acclaim6

You also need to remove the door spears as there are screws there as well.

Ford could not locate which part of the box was faulty so they replaced it. Had my fingers crossed that it was the cause of all my running issues but unfortunately the new gearbox has made no improvements. From my first post the car has got considerably worse and is now at the point where it is becoming dangerous to drive. Reading on the internet the symptoms all lead to a faulty throttle body or TPS but I have had these tested and according to the Auto elec all the electrical components are working fine. He had the opinion that it is a fuel problem but I still believe that it is electrical based. I have spoken to HPF in Dandenong and am going to take it to them to see if they can identify the issue and fix. Due to the problems with the engine I believe that these symptoms where the cause of the gearbox failure,

I think the transmission was faulty from the day I bought it but has taken all this time to fail. The car is still not running right but until the other part or parts fail and give them a code Ford will not investigate further.

Finally found out what the issue with the car was. The transmission failed at 34500k So I am now waiting for a new one from Ford under warranty.

For a cheaper Torque lock try Supa F Spares in Somerton, they do a whole range of torque locks and gears for both the Late model camira and Falcons and are a lot cheaper than Harrop

I you have a diff out of a FG ute then it will be an M86. Not sure how that would fit into a BA seeing as though the ute has a solid diff and the BA would be indapendent

I had my 2011 FG N/A tuned using the SCT flash tuner. I used it to clean up the standard Ford settings not to increase horsepower. At this stage of have had the idle lowered, the transmission shift points changed, the pressure of the upshifts increased and adjustments made to the throttle to make it more responsive. Car now feels a lot more cleaner to drive with increased response through the pedal and quicker harder gear changes. All of the changes that have been made where done by driving and adjusting not by dyno. It would have been nice to have it dyno tuned so I could see what power it was making but that was just going to cost way too much. Plans are to dyno tune it at a later date when I add a Herrod air box exhaust and extractors. Car currently runs on 98 PULP fuel so I expect that it could be making a claimed 198KW and 408 NM of torque.

Ok so car is still suffering from the same faults and slowly getting worse. I have changed dealers now and the new dealer is a least intersted in trying to retify the issue. Car is still not showing any fault codes so they are thinking that it must be a mechanical issue. They are going to keep the car for a couple of days next week and drive it around with the computer connected to see if any faults appear. Reseting of the computers gives a temporary fix, but the problems genuinely resurface after a couple of weeks of general stop start free way driving. Looking forward to finding out what the issue is so that I can enjoy driving it again like it was when I first bought it.

I would spend my money putting on an F6 front bar, almost the same just alot better looking. Guessing cost and availability would be a problem though.

Have found with fuel gauge if you fill it up after only using a quarter of a tank or less the gauge does nor show full. It will reset itself once the tank is run down though. I only have a N/A XR6 but I'm guessing the Turbos could do it as well?

I'm currently in the process of putting a system into mky FG. To start with I will be using old MB Quart Discuss splits in the front doors factory ford rear speakers 2 x Rockford amps and 2 x rockford punch Subs. This will all be controlled by a Rockford 3 sixty processor and then as money becomes available I will move the MB quarts to the rear doors add German Maestro splits to the front, update to a rockford 5 channel and get some higher powered Rockford subs. Not sure on box design yet but I think I might go with either a perspex box behind the seats and the amps in the spare wheel well, or just build fibreglass boxes on either quarter.

You will never completely remove the low volume noise with line level converters unless you spend the money and buy a processor like the rockford 3 sixty. I have had a Rockford line level converter in my last car, worked really well feeding the amps with plently of voltage but the low level noise/hiss was very dissapointing. Hoping the 3 sixty processor being fitted to the XR6 will complement my system components alot better than the previous line level converters used.

I'll give that a go a see what happens, thanks for the advice.

Cold start didn't give them any idea as to what might be causing the issue as it didn't play up. Dealer suggested I take it to another dealer for a second oppinion which I have done. Second dealer adjusted the fuel settings and made changes to the way the gearbox changes and how it changes. On innitial test drive car seemed to drive a lot better, but I guess time will tell to see if it has removed the harsh changing when cold.

It's a 6 speed auto. The car has only faulted once or twice with them in it but not bad enough for them to be concerned. I want them check sensors and switches manually instead of relying on the computers. It's going back tomorrow for a cold start test so hopefully they will find an issue that they can work with.

Each time I have been back I have taken either the road tester or manager with me to show them what it is doing. I have even driven a different car to compare the differences between mine and theirs. I believe that the reason they can't pick the issue is 1, they don't take it for a long enough drive 2, they drive so many that they all feel the same to drive and 3, they are not able to drive it on the same road as I do so they can not replicate the loads and conditions that I have.

Hi Guys Hoping someone can help me with the issues I am having with my car as the dealership keeps telling me there is nothing wrong. The car has travelled 21k and the problems have been evident since about 15k and have gradually got worse. The car would thump into gear when cold, but then it started to loose power as I was driving it. At this point I thought I may have picked up a bad tank of fuel so I made the decision get the ford dealership to inspect my fuel and fuel pressures. They didn't believe that it was a fuel issue but informed me that the fuel was a little bit dirty so I decided to get the tank and fuel system cleaned aswell running carbon cleaner through the engine. Unfortunanetly this did not fix the problem and the car has now developed even more issues, it drops down gear as soon as you take your foot of the pedal, the tacho is very erractic in its operation almost like it is getting a faulty signal and at times the car struggle to produce power almost like there is blockage somewhere. Also when excellerating upto highway speeds and the gearbox is changing up through the gears there is a lag between gears almost like you are taking your foot off and putting it back on again. I have had a mate drive it just to get a second oppinion and he agreed that there is a problem so I am at a loss how to fix it. It has been back to the dealer 4 times and 4 times they have told me there is nothing wrong. It is not registering any fault codes, so they believe that there is nothing wrong with it. It never plays up when they drive it, but they always drive it with the climate control off so maybe it has something to do with that. Hoping someone can help identify what the problem cause it is driving me crazy.