Cam

I'd be up for one also

And here is a shot of the "guts" of the controller.

Sorry to those who have been waiting for me to post details but I've been busy writing installation instructions for the module I've designed. This control module plugs inline with the existing electric window motor, using the existing connectors and the existing switches. It takes control of the window allowing fully automatic up and down operation from electric windows that do no have automatic operation capabilities. The features are: Connects in-line with existing window motor Easy installation Easy removal to restore original operation Automatically drives window to its fully open or closed position A single module will allow automatic operation from both the drivers window switch and the passengers window switch. Windows that are already fully automatic do not require a module A module is only required for those windows that you desire to be fully automatic. Can be stopped part way up or down by a short press on the window switch in opposite direction Will stop motor if window becomes jammed Over voltage protected to protect the module in case of a voltage spike Reverse polarity protected to protect module from incorrect installation Inputs are protected to prevent damage to module Draws <1uA (< .001 mA) when in standby mode Draws 30mA (+ window motor current) when in operation Operation: To open or close window fully press and hold window switch for 1 second. Window will stop automatically if it reaches the top or bottom or if the window mechanism becomes jammed of if the window is obstructed or if the window fails to reach the top or bottom in 10 seconds. To stop window part way up or down press window switch for less then 1 second in opposite direction. This is a photo of the module beign held in position (to give an idea of scale).

This is a photo showing the inside of the drivers window switch. The SMD LEDs and Resistors are in the photo - but are very small and hard to see - but they are there

There is a photo of the instument cluster and window switches lit up.

On the harness side which ones have wires in them??

Hi Rocket. I will post a picture later (dont have the camera with me at the moment) But looking at your picture I'm afraid you are out of luck with the SMD LEDs... they arnt catered for with your switches. I would also hazzard to say that your drivers window does not have the "Auto-down" function that the sedans do..pretty poor effort Ford, I wouldnt expect such a difference between the sedan and the ute. Rocket can you post a photo of the wiring harness whenre it plugs into the back of the switch - you may still be able to do someting - but it wont be easy... FYI - the switch you have posted is exactly the same as those supplied in XT sedans without the rear power windows..... (I pulled one apart on a rental I had for a week)

Free is an interesting concept on a new car! Its all in the way you approach the dealer. I, for example, tell the dealer what I want they add it up and then I bargain on price. This way nothing is "free", but since I got a few thousand off the price I guess it could be considered that I got a whole stack of stuff "Free". If I had asked for the extra warrenty in my deal for "free" then their best price would have been more then the best price without it. Its all about perception... Anyway that's off topic - The price I have been quoted to purchase it seperatly after buying the car is $890. If you buy it with the car you have to pay stamp duty on it. Also if you buy it seperatly you can claim it as a tax deduction in the first year rather then depreciating it along with the car over the next 5-6 years... Also since you have 3 years until you have to pay for it the money is better off in my bank account for 3 years rather then Fords. Also I figure that if I plan to go down the modification path (and I dont plan to at this stage, tbut the lure of extra power may be too great in a couple of years) there is probably not a lot of point paying for an ext warrenty just for Ford to decline any claim due to the Mods.

The price will be around the $890 mark. You dont havre to buy the extended warrenty before purchsae - anytime before the orriginal warranty runs out is fine. I plan to buy the ext. warrenty towards the end of the standard period.

Fair comment but if Ford kept AU for 4 more years I think they might by umm out of buisness. If somethings that bad the of course you change it. The new BMW 7 series is poin t in case - it was changed substancially in its first face list...

I hope not - I will be really pissed if it doesnt come up looking perfect.

So dbasteve are you suggesting that the DBA rotors do / will fix the problem. If I get the problem before a solution I had intended to get DBA rotors all around, the suggestion that they dont work has given me reason to think that it may not be a good idea.

Ive had a few problems all minor - nothing that hasnt been able to be sorted by the dealer quickly. Even taking the problems into account I would still buy the car - still smiling everywhere I go. Handling is almost as good as my 3 series BMW with sport suspension and the power is awesome.

Sounds good - lets try to make it just the one cruise this time though. (May be overseas around that time - not confirmed dates yet though)

Good idea - nice factory look

Yes it is the 4 pin connector next to the mobile phone connectors. Not sure which wires go where - will see what I can find out and get back to you. As for DIY - it should be very simple to do. I think it costs about $65 - I got it with the car so Im not sure what price it would be from the spares department.

Like I said in my post - "(the wires in the photo arent normally visible)" All you can see is the silver bezel - the wires are there as I took the photo whilst diassembling the console for a car kit and had poulled the wires down from behind.

2000 BMW 323i - great handling dymanics - not much power (compared with the T)

Wheels, Motor and AutoSpeed.com Ive been looking for Zoom - but havnt found it!!

Well at least speeing related deaths are also down by 100% - Oh they arnt! Well they must be at least 50% lower - No, how can that be! Well would you believe 25% - No. Well just because the death statistics are the same or slightly worse doesnt mean that this approach doesnt work - does it?

I noticed an imperfection in the bonnet paint job - upon closer inspection there are insert legs (or antennae) embedded in the paint! Here is a photo - enlarged significantly. I guess that's another one to show Ford when its in next.

I posted the best 4 - how many more do you want?? The others are all variations on the same 4 shots - I have about 40. My theory on photograhy is to take heaps of shots in the hope at least a few are particually good.

I have it (havnt used it though) This photo shows it (the wires in the photo arent normally visible) It goes in the small plastic tab under the tissue holder. The wires from the plug run over to the fuse panel where it plugs into a 4 pin connector.

Dont like the wing Prefer my OEM 18's Quite like the door inserts though (without the word "Herrod")

Well that's good news! Hopefully "soon" is before mine start shuddering for the first time. (Assuming that htey do start to shudder!)