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Repco will have a listing for it. I know someone else who has purchased one from there.

Hi everyone, I have a 2013 FG mk2 xr6 Turbo ute with the luxury pack. I've used the satnav maybe a handful of times. When I touched the nav icon tonight I just got a black screen instead of the warning screen you get on start up. Has anyone come across this? Is there a way to reset the satnav? everything else is fine.

It's interesting to see how manyeople are having tramp issues, I've only had my new ute a week and with 200kg of tools in the back I'm yet to have any tramp, when I had my Auto it was ridiculous. My cars only just clicked 10,000 so I'm hopeful that a Mal Wood kit with the stock shocks will suffice at least until I get a tune. Can anyone recommend a good suspension shop do deal with this. I've approached most well known suspension shops in Sydney and came back with more questions than answers. Now I've recently moved to the ACT I've got no idea about any one down here.

Hi guys. Since writing the post I've now bought an FG MKII Turbo ute, a manual this time as the Auto gave me the sh*ts with all the headaches I had. I'm thinking of going the Mal Wood Traction bar kit, but RO88IE where did you get the Calvert ones from?

So after a less than impressive 12 months with my original ute. I've got an ex Ford exec FG MK 2 turbo ute on the way, this time a manual with a luxury pack. To avoid the driveline hassles I had before I'm thinking of fitting the Mal Wod traction bar kit and possibly some reset leaves to cope with my tools. Has anyone used these kits before? Is the tailshaft setup the same as the Autos?

Where are you located? Sydney Driveline Seevice seem to know what they're doing, I had my shaft done by another Sydney shop, the guys a knob and the cv's had to be replaced.

I've got an Eaton true Trac in my FG XR6T ute. It's awesome, I highly recommend it.

So I've got stock leaves with Airbags to combat sag and save my tailshaft, due to the supposedly heavy load I have in my car. I'm still getting axle wrap on hard acceleration so I'm thinking of going with a stiffer rear spring and Nolathane bushes with the addition of Caltracs or some sort of traction bars. I'll also re bush the front end. Has anyone used Caltracs?

So I've not been on here for a while, mostly due to work commitments, but I've had a few issues with my ute sorted and encountered a few more. Here's the run down: Tailshaft replaced due to Centre CV failure. Diff rebuilt and true Trac added, dud Rear CV replaced under warranty. Auto serviced then promptly shat itself, e clutch issue. ford replaced with another transmission, the argument over payment continues. I've installed rear airbags to stop the sag with the constant load but it sounds like my rear cv is going again. I'm considering changing the rear end setup again but I need to do a bit more research. Been a fair few dramas but hopefully I'll sort it out. The wheel spacer look fat though !!!

All sorted, faulty purge solenoid and $100 to fix it at Peter Warren.

Mate stay away from KCDR. I had a shaft done by them in January and have had nothing but 7 months of knocks and vibrations and constant frustration dealing with them. It's only getting fixed properly now after I told Glen if he doesn't I'm going to fair trading. He's a good bloke but is too unreliable and doesn't want to deal with warranty. I spoke to Hardy Spicer initially and they didn't want to know about it.

My utes done 100,000 and the LSD has gone. I'm going for a true Trac as I don't want to be rebuilding diffs constantly. It's a bit pricey at around $1600,but its $1000 to rebuild the diff in it now so I figured I'd go aftermarket.

It seems there are quite a few variations of tailshafts fitted to FG's. My ute has (or had) the centre bearing and CV setup. When the the centre bearing let go it destroyed the centre CV too. The Centre Bearing was replaced but after driving it home the CV was stuffed as well. I had a new shaft made that has a removable uni and centre bearing that can be replaced. I wouldn't recommend using the place I went as my car has been back about four times for warranty related issues and is now only getting fixed after legal advice was sought. But if you can get someone to build you a shaft that has a removable uni and bearing its definitely the way to go.

