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xlnt6

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Everything posted by xlnt6

  1. Happy Birthday xlnt6!

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  2. Obviously an efficient intercooler !!! Thanks Danny, I tried a few different units in my head to see if it made sense, but that's one I didn't try !!! So can that data capture show you the timing advance and injector duty cycle. Is that the Sniper package ? Robin.
  3. Hey Danny what units are the Boost Desired & Error in ??
  4. Danny, How do you get the thing to deliver such boost so low in the rev range ? Your graphs don't show how it builds up, it just starts at about 18psi. I'd figure at 75kmh in third gear the RPM would be around 2000rpm, and I've never seen full boost that low before. What's the trick ?? It is just done with a heap of advance? Cheers Robin.
  5. If your interested a plate upgrade that BCL is speaking of, I have one here: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=39867 Cheers Robin.
  6. The later version clutches no longer have any circlips. These were pins which came out from the flywheel and thru the intermediate (centre) plate, with small circlips on the ends. These use to come free and float around in the clutch till they jammed something up. I have attached a copy of the OEM manual for reference, which gives quite detailed drawings of what the clutch should look like. It shows the J-clips which are used to keep the intermediate (centre) plate located and talks about the rub blocks, etc which were used to prevent excessive rattle. Note, they still rattle a little !!! BTW I have a cerametallic plate which I didn't use that suits the twin plate, so PM me if your interested. Cheers Robin. F6_Clutch.pdf
  7. Well down Danny, glad you got it all together and working OK !! Enjoy... I'm really happy with mine and I think it improves the look of the interior too. Cheers Robin.
  8. Brian, Very sorry to hear about the misfortune. At least your OK, and no body was hurt. Although my wife says I love my car more than her, I know which one can be replaced, and which one can't !! Take care, and I look forward to hearing about the rise of the phoenix. Cheers Robin.
  9. Sorry about that George, I've never been flashed by anyone coming the other way. Also they are set not to point high (ie down on the road). I was even thinking about putting in another set in the hi beam lights (ie dual hi/lows) so I have 4 headlights in both hi/low !!! But I figure the hi-beam reflector will point the light up to high for low beam use. Anyway just an idea... Cheers Robin.
  10. Hey George, I've got a set of the GE Xenon HIDS. Here's some info I posted up on them, they are the Bi-Xenon H4 kit, and cost me $300 thru Richie of Equibs. Cheers Robin. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...c=32616&hl=
  11. XLNT6 + 1 Cheers, Robin.
  12. T-bolt clamps, available thru all hydraulic places (Pirtek, Enzed, etc) and decent auto shops.
  13. PM me. I have a spare one. Cheers Robin.
  14. I did. Got machining done by Rowan Ambrose at Extreme Rotaries, I made the manifolds, piping, fuel rails, etc. Just got to stop f....ing around with the Ford long enough to finish the damn thing. Cheers Robin.
  15. That's low, and with the FPV style bars you'll have some fun with driveways, etc. Looks tuff though. I had my car with SSL/SL springs and ended up raising it up again (using adjustables), the dump pipe and cat use to hit too many bumps, etc. Have a look under the rear of the car and see if you are resting on the bump stops, if you have only ten mm of travel or less you will need to cut them down or get shorten versions. If you don't and you do hard clutch dump (or hard launch in auto), you might find it will bottom out and that's a great way to bust CVs. No travel means infinite suspension rate in the rear and something else gives, a bit of tramp and bang !!! Cheers Robin.
  16. Yeah, one that has been a long time coming. I started it before I got the Ford !!! Here's a pic from awhile ago, before much of the mods, and one of the 13BT engine. Cheers Robin.
  17. No problem it's a great kit, it was made by www.equibs.com you should be able to contact them thru the website. Yes genuine Ford, got it from a Territory Ghia. Requires a bit of re-wiring though, power, gnd and reversing lights. Hypo 13B Turbo with T60-1 roller bearing turbo, and custom everything for my RX7 road registered track car. Cheers Deek, and likewise I could same the same about your new ride too !!!! Yeah agree, I'm working on it !! Cheers everyone, thanks for the great comments.
  18. Blue Courtesy Door Illumination Interior ICC/Dash Lighting I modified the ICC lighting to be blue for the majority of the controls, and white for the lower 4 buttons, Auto/on button and and temp up/down. If the temp up/down is blue it masks the red "hotter" arrow, white works much better. Also all blue is overload and the white balances it out nicely. Cheers Robin.
  19. New Dual Zone ICC in Piano Black with Pole Position 3 gauge pod and Timex gauges Piano Black and Carbon Fibre Trims Clock and Electrochromatic Mirror
