Cam

Given the extra cash (wanted to stay below the luxury threshold) I would have wanted the sun roof

Well at least I know if something happened to me my car would be well loved.....

The part number for the lid liner and its fastening clips have been posted somewhere in the forum - that shoul dmake it easlier to order.

I agree. I didnt get them with the car. I put them on myself at about 4000Kms - I cant recommend them enough they are great. My car was getting covered in grime all the way down both sides within a day of cleaning - including a fair bit a tar that was hard to get off. Now - no tar and the sides stay cleaner for a LOT longer. They dont spoil the look of the car either (that was my greatest concern)

I have the spare 18" Alloys and the boot liner - fits no problems.

Hi Guys - finaloised my trip to New Zealand today - wont ne back until the 21st DOH! So I wont be able to make it on the 20th after all.

The genuine Ford one needs to be unbolted - that's why I got a Hayman Reece one (one of the reasons anyway)

1. Got it - works well - it attaches inside the arm rest - can get in the way when manually changinf gears with the SSS 2. I dont like th elook at them - but after seeing a few of them I think im changing my mind - considering them myself 3. Got it - yes I think its worth it - hides that ugly carpet, and is a nice non slip surface, and is easy to clean 4. Havnt seen one - always hated them though 5. Dont know - I have a CD wallet (non Ford) and I keep it in the glovebox

Small world isnt it... So how many of us live in the bayside area??

I live at the top of the Montgomery Park estate.

Try talking with the people ot Northfield Macgregor Ive been talking to them about upgrading mine - they have done a number of BAs already.

You havnt seen the photos of ians car. Take a look at this....

Count me in too (like to see the photo first though)

I have posted this previously in this thread: I got an extra with my premium paint There is a photo of the paint problem in there.

I think its quite roomy - with my sons child seat there is still room for an adult either side - in my previous car the sides were amost useless when the child seat was in the car

1. Bug imbedded in paint on bonnet - they will get authorisation from Ford to have repainted. 2. Grinding coming from steering - replaced as part of Ford recall 3. Shuddering through steering wheel (not braking) - loosened and retentioned bolts on steering rack 4. Cut in steering wheel - air bag replaced 5. 6 from XR6 falling off boot - new badge ordered 6. Fuse panel cover falling off - new one fitted 7. Rear dash carpet not fitted correctly - re fitted 8. SSS squeaking when changing gears manually - disassembled and lubricated with non greasy silicon 9. Radiator coolant leak - new thermostat gasket fitted 10. Air intake fell off turbo - fit checked and tightened 11.Gridning noise when opening armrest - to be corrected at next visit 12. 3000 inspection - done 13. Oil and filter replaced - at my request Add to this list stuff fixed at my previous visit 14. Rattle from heat shield 15. Faulty VCT solenoid So that makes 13 warranty claims and the car hasn’t even done 4500 yet!!! Still loving every minute though....

Have you tried it without the key in the ignition?? Whenever I wash the car I turn the radio on (no key in ignition) and it runs until I turn it off (it will tiem out eventually though - either 30 or 60 mins) I cant remember ever trying with the ignition in ACC. All that aside I dont think it should turn off - you may have a problem with the BEM causing that behaviour?????

I know its been said the the SS Inductions intake is not worth having however.... If the intake was used without the deflection plates that wouldnt have a negative effect on temeratures woudl it?? (not saying whether it would help performance - only talking heat.)

Can you do the following please (assuming you have a multi meter): What is the voltage on the red wire with the switch module unplugged and lights off (compared to chassis) What is the voltage on the red wire with the switch module unplugged and lights on (compared to chassis) Lets assume it’s a +ve voltage. You have 3 options. 1. (Easy option) Cut the red wire and connect the switch side of it to the chassis. This will give the switch the connections it needs to light up. However this will mean that the lights are on whenever there is power to the windows 2. (Harder option - good soldering skills needed) Unsolder the LEDs one at a time and re-solder them back the other way around (reversing the polarity of the LED) Then you will need to re-wire the +ve side of the LEDs to connect to ground (by cutting the tracks that run from the led to the +ve rail and soldering a length of insulated wire from the LED to the ground rail. This will give you normal operation - I.e. on only when they should be But it would be a lot of work and unless you are really up to it you could stuff them totally!!! 3. Cut the red wire feeding the switch Create a small circuit that will take the +ve signal from the red wire and create a switch to ground. This could be done in a lot of ways. The easiest way would be to connect the red wire (the harness side not the switch side) to one side of the coil of a relay. The other side of the coil should be connected to the chassis - so should the switch contact of the relay. The NO (normally open) contact of the relay should be connected to the other side of the cut red wire (the one leading to the switch assembly). This will cause the switch side of the red wire to be pulled to ground whenever there is a +ve voltage on the harness side of the red wire. Instead of using a relay a transistor based approach could be taken using a single PNP (BC557 or similar) and a 20K resistor - this would be cheaper and much smaller. Using a small piece of vero typing board connect the 20K resistor to the base of the PNP resistor. The other side of the resistor is to be connected to the harness side of the red wire. Then connect the switch side of the red wire to the collector of the PNP transistor. then connect the emitter of the PNP transistor to the chassis - and there you have the same result for 30cents and much smaller.

If it doesnrt light up how do you know it is one with the LEDs in it? - Did they tell you? Anyway - if you dont have premium sound the reason it doesnt light up (if it does in fact contain LEDs) is that you are missing the extra wire in the harness that provides the ground path.

Ive beein poking around inside the doors when fitting my automaitic windows controller - and I didnt notice any wiring that looks like it belongs to the courtesy lights (I have premium audio too)

I live at Wellington Point - so some of us could start the convoy in the lovely Bayside.

You need a 3.5mm stereo male to a 3.5mm stereo male cable.

Almost always (Not in heavy traffic, or if eating - which of course I dont do ) Im a manual man myself but just loved the SSS. When driving the auto manually you can not only hold the gears longer without having to give the accel pedel the boot BUT you can also change down gears and faster accelleration without givign it the boot AND you can hold say second gear going round a corner ready to give it some on the exit.

I have the standard - havnt had the problem yet (5000K). I dotn think the $3000 is worth it - plus there are people complaining about squeeling under light breaking with the premium breaks. Unless you need fade resiliance (track, lots of mountain driving....) same your money - Ford must have a solution soon.