Typhoon

I'll have a quick chat to my tuner on Monday get his thoughts on it. Looking at some basic figures would suggest this single is on the limit. No real surprises there.

No probs Puff, if I'm there come over and say hi. I have held it in 3rd. Its FAST! We didn't see any problems at all. Plazmaman rate the pump to 550RWKW on E85 I plan to install another one on the surge along with ID1500 for my new motor.

Trying to make next Friday but not sure as yet due to work hrs.

For those that may be interested. I just pushed my 12 year old stock BFII XR6 turbo engine with 165,000kms on it to 520 kilowatts at the hubs here in Adelaide. Motor has Atomic head studs and valve springs (801s), Gen2 GTX, 45 hyper gate, Nizpro stage 2 and Nizpro 4 inch exhaust, 460 in tank and surge with pierburg pump (E85). Early testing showed 23 psi at 2700rpm so we had some work to do as we didn't want to pump to much into the mid on a stock engine. Timing and fuel are both safe, did it easy. Unsure where the G2 GTX will go but I think 550 @ the wheels wouldn't be a stretch for this turbo. My setup had more in it, but don't want to break the motor... Just yet! Cars holding up well, good old ZF is loving it. Hope to hit the strip soon and improve on my 11.0 pass.

Your stock tail shaft will be fine for street use!

I told Kon I had a BFII XR6 turbo ZF auto. He said $2250 delivered and I'll have your shaft in your hands in 3 weeks. (note US dollar can vary) 3 weeks later it arrived and I bolted it in. I also asked him if he needed any more info from me and he said he had done these for every configuration for the Falcon, from BA onwards, sedan and ute, manual and autos, T6 and V8s. I trusted his advice and did a hole heap of research on the Drive Shaft Shop (DSS) and decided it was a no brainer. Pretty impressive US based company to be able to build this thing 17000kms away and get it right! They have never had a customer break a carbon fibre shaft, and they've been building carbon shafts since 2011, and have been building custom drive shafts for almost 40 years! If I had a guess I'd say a Hardy 2 piece would weigh almost twice as much as this carbon shaft. Kon did say a couple years ago a Expensive Daewoo Late model camira version he had done was doing a lot of dyno work and the glue had started to peel away from the shaft. It was a V8 and apparently the exhaust was running close to the shaft and it got pretty hot. From my research I understand that the DSS has now perfected the gluing process, but I still heat wrapped mine just to be safe. Things can always go wrong when playing with cars, but I don't see why you'd bother with any other shaft for our Falcons. I plan to drag race it in Jan so I'll get a chance to compare the MPH compared to my stock shaft.

Bolts in without any problems at all. No clearance issues, no vibrations, no problems. Car is very smooth to drive and surprisingly faster. Very noticeable increase in acceleration, especially in the top end. It came in at 2kg lighter then the OEM setup, so it must be many kg lighter then a Hardy two piece. 2Kg lighter is not doing this shaft justice, its the balance and the smoothness that you just can't explain. The car is significantly faster! When the tyres hook up after wheel spin you feel this sling shot effect, almost like a spring has been released in the drive line. From all the modification I have done to my car up to now this is by far the most impressive. Happy to answer any question.

The shafts arrived and I've installed it. Pretty impressive! I'll post some pics shortly. View the whole album here with some descriptions-> https://imgur.com/a/bNAfn

On Tuesday my carbon fiber tail shaft will arrive from the states. Direct bolt in and rated to 1500hp I’ll post up some pics of this one piece unit when it arrives. Cost me $2250 delivered and should weigh half as much as any 2 piece Hardy can build.

If your here to help could you find the time to answer my question Jet? I realise I did not choose to spend any money with you, but I have been a forum member for almost 13 years now.

**Update** The head is not leaking coolant. Its just oil. This motor leaks heaps of oil, main seals head gasket power steering pump etc. I have had the car re-tuned. 440kws @ the hubs 17psi. (ZF BFII full Nizpro stage 2 plus kit + GEN2 GTX3582r + surge + E85) My issues were tune related.

I made 420 RWKW on 98 fuel with a ported flapper and a .70 front housing. CHRA was Factory standard Motor was a built Nizpro stage 3 engine with a little head work and full stage 2 + kit. I guess it could have made 480RWKW on E85, but I never tuned it on ethanol so I'll never know. Motor made 710HP on Nizpros engine dyno on 98PULP! I believe arronm figures as his car would have had more or less the same spec engine and turbo as mine, as they were both built at more or less the same time. A 100% factory standard turbo would not do high 400s even on E85, at least that's what I have come to understand, but I could be wrong.

