KBB

I like that "gone up in flames comment". Its ironic, cause there is so much water on board that thing that it would have the equivalent fire extinguishing capabilities of your average MFB vehicle! KB

Watching the video its hard to tell are you running a 3 speed auto like a C4 or still using the 4 speed auto? For all the doubters, Its not peak power that runs the times but the average horsepower generated throughout the run that is important. As the power curve is undoubtly FAT from 3000rpm, the average horsepower figure would be relatively high.

Its not the cheapest but you get what you pay for where Nizpro is concerned.

You have to appreciate that the car with driver will weigh up to 1800kgs, and can reach moderate speeds at the track. Given the combination of speed and weight you need some serious brake hardware to repeatedly pull up the car. Unfortunately, the standard brakes, whilst they may work ok on a 1000kg car, will die very quickly. There really isn't a cheap way out given these factors.

usually occurs best without any BOV at all. Sounds better than pshhh I reckon. Anyway, it is only really a serious issue with applications running 2 bar plus, as far as damage goes. It occurs as a result of a sudden deceleration of the shaft, its boosted air trying to come back to where it originally came from prior to entering the turbo.

just because it has GTR on it does not mean it is not a riced up non turbo GTS or GTS-T with a GTR badge. GTR is actually a 4WD vehicle, so the only way they don't get traction is where they have 400RWKW and poor driving.

the T56 is rated around 500 lbs/ft but by most accounts they will handle a fair bit more than that.

I guess the boys at Ford aren't keen to sell you one of the sedan prototypes!

try a little bit less gap you may have a slightly weak coil in there letting you down. Go down to .7, you won't lose any power. If it doesn't help then just go back to .9. .9 is still quite a large gap on a turbo car. 1.1 gap is really way too large a gap because as the cars get older and the coils become less effective, even on 5 psi cars will probably start breaking down (ignition not literally) a bit.

11.03 - so painfully close, well done. calder is not ANDRA sanctioned so you don't need to meet any ANDRA specs (cage for 10.99 or less) and you can run as fast as you want and won't be asked to leave. Mid track ET/MPH suggests 128 - 130 top end and certainly mid to high 10. sort out a decent fuel system, ie one without a walbro pump in sight, and you'll be killing it. I'd suggest an 044 lifting to a surge tank with two 044s running the fuel up to the front, into a twin entry rail with centre discharge, to avoid leaning out at the end of the rail. A single 5/16 return is usually ok but may need to increase to 3/8 given the volume two 044s pump. ALthough not the best setup for keeping the fuel cool, return line should go back into the surge tank to ensure it stays full, then the return to fuel tank out the top of the surge. I have experimented with all of the race fuels and find VP C16 the best, but only if you lean out the mixture .5 AFR. Anything below 12:1 on C16 and probably other C series VP fuels and you lose alot of power, the ignition seems to struggle to ignite an overly rich mixture of C16, even with a hipo CDI ignition. Tuning recently with C16 leaning out from 11.8 AFR to 12.3 netted a jump in RWKW from 470 to 540 - not on an xr though . Hope this is of assistance. KB

From what I have seen of his work on his turbo 308 torana (9.1s @ 150mph) and turbo VL walkinshaw I would say he is very good.

the last thing to blow up from preignition would be your turbo unless a piece of piston went through the turbine

I think you'll find that the cars that have thrown legs out of bed, that the factory assembly line workers forgot to do up one or both of the rod bolts nuts or that the forging or casting metal was ridden with impurities that they have now realised, cause many NA's have done the leg out of bed too, but the problem seems to have resolved on later builds

That's a big call cause if either of those goes out of acceptable range your engine will be f*cked. If you were on a curcuit at high rpm for long enough the oil pressure would remain acceptable even where the oil was superheated depending on the efficiency of the oil pump.

T56 is pretty strong, the official rating is a bit lower, but unofficially 800nm is no problem. There are plenty of TT LS1's and turbo mustangs and vipers that use it running 9's and 10's and they don't ever seem to complain of blowing them up.

Macka, I think you'll find that the standard turbo is running out of flow potential at the top end hence the boost dropping from 18 psi to 15 or 16 psi at redline. KBB

Great result. From the graph looks like it could use some cams to stop the 5200 onwards drop off and maintain that 500hp for another 1000 - 1500 rpms. Did you get a chart with boost curve on it? Does the boost hold at whatever psi you are running or start to fall off in the top end? Looks like the Edit can pull the results, just needs some skilled tuning, something that has apparently been lacking until recently.

I am surprised it was on so tight from the factory, mine was so loose that if it were any looser it would have fallen off, same with the sump plug.

New car, available from the floor right now.. Otherwise we'll get, oh, Datsun 1200 ute with a turbo rotary, 11.0's all day for under $10k.. Try R34 Skyline, $100k for 11's.... nice, if u can have it.. ( no R35 yet, so no comparo..) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's why I bought an XR6T...

R32 GTR despite being a bit old is probably best value for money for all rounder performance. For $20 - 25K plus 10K mods you are looking at mid 11's and they handle and stop rather well too.

09/04 Build 2nd CAI, centre muff removed Standard problems only: 1. shh shh handbrake noise 2. vibrator steering at low speed 3. Turd5 gearbox 4. Dana clunkmatic diff 5. Occasional stalling for no reason 6. Engine light/loss of power goes away when you turn off and start again KBB

The only problem with the satndard exhaust is the cat, the twin 2.25" pipes flow alot more than a single 3" pipe.

Motec M800 will definitely wash your dishes, it is that good!

[ Sorry Dags, after further "behind the scenes" research, where I work will not allow the warranty replacement of a T56 in exchange of a T5. Sorry for any confusion. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> When my T5 blows up within the warranty period on my standard car I am going to sue Ford for a T56 conversion or TR3650. It is about as a sure bet of a case as I can think of. I will get an expert to give evidence that the T5 is inadequate in the application, won't be difficult to find, given the body of information available and number of problems people have encountered, and when I win it will pave the way for all you guys to get the upgrade for free. I'm sure Ford will settle with me before the case gets to Court though and replace my box with what I want, because it will cut everybody else out from riding on my coat tails.

Hold up a minute, the ET has nothing to do with the power level, only MPH is an accurate indicator of engine power, with the ET there are far too many variables, auto v manual for example then gearing, wheelspin, shifting, 60' and so on. However, when considering trap speed and rwkw, if you plot a chart of all the power figures and trap speeds being posted up and the ones people include in their signatures, you will notice a very predicatble relationship between the trap speed and rwkw figures: ie stock 180 -190 rwkw 100 mph several 240 rwkw 106 - 108 mph 250-260 rwkw 110-111 mph 270-280 rwkw 112-114mph 297 rwkw 115-116 mph geea 330 rwkw 120 mph the thing to take out of this is that if you are running 111mph, you would expect that you have around 250 - 260 rwkw. The other thing about the trap speed is that provided the car is accelerating at full throttle throughout the run, the trap will be very consistent despite a pathetic launch, bog, wheelspin, misshift, because whilst these things take time (and effect the ET) all of these thing mean the car is not travelling as far or fast (distance wise) and hence there is still track to make up the MPH. When you have a really quick car, there are so many things that screws your ET up, esp a manual, but the trap speed will usually be within 1 mph each run, with up to a 3 second difference in ET. Ie: These are real runs all on the same day street tyres 12.9@129mph street tyres 11.9@129mph less tyre pressure DR's 11.9@129MPH bog DR's 11.7@129 tyre pressure too high/wrong launch rpm DR's 10.9@130mph perfect run