Hi everyone, I spat a centre bearing and a front CV in my FG Turbo ute a week ago. As Ford only replace entire shafts at a cost of $1800 for the shaft plus labour I decided to ring around a few Tailshaft joints. Most of the well known places were useless, thieving bastards or both. I ended up getting mine sorted at KCDR Drivetrains in Arndell Park (nsw). I got a complete new shaft, new rear CV and Uni in the front, drive in drive out for $1100.Here's the good part. In the new year these boys will be doing shafts on an exchange basis so no need to dick around pulling the shaft out and refitting it. My car's never driven as good since I've owned it. Call Glen on (02) 9679 7747, He's a ford man and has a pretty stout Pursuit Ute so you know you're in good hands.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to book it in with Spiro at Autotech to take a closer look

Thanks bionic. Ill give it a go on the weekend. It didnt happen when I filled up this morning but it did overflow even after cutting out on the first click of the bowser. Homuch is a replacement PCM likely to cost me?? Is there no way of rectifying whislt getting a tune??

http://www.fordxr6tu...ling-with-fuel/ Heres the link to the post I made in the fuel section

This may seem like a silly question but where is the purge solenoid and these lines?? I never touched the fuel system in my BF and before that I've only ever had ED's and EL's. I put a post up with more info in the fuel section. I just want to sort it before getting it tuned

Hi everyone. I've posted this in another section but I'd thought I'd post it here after doing more research. Since I've owned my 08 FG Turbo Ute whenever I fill the tank up, and then go to start the car it runs rough and either stalls or corrects itself. Then on the second attempt it's fine. Another user here suggested that I may require a new PCM as it's holding the purge solenoid open but before I go down that road I would like to see if there's any other avenues. 1) When I first start the bowser it cuts out repeatedly as if the tank is full. Once I rotate the nozzle it seems ok 2) Fuel drops spray out while refueling 3) Even when I cut the bowser off at the first click I get fuel running out of the filler to some degree I've read several people across various models have had issues with charcoal canisters and the purge solenoid as well. My questions are: 1) Where is the charcoal canister and purge solenoid? 2) Are these items available aftermarket (Repco) or do I have to buy genuine? 3)Has anyone else experienced any of these symptoms? 4) Could it be a blocked breather on the tank (if fitted)? The problem itself doesnt annoyme but I've spoken to both the selling dealer and my servicing dealer about it and they can't seem to come up with an answer as there's no fault codes in the PCM. I'd like to sort it out before I get it flashed and start doing injectors and the like. Thanks in advance

Thanks for the response bionic, I'll look into it down the track. I'm assuming a new PCM is expensive, I wonder if its something that can be looked at when they are tuning it??

Thanks for the responses. I'll change the fuel filter and get the injectors done. The dealers are shaking their heads as it only happens when I fill up. Doesn't matter how low I run the tank either. It's a weird one

Depends how far out of whack everything is. I've had a lower shock mount on a BA ute move after hitting a lump of concrete. That was enough to pull the diff across. We unbolted everything, replaced the mount and squared everything up no worries

If you get the back up on chassis stands or a hoist, loosen the u-bolts and move the diff across the car until its centred. Mark it, measure it then re-tighten the u-bolts and you're away. Check If your tailshaft is running straight with a spirit level and a straight edge.

Measure the space between the back of the cab and front of the tub to determine if it's sittng on the rails straight. You should be able to get to all the attachment points from under the vehicle, but the tub liner just bolts in at the sides and screws the the floor. you can also measure from the inside of the tyre (or the back of the disc) to the rail on either side of the car to determine if your rear axle's off centre. If the tub's been damaged and poorly repaired it could be out of square. They don't have much support in them when they're not attached to the vehicle.

Hi everyone, I've got this problem. Whenever I fill my ute with fuel, I go to start it and it runs rough for 5 secs and stalls. I then have to re-start it and hit the throttle as soon as it fires so it doesnt stall. Does anyone else have this issue? Car's bog stock except for a Plazmaman Intake muffler pipe, it's an Auto with 61,000 on the clock. It's done it since day one and only when I fill up with fuel,The selling dealer and servicing dealer arent 100% on what it is and there's no fault codes in the PCM.