threw some 235/35 19's at it? Im god awful when it comes to math. And I tried the 'will they fit' website and got slightly confused

That concerns me with what you say there nitro. I have 245/35r19s at the moment with ssl's on the front and rear. Havent gotten any guard rub yet but the new rims apparently are +35 offset so, going by what you said, they may rub. Is it an easy job to roll guards these days?

Hey guys, just looking for a quick answer here. Currently have a set of FPV argent replicas on my car and noticed that the RHR rim has a large crack on the inner edge down to the lip and running in line with the wheel. Getting it repaired on Tuesday but don't want to run around on a repaired rim for too long (not a fan of them) Looking for a new set of rims for my car and I'm wondering if a set of 19X8.5's would fit all round on a BF XR6T without having to roll the guards. For reference, wheels im currently looking at are the stance sc-5ive's or the stance sc-6 which both come in size mentioned above, but I believe the argents are 19X8.0. would that 0.5 make a difference?

the bootlip sort of looks like an after-thought when it's in the black colour. agree with above though, still not a huge fan of the front end

Hey guys Have a small issue going on with my car atm. Its intermittent at the moment though Start it up and it runs fine, gets to about 1/8 on the coolant temp dial and it start to rumble, almost like a misfire. Checked it for dtcs and get none. Drive it and it is fine, might do the same at the lights every now and then. Yesterday I was out and had the car parked infront of a store whilst I grabbed a couple of things. Started it and stood outside and noticed it started rumbling again. Metric fk tonne of black smoke coming out of the exhaust, so I think it is running too rich. It cleared itself up after about 40 seconds of this and behaved on the way home. I've replaced fuel filter, pump and plugs within the last year. Leaning towards the fuel regulator atm. Anyone experianced something like this? Hard to explain it in words but gave it my best shot. Thanks guys

Yeah, they'll be using their insurance for it. Would hate to be in their position right now. They said they might have a company that could get it done before new years but they "might use a bit more bog than other places" Quote was from the place that resprayed my front bar and spoiler

Just updating the post. Got the quote back. Including the tax, it's going to cost just over 6 grand. Right now, I am so greatful I dont have to pay a cent towards it. Can upload pictures of the quote once I get home if anyone is interested

will update when I get the costing for it. and dont jinx it tocchi. I dont want to have to spend another year looking for one that I like.

I'll be getting a quote sheet sent to me aswell but the company that hit it will be paying for it all. Juat curious as to what they'd be looking at. Crash repairers said it will require a full new bumper and possibly a new spoiler. Going to have to re-wire the reverse sensors cause the loom got crushed by the impact. Legit ruined my friday.

Hey guys Whilst I was working today, someone managed to smash the right hand rear quarter with a trailer. Got his information and his companies details, gave them a call and they will be covering all expenses. Just wondering how much this would roughly cost to get repaired, if it is possible. List of damaged items; Right side rear light assembly Spoiler Rear bumper Right rear quarter panel Right hand rear rim (small scratch, might be able to milk one) Reverse sensor wiring loom crushed (reverse sensors now in-op) Tbh, damage doesn't look too bad (see picture) Tempted to get spoiler mounting holes filled in and a bobtail spoiler fitted.

can do the regas myself so that isnt too much of an issue. trying to find a compressor for this will be fun though. think I found a place in adelaide that will do them so I'll give that a whirl when I can. thanks guys, appreciate the input

ok, first up, not sure if this is the right place to post this. my other half has a 99 hyundai excel that she recently bought as a cheap run around. she has been complaining that the a/c doesnt work. decided to shut her up, took the car in and re-gassed the a/c system after work today. after starting it, heard an insane squealling sound so I shut it off and had a quick check. looked ok, so I tried it again but watched the compressor kick in. turns out the clutch had seized and was starting to burn out so I shut it off again. if anyone has worked on these or if any of you would know; is it easier to replace the whole compressor assembly or would it be possible to replace just the clutch on the front of it? thanks guys

this sounds almost identicle to an xr8 I had the other day. had a engine swap and heavy duty clutch thrown in. turns out mounts on engine were f%&ked and dragged the whole box forward with it cause of the engine leaning. drive shaft was only half in the trans

I was always told that you have to use an earth strap on it. do you disconnect battery or anything first or just drop the pan and go for gold? not sure what its running camber wise but it is all factory bushing with lowered suspension with no camber adjust arms. hoping the kit ralph link will be able to straighten it out a little. ride height for the car is 350mm from center wheel to guard. so not overly lowered but SA regency wasnt too happy about it when it went through. although, funny thing about regency. put it through with factory BA suspension in the car and it was still "too low" for their system by about 10mm all round

Got an aftermarket head unit mounted below the stock icc, so where the tissue box usually sits. The rh side cover mounting bolt plastic has cracked. Is there anything I can do to make it secure properly without putting a new lower console into the car? Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Eventually will look at upping the hp, but want to make sure it runs smooth first. The plug on the 6speeds, need to use an earth strap before doing it, correct? Will look at doing it in the not too distant future. Replaced trans fluid and filter just over 10 months ago. Could probably put it off for a little bit so long as it doesnt leak too much out. I have to agree though. The adjustable arms seem like the better option over the 2. Seems to be replacing 2 tyres every 12 months. Just hoping I can get it into specs with them Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

there was a few when I bought it, mostly done for power. that includes; fpv intercooler, 42lb injectors (I believe), fuel pump, high flow cat and air box to house a k&n pod after I bought it, changed the front suspension, still need do rears. threw the pwr trans cooler on. other than that, just been fixing up whats split / broken really. started with the diff bushes and driveline damper. swapped the sway bar links out for new ones. all that's left for the fixing right now is the control bushes on the rear and that wiring loom on the back of the 6speeds that leaks past the o-rings then I have a list of things that I'll be doing to it once everything is fixed up

was hoping it could be an easy job for a Saturday morning. ruins that idea a little. might have to do the control blade bushes as well whilst I'm there. just need to decide between the genuine bush or go for the aftermarket version instead

pretty sure I have. was about a year ago, so its a little hazy. may have been on a territory though, they're slightly more open.

Already done the diff bushes. Threw the GT ones in when I did them. Apparently they dont split like the regulars, or are less prone to splitting. Can get the upper arms out without dropping the cradle, its just a sh*t of a job from memory Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Damn, that price is a bit high. Reckon it would be worth the money to get the full arm? Can cut out the labor cost and do in the workshop after hours or on a saturday if needed. Shouldnt be overly hard, I hope... Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk