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Typhoon

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Everything posted by Typhoon

  1. 1 crank will fit 2 don’t need to port the head 3 install a torrington bearing kit, all other bearings will be fine 4 run a 9 to 1 compression ratio 5 send it!
  2. Good to hear that your stalling problems have been resolved. Could you post up a data log of the original problem? PM me if you prefer. I am keen to see if you were indeed having ignition timing problems. Doubt it.
  3. Good luck with it all mate, hope you get there and solve the problem. I run a B&M supercooler between my radiator and intercooler and just use my thermo fans to provide the cooling. Works ok, could be better. Was simple and easy for me to make fit etc so I just went for it. Puff I think its clear in his posts even though he is not writing them well, that the cam timing is not the issue. We all know that if this out more then a few teeth the motor wont run and you may even encounter piston to valve clearance issues. As I understand the post, they seem to be struggling with the variable cam timing advance and retard control of the inlet and exhaust cam phases. If you lock the cams at X degree for both inlet and exhaust then the VCT control issues will no longer be there, and if this is the problem it will be solved.
  4. This was happening to me as well. I managed to stop the stalling after I installed an oil cooler and went to a 20w-60 oil, but maintaining target cam angel was still problematic, so the cam angel was fixed. Solved all my issues.
  5. I do see he notes the issue was there on his stock motor too, which is not that uncommon, phasers can malfunction due to lack of oil changes and many other reasons to on a stock engine. If the actual cam timing can not be controlled and all reasonable attempts have been made to fix it. Locking the cam timing will solve the problem. The problem wont be there any longer because the cam angle physically can not change due to the lock outs being in place.
  6. So yep they’ve tried all that hence my advice to lock the cam timing.
  7. Whats the solution if you can’t control the cam timing? Power output has absolutely nothing to do with target cam angle and how its controlled. Cam shafts, phasers, and VCT solenoids don’t care if you have 320hp or 1000hp. The motors built. What oil pump is in it? Whats the relief valve set at? Have the oil galleries been modified? Are the big end clearances a little loose? All these things can effect VCT control. Just my experiences K31th, and unfortunately if you can’t tune out the problem, then mechanical locking of the cams is the only solution. what would you suggest?
  8. As I mentioned the cam timing was fixed and the problems went away. The motor also produced more power and performed more consistently. In my instance it was just more gains everywhere. If your having these issues just lock the cam timing, problem solved. It could be oiling related, and it just might not be able to be tuned out as such.
  9. I have experienced similar issues and we decided to lock the cam timing. All problems instantly solved. Haltech plug and play too.
  10. It’s mostly normal. Just the lockup playing up a little. Oil change probably wont fix it. A relearn may help, or a new stall convertor.
  11. The broken crank pictured saw a max of 710kw @ the hubs. It broke 1000 kms later.
  12. Yep been done before.
  13. Back in the day who knows why it broke. Simon held the view for a long time that these cranks were questionable above 7000rpm and that the BARRA had inherently poor harmonics. Clearly things have moved on. The broken crank pictured was a manual car and the crank was advertised as an almost 1000kw capable crank. I have seen an N/A engine with a broken crank shaft right through the middle of the crank, nothing odd about the motor, a relatively clean average km motor. These cranks break, it’s just guys and shops don’t talk about it. I have heard of others too but only ever seen three. For a guy on a budget build then heaps of power can be had on a stock crank, but if it was to break I personally wouldn’t be surprised.
  14. This crank was also treated to hold 1000hp! My brother’s crank broke at 750hp on Nizpro’s engine dyno 10 years ago. I know of a stock N/A crank that has also broken in half. Its just a roll of the dice. I have 1000rwhp and run a billet crank. As Keith said if you don’t have a budget for 1000 wheel then maybe you should lower the expectations a little. 1000 at the wheels is also a hell of a street car and not really needed to be honest.
  15. I know of a dead stock TCM tune being used on a $10000 built box. 850hp engine. All the “tuning” as such is done from within the Haltech!
  16. Im not completely across the PCMTec stuff but I can tell you that line pressure can be adjusted through the modification of the torque model table within the Haltech software. Shift point load can also be adjusted along with torque reduction responses. You cant adjust shift schedules or overlaps. You can’t adjust any torque reduction requests. That needs to be done directly through OBDII writing to the TCM. You can turn off torque reduction although I think this is ignition cut for smaller reductions rather then larger cut requests. If you run a stock rev limit and run a stock TCM tune you can actually make some changes using the Haltech. Although this is not directly writing to the TCM, its just modifying advertised torque data to the transmission to get it to respond differently. Im hearing some of the best ZF tunes run surprisingly stock files. Im curious to know how the PCMTec stuff writes to the TCM through the ECU? Or is it a direct flash to the TCM.
  17. I just removed the cam, had it linished and reinstalled it. Installed the same cap and all good. I personally don't think engine out is required for a galled cam. It's likely cause by debris left in the engine after assembly. Galled cam bearings are not all that uncommon although not ideal of course. Please don't pull your motor out for this. Added links to uploads as unsure if they worked etc.
  18. I had the same issue. I linished the cam shaft bearing and re-installed it. Even ran the same cap, when I have a spare minute I’ll post a photo. inspected it a couple hundred kms later and no problems. Oil pressure is fine, engine runs wells.
  19. Puff it just looks like lobe damage there, bearing looks ok. Not saying you could leave the cam like that but you may just be able to swap out the cam. Some scoring on the journal’s wont be the end of the world, and caps will be ok to reuse. This damage may not have been causing your issue.
  20. Replacing both Phasers is a bit of work. Ensure no oil flow restrictions to the phasers first. Inspect cam caps on top of each phasers for blockages. Obviously the OCV screens were clean. Phasers can make noise when they are stuck too. Good luck mate
  21. So to have both Phasers fail together is less likely but possible and would show a static angle as described. Start with the solenoids first. The cam angle should vary more than -10 for sure.
  22. Log cam angel vs target. I had a dead cam phaser which caused the symptoms you’ve described.
  23. Your long term goals could change mate. Sounds like you need rods pistons oil pump gears and valve springs. job done.
  24. Experts in Adeliade ? lol
  25. My hub dyno sheet reads 775kw No one has broken a set of 1400 shafts in Australia to my knowledge. RIPSS has run dozens of passes on hers and I’m pretty sure she has gone 1.3 in the 60
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