Jason87

I don't exactly know how I've fixed it but it hasn't done it in the last 24hrs I did how ever take drivers side door skin off sprayed a sh*tload of wd40 into the latch switch I also cleared the DTC and I'm now using the spare key so out of those 3 things I did 1 of them is working for now ??

It doesn't show a specific door the symbol on the BA's is the both fronts open even if it was say the rear left the symbol would still show the both fronts open so hard to say if it's the doors or maybe even the boot causing the problem but like u said might be the bem might not though might have to take it somewhere tomorrow an use a scan tool that might atleast point out if it's a specific door or the bem I really just want the chime gone all together also my cars tuned via a HP tuner so I dnt know if putting in a new bem and getting ford to reprogram it is a good idea I may be wrong but I don't wanna mess up my tune or anything and my tuner is hours away so that's not a easy task

So I'm my BA xr6t the last two weeks I keep getting the warning chime for a door being open even though there's not won't go away all my door locks are fine so dnt think it's a actuator problem might be the boot?just want to no where is the actuall chime is coming from the cluster or ICC has anyone ever removed it permanently or know how too I just want it gone for good I dnt care about seat belt chime or low fuel chime I never want to here that ding noise again I can easily remove the door open globe from the cluster or if not from what I've read online might have to replace the bem then get it reprogrammed an that still might not even be the causing the issue some drives it won't beep but then some drives it doesn't stop beeping HELP anyone? Thanks in Advance

Yer that sounds like a good plan I'll try that with a good take off an cooler weather I'm hoping to do a lot better than 11.8 I actually ran 11.5 in it a year ago when it had 100 less hp lol last night just wasn't my night

Yer I was running slicks last night I messed up the take off wasn't hitting hard boost till I was about 15 meters off the line mainly coz the first time I stalled it too much an spun so the second time I stalled it to only about 2500 but didn't let it spool up long enough an the heat was 25 degrease not ideal conditions can't wait to get back there an get the take off right I just wasn't sure bout the BTR coz the guy who built to box said never hit 4th under load so in sports mode will it aventually hit 4th say around 180km+ Coz that's what it felt like last night?????

So last night I ran my built ba xr6t 4spd 2800 stall at Calder only got 3 runs in first was 11.8 I shifted manually spun off the line abit stalled her up to much abit nervous I think second time I just used sports mode ran the same time but I'm sure the car hit 4th towards the end I thought it wouldn't hit 4th in sports mode is this correct????? And in your guys experience what is the best method shift manually or sports mode if manually what Rpm's are you shifting at it has 420kw doing test runs on the street gets no traction so I've never really been sure bout the rpm's to be honest....... thanks in advance for those who reply

So my ba xr6t has no tail lights although the brake lights work fine so far I've swapped globes relays and fuses still nothing I also followed another thread an pulled apart the steering stalk inspected all those wires none are broken every other light on the car works fine just no tail lights any suggestions I'm running her at Calder this Friday and don't have time to get a auto elec to milk me dry???

Thinking bout installing a sunroof in my BA xr6t mainly because my head liner is gone and I've came across a complete sunroof with liner everything's working it's from a BA gtp infact it's actually the whole roof of the car wreckers just cut the whole thing off so marking out the the location of the hole in my roof would be pretty easy but am I missing something? to me it seems like cut my roof out glue this one in connect up wires switch etc fit head liner an done guess I'm wondering has anyone attempted this themselves an had success any tips with glue any problems use came across etc thanks

If u buy the full assembly it is bout $400 dnt Jst buy the pump

Everyday ride 600kms a week I smash it on the way home every now an then I'll do a few stop start quarter mile runs wit the app lol or smash a Expensive Daewoo any chance I get

What I really wanna no is would the walbro be a all round better option coz the Bosch goin by plazmaman is 400kw max an the walbro intank seems to tick more boxes plus if I get bored in the future I would go the process west twin pumps an nek level everything else I'm on 350 now wit 98 with Jst the cheap walbro intank but it's at its peak

Yer true I like the idea of keeping it more sleeperish wit no surge tank an I heard the walbro is nice an quiet plus id tell the my tuner get it to its maximum then back it off slightly when I do go to surge tanks I'll go all out surge twin pumps twin entry an stuff but can't really afford to build the zf up at the moment I'm hoping wit a good transcooler it lasts me awhile on 400

At its limits as in surging abit When u hold in pinned or?

Ok I got a fg wanna hit 400 has a gtx an everything else so it's doable I recently bought a second hand plazmaman single 044 serge tank kit but rather than fit that could I possibly just run the intank walbro or will I still need a serge set up for the 400 mark?

So my fg MTA750 turbo 6boost manifold external gate upgraded valve springs cooler 4" all the way through made around 370kw on 98 started to to surge though so since then I've bought a plazaman 044 single pump surge tank kit I Jst wanna crack 400kw it's Jst my daily can't get e85 where I am will the dekas 62lb be fine for that I've heard ppl reaching it wit no probs but others say u mite need the 100lb but if it's gonna save me $600 an I'm never gonna run e85 wats the point any suggestions