Typhoon
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Posts
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Everything posted by Typhoon
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of course it will when you vent both to atmo the pcvV is deleted and obviously the cranks not sealed. if you run a three port can to draw just after the air cleaner and before the turbo. the pcvV is also deleted becuase its not used. How wont it work? of course it will.
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Assuming you retain the pcv then yes. But when going for big power and boost you have to delete the pcv. The oem setup wont flow enough through the vent at WOT so the pcv has to go. PCV systems are a sh*t design and have no place on a hard core engine setup!
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Yes this is the correct way. The check valve would be used if you dont have a blow off valve because it would return to the compressor housing and would have the potential to enter the catch can. You would never plumb it to a boosted section of the system.
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You can run both to the one can and then vent it. You generally should increase your lines if this is the method used as no vacuum assist means the motor will only be able to exhaust as much as your lines can flow. A full plumb back system will most likely need a check valve or two installed. If you run both to one can and then plumb it to the turbo you will be ok if your running a blow off valve, otherwise a check valve would be a good idea at the vacume hose to turbo. The setups for these cars are a little hit and miss. Dion Amato tells me the Barras not as bad for crank case pressures compared to RBs and 2JZ motors.
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The 1.15 is a bigger housing so might be why it works. Im about to see if a 3584RS will fit my 1.06 that is set up with external gate. If it works, I wouldn’t expect to see much more power then my 3582r, just might do it a little easier. Im hopping we go 560rwkw on it, will see. Should be about right for the 3584RS
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Puff GCG do sell the GTX3584RS on a T3 rear. https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-3/turbochargers-bolt-on-upgrade/ford-falcon-ba-bf-gtx3584rs-gen-ii-turbocharger-upgrade-detail I agree the new G2 turbine wheel is upgraded from G1 but if you look at the turbine wheel specs as listed on Garrets website you will find the Inducer, Exducer and trim values are identical to the GTX3582r. On paper a GTX3584RS with a 1.06 T3 rear would only be slightly more efficient then the 3582, and this is only on the compressor side thanks to the 0.72A/R. In fact technically when you do the numbers the trim is slightly smaller on the 3584RS at 63.61 vs 64.74 for the 3582r, again on the compressor side, any real HP gains you would see on the 3584 would be from the much bigger rear housing (vband) rather then the front cover when compering it to a T3 bolt up running 1.06. Fark all in it, and both turbos are outside of there efficient map range. At least that's how I see it mate, have I missed something?
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Obviously wont be to small for 450rwkw If you are serious about heading towards 1000 then the turbo you choose will be the least of your problems man!!
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Easy decision, on a stock motor its irrelevant. What exhaust, what size? Which cooler? Type of pluming, size etc? These are your issues not the rear hosing! Just buy a GTX3582 G2 with the smaller housing and your good for 450rwkw on 98 or E85 providing you have the supporting mods! Your stang will fry tires all day no matter what you buy!
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3584rs flows more through the comp wheel/housing the rear turbine is the same. More up his sleeve will be more of a factor regarding head flow and cams or the ability for early boost delivery, somthing you dont really wont on a stock motor. On a stock motor that revs to 6000 the over all differences between 82 and 84 will be determined by supporting mods rather then which turbo he chooses. go the 1.01 I say, better for packaging and she’ll still go over 800 all day. 1.21 will be irrelevant in a 1200kg car with a 3500stall.
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450rwkw and 1200kg = smoke no matter what rear housing mate!
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At 3500 you would be right in the meat of it. 1.01 will still be very strong in the top end even for a 35 frame. I have not used the 1.21 but would not expect much lag, I would at a guess still expect around 20+ psi by 3000rpm even with the larger rear housing, providing you have good supporting mods. Engine load determines boost also, so just cruising at 3500 would not be the same as WOT, I see JETURBO reading this thread I'm sure he can provide more input.
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That turbo with the correct supporting mods and the smaller rear housing will make 850hp genuine. Maybe more!
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Process West surge tank, FG manifold & FG TB elbow
Typhoon replied to OZYWALKER's topic in Classifieds
Mate what will you upgrade to? This fuel system should go 650rwkw on E85. You must be chasing more power I can only assume? -
^^ agree
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R&D mate! But yes, not much point really. Can always scale it out - in theory at least. Nizpro are no joke and in my opinion still have the best kits for these cars. By no means are they perfect, but you can bolt thier kits up and go 500 plus with ease. Generally speaking 500 @ the wheels is always going to cost you about the same amount no matter which direction you choose to go. Start adding all the parts up, labor tune etc and theres not much in it.
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Mate do your thing and don’t over think what you read on forums, it’s a mine field out there and no one build is the same, or owner has the same circumstances. I have found that each tuner, work shop, machine shop etc have different opinions on everything, and at the end of the day all want to sell you somthing. Think long term, be honest with your self and make decisions based on logic, research and your budget. Im not ready to build a motor, so cams and head work are of no use to me. If you have the bottem end and the budget go for it mate! Barra the world!
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A correct port job on your head and cleaning up the valves wont hurt at all. But it’s just not a requierment when chasing big power. On a 100% stock head just add valve springs and your good for 800 to 900HP. Its all in the efficiency of your supporting mods. A good port job is not going to give you the benefit you may expect if you have a poor exhaust or poor intercooler. My motor is 12 years old with 165000kms on it the only engine mod is valve springs and head studs. I pulled the head off did a stock reco, new OEM gaskets put it back together did a new timing chain guide and went 524rwkw. Heaps of guys in Australia going down this path now. Use as many stock parts as possible and you will run into less problems. I also buy genuine Ford replacement parts. Adding cams is costly and complicated when spining these motors past 7000RPM. Stock bottom ends wont like that RPM for very long and you will also need to think about installing solid lifters over 7000rpm as well. Keep it simple and you can have a street car that will run with 1L street bikes!
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Its pretty cool when we can call an 8.90 pass in a 4200 pound rd car NOT a drag car. lol Dion Amato spins his barra to over 11000RPM - now that's a drag car! I think his at 50+psi Barra the world!!!!!!!!!!!! Nemz at Cuda could only manage 11.1 I think the new standard for these falcons will be to see if we can go 400kmh. They make more then enough power to get that weight to that speed
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Also... Trap speed indicates correct mph for lets say 6800 to 7000 rpm for the proven 158mph the car has run. look into the ZF 4th gear ration and diff combo and you will find its correct.
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I don’t have 100% proof of that. But ALL the info on the net I have found has always stated stock cam and head. Even on the 40+pound 8.90 pass motor that Nemz and his mates built! I believe it All on board footage would also indicate around the 7000rpm mark
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Nemz made 850RWKW on stock head and cams! Revs to 7000 - Obviously upgraded the valve springs. 158MPH in a 4220lbs car.
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ZF turbo T56 internet mine field! Good luck!
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It’s the internet!
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Evidence - wow - it’s the internet! You break an input shaft or you dont - ZFs are tough; but inconsistent. It’s obviously a half shaft!
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Unbelievable - This is why I hold back from posting!