Thanks heaps for the input guys - I'm going to think about my options. Cheers

Yes I could get away with just doing the head gasket but I would want to re seat the valves, do some porting, valve springs, and head studs if the heads coming off. At that point I might as well build the motor. I think you need to remove the engine just to do head studs, not sure if you can get the head on with the motor in the car.

Nizpro built me a motor a few years ago. Engine was strong and made heaps of power. We had a few problems, but Simon gave good service and I would get another motor from Nizpro again.

His also super busy and very hard to get a hold of cheers for all the input felles

Nah it would be Atomic, Nizpro or maybe even Dion Amato Lewis Engines here in Adelaide might be worth having a chat to as well.

Thanks Puffwagon Car has 160000kms on it. I could go ahead and do the head but I guess I wont know if the block needs decking until I get it apart. If block needs doing then is new engine time and I have to work out who I can trust to build me an engine, I'm in Adelaide. With my current setup car can make 550RWKW on E85 (capped at 410 now) so plan was always to build the motor anyway. Cheers

^^ I tend to agree. I don't however think its burning coolant as the plugs look really good, everyone of them and no white smoke at all from the exhaust pipe when cold or hot. I think it maybe pushing some compression out the side of the block causing the erratic running and the oil/coolant leak, as their is no evidence what so ever of the coolant mixing with the oil. However you would assume the cooling system would be getting pressurised if this was happening. I wonder if I can get away with just doing the head or if its new engine time

coolant is pretty clean - no signs of oil at all

More 12 around 4000RPM holding half throttle right through the shift.

Hi guys I was wondering if you could provide some feedback on the picture below? First 3 cylinder seem to be leaking oil and coolant as this area was d-greased and clean 5 days ago and now this has appeared. Cars running inconsistent and is not liking part throttle up shifts, pop pop pop from in the engine bay area, coolant level is slowly dropping but not mixing with the oil. Car pops hot or cold at part throttle (50%) up shifts , all the usual things have been checked and are fine, coils, plugs, hot and cold side bolts, no vac leaks. Could be tune related as car was E85 tuned in December and its much cooler now. Is this weeping kind of normal or is the motor done? Thanks

Sounds like you have checked the basics up to now. Have you considered removing the boost pressure sensor and cleaning it or at least having a look at it? The part looks like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-BA-BF-FG-MK2-FALCON-SX-SY-TERRITORY-TURBO-BOOST-PRESSURE-SENSOR/291215473643 On a standard BA xr6 turbo it will be located on the intake pipe near the battery. If this is faulty it could cause the problems your describing. Should have a trouble code associated with this type of sensor failure, however with a tuned car who knows. Sounds like a waste gate problem Good luck mate

Hi Snails Pace; In my experience an air oil without a fan should be fine. I'm running 410RWKW in a BFII XR6 with 155000kms on a stock trans with this setup. Trans shifts great in all conditions. But fluid level must be checked and correct after fitting a cooler. I have an Auto meter trans temp gauge installed. It never runs hotter then 210 °F, and that's after a real flogging or a hot day in bumper to bumper traffic. My cooler is mounted behind my Nizpro intercooler and in front of my air conditioning condenser. Front and center of the car. Its not a massive cooler. Generally speaking my trans temps are between 120-180 °F in most conditions. In winter cursing at say 60 to 100kmh it will sit at around 110-120 °F nice and cool and within ZFs operating temperatures as noted below. From another forum By Email: Hi George; Normal transmission operation for ZF 6HP26 is between 30 – 120 degrees C. (86 - 248°F) Before 30 degrees C we have warm up strategy and after 120 degrees C the transmission will enter high temperature strategy (Hot mode). Oil checking overflow level is a 40 degrees C and depending on climate normal transmission oil sump temperatures can vary between 60 and 100 degrees C. I don't see any issues with the temperatures you are talking about providing the oil flow to the transmission has not been restricted. As your operation temps are lower I see this as a benefit for extending the service life of the oil. Kind regards Your ZF Service Desk ZF Friedrichshafen AG 88038 Friedrichshafen,Germany Context - http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2482702 My trans oil temp sender in not in the trans sump, its mounted on the car in the engine bay http://www.autometer.com/2-trans-temp-100-260-f-fse-cobalt.html# http://www.autometer.com/temperature-manifold-adapter-for-3-8-o-d-tubing.html The oil temp is read before its cooled so I'm always getting an accurate reading of trans temps. Hope this info helps Typhoon