bupalooga

Diagnosis was slave cylinder was pushing fluid past its seals but only leaking internally. Hence no fluid loss. Mechanic reckons there's not much material left on the clutch & the flywheel is blue so guess I'm up for a whole clutch kit now. [emoji2357]

I was digging through the forum last night and did find your comments on this. After messing with it this morning and moving all my toolboxes off, I dropped it to my mechanic to dig further. Pain to try drive as is and the problem is out of the range of my capabilities now. If he diagnoses the slave as the issue ill order all of the above^^^ parts to fit. Out of interest, I know it depends heavily on driver abuse but whats the expected lifespan of an NPC C/mix clutch? And is there a wear gauge that can be inspected looking at it? Like with tire tread?

All hoses on the master seem firm and seated fine. Pedal had a little squeek before but is now VERY squeeky, coming from under the car. Sound like something slave cylinder related. http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e6013880c1c2/videocompress-035-20200305_073027.mp4

I'll have to get upside down in there and check it out more thoroughly tomorrow, there's been no drips or anything in the foot well. Hopefully we're rained out of work and I can do it in the morning instead of fighting the clutch pedal all day lol. Vacuum bled this arvo, Spent about 20 min pumping the pedal, cracked the nipple a couple times and pumped pedal for another 20 min but with precisely 0% improvement.

Had an NPC heavy duty single plate clutch kit rated for 430rwkw installed in 2015. Which according to my expensive Excel spreadsheet included a slave cylinder. Wouldnt know wether it was factory spec or upgraded though.

I'm having what seems to be the same issue right now. Within 24hrs the clutch went from good to now having to pump the crap out of it every time to get into gear and only the bottom half of the pedal has pressure. Zero fluid loss. Tried bleeding the system yesterday but was no better trying to drive today. Just vacume bled it now but doesn't seem to be helping either. Thing is I replaced my master cylinder just 6 weeks ago with the malwood alloy one after my factory one snapped.

The zf 6sp auto are actually pretty good, deff quicker than the manual when handled by a flog like ya mate. [emoji23] An SS from the 90s maybe. The rest were probally unaware he was even racing.

For that power level valve springs are not necessary but nice to have. If your fitting them yourself then it's no extra Labor cost to worry about though. Get the tuner to install injectors when you get there. Once you install the cat and dump you have to baby it around off boost so I recommend installing them just before you go to get tuned. The rest you can install willy nilly to your hearts content. My work utes been at 300rwkw with very similar mods for about 4 yrs now.

Opened insurance renual notice from aami and reckon fg ain't worth comprehensive any more. $850 premium, valued at 16k minus 3k excess, but the value of the modified parts I can straight up bolt to a new chassie far outweigh a write off payout. Attached: pic explaining my recent diff noises. Trutrak now in but waiting for ute to come from the paint shop. Also attached: temporary work rig. Needs more boost.

Update. I eventually got the rust looked at and my god was it far worse than expected. And the believed culprit... This grommet that wasn't plugged in, most likely from yanking the wiring 4yrs ago while pulling the indicators out. Was getting welded back up today and should be getting painted next week. He took a heap of photos so I'll post some when I get em.

Once the dump & cat goes in only drive it lightly off boost to get it to the tuners or sh*t can go bang. Get the tuner to install the injectors when you take it in. I got 300kw on near identical mods.

Anyone used the Aeroflow push in -an fittings for the rocker cover? I'm using them for my fg, the rear one friction fits and goes in & out fine but the front one feels like It'll need to be flogged on with a hammer and never come off again. 0% fits by hand.

Malwood master cylinder went in last night. 0% plastic [emoji108] Beautiful! Then dropped it off today to have the rust in the passenger door sill fixed. Hopefully his autopsy tomorrow doesn't come back too dire [emoji1696]

One of those things I wish I bought before it broke. Plus found a squirt of oil in the footwell so guessing the unit it stuffed. Calling Mal in the morning to Express ship me one of their units.

Thanks Keith, I usually learn what things are called when they break and I need to type it into eBay to find a new one. But just dug up an old thread and think I'll do a little fab work and welding to fix it over the weekend.

Installed safebrake hoses & replaced the brake fluid & clutch fluid on the ute yesterday. Not a problem. Didn't do the clutch nipple extension thingy since it wasn't that hard with the cheap vacume bleeder I bought. Went to change the frayed brake hoses on the xf van though and turns out they sent 2 left hand hoses [emoji2357] & rego expires Monday. But not to worry, I still have the ute... Is what I was saying untill about 15min ago when I was stuck at a roundabout with 5pm traffic thanks to this little guy. [emoji35] Duckin raging right now! What even is this clip thingy off the clutch pedal called and can someone please tell me it's a quick n east fix [emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]

Exactly why I bought them! [emoji23] Turbo yoda said "it's good stuff" & that was good enough for me [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

Way cheaper than the big brands! Ratchet, dremmel, charger & 2 batteries posted for $105

Well my ute was half a ton over weight and occationally towed. So theoretically with that extra load it would have boosted up even quicker vs rpm & peak earlier in the rev range and mine never boost cut with cai untuned so I'd happily say those comments are wives tales lol.

I had turbo side intake, intercooler & cat back exhaust untuned no problems for about 8months which dynod 250rwkw. Cat, dump or fuel needs tuning.

Figured it would be a bit awkward. I'm mostly checking because while I can feel the nipple I can't see what I'm doing or undoing and don't want to undo something I'm not expecting. I'm just expecting a little doodle like this:

Wetsanded & clear coated the headlights on the ute & the girlfriends nugget. Will buff & refit tomorrow. JB welded the bumper back together, the strips up the side that get clipped in had split from the bumper and the corners always popped out. Dropped the 6sp manual gearbox oil and filled with 4.8l of Penrite 75w-75. My new 12v toolpro ratchet is now thoroughly lubricated. lol Will do brake & clutch fluid once my safebrake lines turn up. QUESTION: can I fully unscrew the clutch bleed nipple so I can get an extension hydrolic line made up and screw said hose in its place? Anyone done this?

Diff on my FG turbo ute is on the way out and local mechanic recommended that if I want the diff built up to try some out of town mobs rather than the local transmission place. Want to go with a TrueTrac centre, weld the diff tubes and stronger axles might even be a good idea while I'm at it? Ive got 300rwkw, tramp rods and carry an extra half ton load every day. So who are some diff/driveline companies I could contact for a quote that would do an exchange? Send me a built rear end, I'd swap it locally and send my old one back to them. I'm in rural nsw, about 6hrs from Sydney & 5hrs from Melbourne.

Have been getting ca-donk ca-donk noises from the rear end for the last 2 weeks, worse when turning left. Turns out the diff is displeased with my driving. [emoji22]

Bought an xf van, still not sure why. Barra swap maybe?