Cam

Thanks for the help everyone - I have reversed the LEDs on the single switches and they all work now. All I have left to do now is the drivers switch.

So - just to get this straight - if I simply reverse the polarity of the LEDs that will give me what you have working? Re blackening PCB - this was the first one I did and I screwed around with it a bit, other two were much better. Of course if I now have to remove and reverse the LEDs that will make them a little less pretty!

So does that mean that the extra pin is actually switched to ground?? I thought it was switched to positive. When measuring it last night I found that with the driving lights on the cabel for the extra pion (blue/red - I think) was showing a voltage of +7V compared with the chassis. With the lights off it showed 0V compared with the chassis. Here is a cct diagram of MY understanding of the cct - please correct if im wrong (it may explain why it doesnt work) So to talk it through - the new pin connects to one of the new LEDs, the LED connects to the Resistor, the Resistor to the other LED and the other LED back to the ground plane on the PCB (and the leg bone connects to the.....shin bone) If I have it backwards, where does the constant +ve voltage come from??

The resistor value in the pictures shown are 390R but I subsequently changes to 47R to get closer to the 20mA current drain I wanted. The extra pin that needs to be added supplies the +ve voltage for the LEDs.

The SMD LEDs produce nowhere near that level of light output @ 20mA they output about 30mCd With the resistor values I have selected they run at about 17 - 18 mA and are spot on in terms of brightness.

Now for the problem I have encountered. The actual installation went perfectly and all three single switches are done (need more SMD LEDs to do driver side). After installation they have worked sometimes and not other times - has anybody else seen this happen - if so how did you fix it. This is exactly what happened: Installed switches Turned key to 2nd position and turned on lights (car not running) Switched illuminated Started car Switched no longer illuminated Stopped car Not illuminated Take out key, insert key, turn to position 2 Turn on lights Switched illuminated Changed dashboard illumination level - illluminated to varying degrees of brigtness - except when dash set to brightest - then switched not illuminated. Since then wont illuminte at all...... Arrrggghhhh.... Any help or sugestion greatly appreciated.

I like this approach because it is very simple to install (no LED legs to worry about) and there is no need to worry about the new components fouling the switch mechanism. Also as an aside if anybody bothered to inspect the insides of the switch it would not look modified.. For the extra pin connector I used two lengths of tinned copper wire soldered together - this gave the exact same width and nearly the same thickness as the original pins. The joined lengths of wire were when bent to the correct shape and installed.

This one shows the completed board lit up (red and black clips in background are for power)

this one show the assembled board (I.e. SMD devices in place)

This one shows a closeup of the tweesrs and the devices (tweesers are there for a size reference)

There have not been any posts covering the use of SMD (Surface Mount Device) components. So here is one. What I have done is similar to everybody else except I used SMD blue LEDs and SMD resistors. This first picture shows the disassembled switch with the SMD tweesers and SMD devices to the side.

I sure am....

Problem solved...Thanks

I collect my new car tomorrow as well - 2 more T's for Brisbane then, and both of them living in Wellington Point.

I am having the same problems where it doesnt remember my log on and I haver to log on every time I visit the site. Also it isnt remembering when I last visited (and therefore doesnt know which posts are new)

My wife and son will be along for the ride.

My car arrives next week - I would certainly be up for a drive to Maleny. 25th May sounds fine

Even if the car comes up by truck it would still go to a holding yard before delivery to the dealer.

Pacific Ford - North of Brisbane. But it doesnt seem that quick to me... Ordered end of January devlivery end of April... that's 3 months, sounds about normal from what most people are getting. The bonus is I was expecting closer to four months.

I ordered my XR6T in January and had a confimred build date of 26th April with an expected delivery of 2nd or 3rd week of May. On Wednesday of this week my family am I took my current car to the dealer to let them have have a look at it for a trade in. As we approached I pointed out a Blood Orage XR?? (couldnt tell from a distance what sort) in the dealer driveway. I explained to my wife that is the same colour as I had ordered. As we pulled into the driveway I noticed it was a Turbo....hmmm... that when I started to get excited. I was thinking "how many Blood Orange XR6Ts could this dealer have waiting delivery... So I jumped out and had a look.... does it have leather....yes side airbags....yes premium sound....yes By now I was pretty sure. Then I noticed all the stickers on the window, one of them had a SIDO on it......it was my car!!! It turned out that it had arrived that morning and it will be detailed and accesoriesed ready for delivery by next Wednesday. The salesman even gave me the keys and told me "you can take it for a bit of a squirt if you like". So off I went. It only had 22kms on the clock. He told me that Ford have been having all sorts of build issues that have resulted in May cars being delivered in early April..... So fo reveryone still waiting this is a little ray of hope.

Mine turned up at the dealer on Wednesday of this week - 3 weeks early.... With factory options: Premium Sound Leather Side air bags 18" alloys My dealer told me they are having all sorts of build problems (with timings) and that they have recieved May build cars already....

I havnt heard the new sound yet. (Get the car in 3 weeks) But if the only change is swapping a baffled muffler to a straight through muffler wouldnt this result in a freeer flowing exhaust?

Die hard manual driver here. I was out to buy a manual - But bought the SSS after the test drive - I think its fantastic!!!

How true this is. Most propaganda we hear from the government is that 40% of accidents are caused by speed - and this is true. What they dont say is that 96% of these accidents actually occure BELOW the speed limit. (I.e. speed was still a factor but the cars wern't speeding) What that means is that only 1.6% (4% of the 40%) of accidents actually are the result of speeding.....(not speed but speeding) So why are having so many speed cameras going to reduce road tolls.. simple... they wont, but they will make a lot of money, and the simple minded will think its all for their own good. Try this site for more info RoadSense

A 20W soldering iron is recommended for surface mount devices. The procedure should be 1) Tin one end of the device applying heat for shortest time possible 2) Wait 30 seconds for device to cool 3) Tine other end of device 4) wait 30 seconds for cooling 5) Place device in place on PCB (on top of pads) 6) Apply iron for short time to cause solder on device and PCB to melt together 7) Wait 30 seconds for cooling 7) do step 6 for other side of device If using standard devices then a 40W (or more if carefull) iron will be fine and the need to be ultra carefull of heat is far less of a problem.