  20. When I first ordered my XR6T back in 03, I wanted Dual Zone CC, but unfortunately it wasn't an option at the time. About 4 months later it became an option, but it was all too late. Well I finally have got one back on Ford and fitted it myself. Thanks to pioneers like Ninka, all the whys and wherefores of fitting Dual Zone CC have now been sorted, but I decided I wanted to highlight a few things for myself which others might find useful. I wanted to fit a piano black ICC from a Fairlane rather than a FPV/Fairmont style one. The plan was to customise the interior into a more luxury style kind of a feel but keeping the sporty nature of the T. I had earlier fitted a carbon fibre trim kit which covered the centre console, door handle trims and dash spears, so the plan was to piano black the left/right dash vents, the rear panel of the centre console, the ICC (came that way), the gauge pod and the instrument cluster surround. Fitting Dual Zone means you lose your ICC clock, so I fitted an overhead console clock (FPV style) and re-finished it with piano black as well. While I was at it, I also fitted an electrochromatic rear vision mirror and vanity mirror illumination light behind the sunvisors, as well as blue illumination courtesy lighting in the door trims (of all four doors) and at the rear of the centre console. Fitting all the lights, etc meant that I needed to modify both the passenger and drivers side main looms, as well as all four door looms and the roof loom to take all the extra wiring. I followed the factory wiring manual and just added the wires to the factory connectors and hey presto it all comes to life. While it sounds easy, it's a big job and requires trim removal, and cutting and altering your factory looms. Given that the dual zone CC required dash removal and seats out, what's a bit more when you car is in bits anyway !!! Now Ninka has detailed the Dual Zone fittment really well, so I am not going to recover any of that info. See this post http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...c=26015&hl= Here's some further info that isn't covered. You need to fit the following heater/AC box parts: 1. HIM to Motor Loom P/N BA18B574A 2. Extra Motor shaft P/N BA19K752BKT 3. Motor P/N BA19E694 When you fit the extra motor shaft you need to re-use your original shaft, but cut it down just past half way. I cut my one half way and it was a little short, but still was OK. Once fitted you now have independant air control for the passenger and driver's side. You don't need a complete new dash loom or engine loom, just a passenger door loom and mirror. I modified by factory door loom by fitting the extra wires for the external temp sensor and saved some $$. I also fitted the auto headlight function, but you need a complete new headlight/blinker assembly. I got one from a Territory wreck and took the relevant bits and fitted to my switch assembly (Territory is different as it has rear wipers as well). The sun sensor is P/N BA19E663A, and you can re-use you existing centre dash trim piece by cutting a 19mm (3/4 inch) hole thru it carefully using a hole saw. It just plugs into an existing connection on your loom. Once everything is physically installed, you need to fit your original Low Series BEM into your car (otherwise it won't start) and get to your Ford dealer. Note, you will need a Hi Series BEM to drive the Dual Zone CC. Ford will need to reprogram a few things using PDS or WDS. Namely the BEM to PCM, enable the HIM for Dual Zone, recode the Audio system, recode your ignition keys (make sure you take both sets of keys), and also your remote locks. I used Etheridge Ford at Vermont (top blokes) and it cost less than $100. Anyway, I'm happy with the results and the uniqueness of the car. I've got a few other things planned, once I get to them, I'll post them up. Pics in the next post. Cheers Robin.
  21. Well a bit of water has gone under the bridge since this post was first created, so I decided it was time for an update. I've continued to customise things, but they are more subtle than the external changes. Rather than explain everything again, some of the threads already exist, so I've provided a link to them from here. Here's a list of the most significant changes: 1. Fitting of a 4.11 diff http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...c=32079&hl= 2. Oil catch can system http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...c=31965&hl= 3. HID headlight converions http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...c=32616&hl= 4. Pole Position ECU/Fuse/gauge pod http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...c=28878&hl= http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...c=34185&hl= In the next post I'll detail up my latest changes the fitting of Dual Zone CC and piano black features. Cheers Robin.
  22. Hey Derek, Congrats on the new ride. Looks like the boy racer in you won over the sensible mid aged guy, I like your choice, the Mazda 6 MPS would have been nice, but not as much fun. So big brakes ... the 6 pots !!! ???? Excellent base to work off. Cheers Robin.
  23. Read my post here. Hope it helps. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...topic=26669&hl= Cheers Robin.
  24. I'm now a definate, put me down for 2 people for breakfast. Cheers Robin.
  25. xlnt6

    Tps

    Find the throttle body. It has two electrical connections, one goes to the Stepper Motor Control and the other goes to the TPS. The big unit (which has a small motor body sticking out of it) is the Stepper Motor control, on the opposite side of the throttle body you will find the TPS. It is a small unit that is held on with two small Torx screws and has a clip-on electrical connection. Disconnect electrical connection. Undo two torx screws and slide off shaft. Installation is the reverse of removal. Robin.
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