rokkie

Mechanic at a council... previously at a ford dealer for 10 years. 29 years old

Wouldn't imagine more than an hour. Depends on the dealers hourly rate. I did mine in 30 mins

I had a similar problem after replacing the uni. I put an aftermarket one in and had bad vibrations. Used genuine was better but not right. Used two nuts to space the center bearing away from the body was heaps better but still not right. Balanced the tailshaft with the IDS and was out 500mg got it down to 30mg after the balance. Very slight vibration now and all I can put it down too is the aftermarket center bearing I did 6 months prior. It has been mentioned on here to use genuine.

Thanks will look into that. What about the actuator? Aftermarket? And what brand as I've seen a few post about the turbosmart and not sure

Holds pressure with compressed air, thought it might be the waste gate solenoid so replaced that too

Hi all, as above I'm curious what you all think. Its tuned to 14psi @ 302rwkw. When I give it a boot full I notice the boost pressure go strong and hold 14psi then drops to 9psi and back up to 14psi a few times. I have traction on but no traction light comes on when it happens. Its only started the last month that im aware of. Mods are fairly standard for a BA xr6t - 4 inch dump to twin 2.5 - bosch 1000cc injectors - walbro 255 lph - plaz valve springs - sct tune (xcal 4) - pwr intercooler with stock plumbing Have not done the flapper mod as the tuner never mentioned it. So under the impression boost was controllable during tune. The dyno print out for boost was smooth with no spikes.

I rate graham west. Tune was fine for 2 months then started stalling. Left it with him for a week 10kw more and not stalling. All under workmanship warranty

Fg is inlet only (I have found fg exhuast bolts loose though) B series is both according to the manual

If the key way is missing the tone wheel/timing sprocket will slip on the crank. If it has chances are very high for bent valves. Get the rocker cover off and check valve timing on TDC.

Yes, Wiring or sensor. From memory it logs a code. We used to replace quite a few sensors. Its not very fun changing it though.

As for the auto lights. The sunload sensor is very common. Its the one in the center of the dash near the windshield

302rwkw at 5350rpm

Yep sure did! Multiple resets untill I saw that. Did you use the same colour wire as I did. Falcon was not in the list of compatible vehicles. It still registered the button pids though.

I was wondering what wire colour you used from the aswc-1 unit. I hooked it up using the white/green (module pin2) to the red/white under the column. Module detected correct head unit brand. Just programming it is a PITA.

Trim paint from repco. Went with matt finish. Pulled b pillar trim apart completely to paint.

went with black to (re trimmed). Painted a, b and c pillar trims. How a falcon should be

Had similar issue with bosch 1000's after a tune. Found heaps of rust in the fuel rail. Replaced with stainless bf rail, changed fuel reg and removed fuel pump module. Found return line in tank was blocked. Retuned and bumped idle up by 50rpm. Tuner was excellent with the help

Hey, if the previous owner had the combination switch changed the indicator cam may have been fitted incorrectly. To fix it you will have to remove the steering wheel and clock spring. There should be a white plastic cam with two flat cut outs. These cut outs should line up with the steering shaft. If not it may be damaged. We used to keep all the old switches and swap the cams over.

Thanks for the replies, very helpful bunch of people

Hi again, Tried searching for an answer on here but can't seem to find the right answer. XR was tuned on bp98 but accidentally filled with caltex 98. Question is even though the RON rating is the same should I run tank near empty (staying off boost) and stick with bp98? Thanks in advance

Hi again, Tried searching for an answer on here but can't seem to find the right answer. XR was tuned on bp98 but accidentally filled with caltex 98. Question is even though the RON rating is the same should I run tank near empty (staying off boost) and stick with bp98? Thanks in advance

Had the non genuine on for at least a year with no spacing and no issues. Only after uni change it became an issue. Hopefully this can help someone out in the future

Hi all, After peoples thoughts on the strange issue I had recently after changing the uni joint on my ba sedan. Changed the uni joint with a repco item. Once changed had a very bad vibration from 40kmph onwards. Thought maybe I had the rear section of the tail shaft 180 degrees out. swapped it 180 degrees and vibration moved to 20kmph. Spoke to a driveline specialist and was advised to replace with a genuine joint. replaced with genuine and vibration still evident. Finally spaced the center bearing down with two m10 nuts and all good now. original weights (diff flange weights) fitted back in position they came off. Will take it in to old workplace and carry out driveline balance with IDS. The question I have is why would the center bearing need spacing when it didn't before hand? thanks in advance

sweet that clears that up I thought it was a flow characteristic for each injector like a correction factor for diesel injectors. What do you mean by many companies and why would they not want the consumer to know what they are based on?

Not sure but definitely bosch http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Also a link which looks like the set I have. Funny thing is all the injector part numbers have the last three numbers covered. Each injector has a different number engraved in it??