robtek

hmm, So if I rip the APS out tomorrow, do I need to replace the unit with something else? Can you define mish mash or rubbish parts? Are you just referring to the APS shi t ? I know Monza is not the best. If I throw out the APS module and end up changing the cooler in a few months then should be better? either way needs a good tune but would probably wait until I get more upgrades ready to fit.. may be a while I do love it actually.. waited a while to find a mint condition XR6T with all options, manual leather sunroof etc all in superior condition with low kms for my budget at the time, so prefer to hang on to it for another year or two, had to drive up to Bendigo to pick up the car after having it tested by two different mechanics Well first thing I'm doing is tuning it back to 10psi with the X3 tonight before it leaves the driveway... have to wait another 3months before can take to a tuner So springs are a must then?

So if I get say plazman springs, won't I need a tune? And will the T5 hold out?

2003 BA XR6T

13psi tune from the X3 flash unit Monza cooler K&N filter APS Phase 1 (the ecu only I think) T5 with worn out clutch lol Flutter BOV 130000kms on clock, very clean engine and no smoke etc All the mods were done by previous owner shouldn't the stock valve springs still be ok? what's their max rwKW? or is my beast pumping out too many rwKW?

thanks mate, yeah thought so just wanted to make sure, you never know lol, 1rwKW ..

Anyone who did it, do you know if the centre muffler removal actually made rwKW difference on the dyno??.,... CURIOUS lol..

yeah the 13psi tune was from the x3 flash unit, came with 8psi, 10psi and 13psi

Thanks for the quick reply man... I was really hoping it wasn't valve springs.. anything else it could be or are the symptoms a trademark for worked out or over sprung valve springs?

Hey guys, Had an engine rattle for a while now, thought it was a pulley, then mechanic said it was centre muffler, I've blown cats before but this time was different, so took the car to muffler joint, turned out the rattle was from exhaust heat shield cat back, so just ripped off the heat shield from cat back While I was there and already keen, ripped out the centre muffler and replaced with twin 2.25" pipes, goes a little better, and sounds a bit better than stock Anyone else done this? I know its not a full exhaust system but have mortgage and Thailand coming up so not doing mods for a while Used to have 3" twin, pacemakers, high flow cats, straight through mufflers on my old supercharged VTS but kept getting EPA fines and noise test notices, pissed me off

Hey guys.. Started a couple weeks ago, If I put my foot down in any gear and boost it, I.e. from the lights in first gear to 4000rpm, then back off or change to second and keep going, either way soon as I back off, the engine shudders and revs fluctuate quite a bit, the engine almost stalls > I've cleaned out throttle body > air intakes > plugs are still good > always run 98 > let the engine warm up before pushing it > my mechanic gave the car a look over after changing the rear diff bush and said car looks good Any ideas? Anyone have experienced similar issues? Cheers

no error codes were displayed... lol put the 8psi tune on instead of 13psi I'm used to working on older cars, pre 2000

Thanks for the comments guys, > Yeah the other night while idling the car stalled as the idle was fluctuating, but this is no longer occuring, only the other night > The car always ran fine with the 13psi tune > I've owned it since October and haven't cleaned the TB etc since owning it, needs a service > It only happens after 3000rpm > Guy before me used to always run the 10psi tune, but as I said, I've been running 13psi since October without problems, always use 98 fuel Reminds me of a time with the old blown L67 VTS, kept cutting out and cost me $800 and about a month of changing coils, plugs, plug gaps, leads, cleaning everything in the intake, injectors cleaned, fuel pump etc, and it turned out the problem was not using "genuine leads" which had a metal casing between the plugs and the extractors, obviously the metal casing was helping to sheild the spark somehow.. A Mate of mine said he had exact same issue and turned out to be turbo housing so just wanted to throw it out there.. hope it's not the cat, blown out a few in my time in previous cars, cbf upgrading exhaust just yet.. mortgage Looks like I'll try: 1. service, oil, oil filter, fuel filter 2. clean out TB, air filter etc 3. change the plugs 4. change the leads 5. change coil pack 6. sell the car (jk ) I've got an X3 Edit flash tuner, would any error codes show up for this type of problem to help diagnose?

Thanks guys Good answers, now need to work out which of the two to do, cheers!

Yeah that is true, you pay for what you get, but I just mean best bang for buck. Valid point with putting additional stress on the T5 :( I won't really be dropping the clutch (I.e. at 4000rpms) and doing many burnouts etc, just want smooth gear changes and quick take off's, so the gears won't stick anymore. My mechanic said around $600 for a decent heavy duty clutch fitted and he is generally pretty good, along with owning a couple high powered XR6T's he's pretty switched on. I'm in Cheltenham, Melbourne Thanks!

I'm 6'6 and 140kg so yeah guess I fall in to the category lol, the seat has always been like this even when buying the car though can you elaborate more on the seat base? where can I get one? how much? and easy to do or best to get mechanic to f*ck around with it ripping the whole chair out? does the whole chair need to be relpaced? Cheers