Jump to content

sport1111

New Member
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

2 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

617 profile views
  1. Thanks everyone for your advice. Will definitely just do the catch can and see how much oil it collects. Who makes the best catch can or doesn't it matter that much.
  2. Hi Everyone, I have a mildly tuned FG F6 ( Intercooler, Cat & tune -320 rwkw) and the other day it blew the hose off between the intercooler outlet and the inlet manifold. The thing I noticed was there was a lot of engine oil in the area where the hose had come off. I took it back to my tuner and the did a compression and leak down test and said it was ok. I thought it may be an oil seal in the turbo but they have said it is more likely "blow by". I have had the car since new 2012 and it has never been raced and has only done 85,000 Km The tuner has said that it is more oil than they usually see. They have said the options are to pull the engine down (hone & rings) or fit a "catch can" It has passed the nominal warranty period but more significantly, due to the mods Ford won't look at it. My questions are: - Do you think it is a turbo seal or blow by? - Will a catch can be worth doing? I know it wont fix the problem but if it stops the oil in the pipework it may be a compromise. Any advice of comments would be appreciated. Thanks...
  3. Hi nicheal, The new diff didn't cost me anything as they did it under warranty but I didn't think it really needed replacement - maybe just the LSD additive that Ford use. Anyway... as I mentioned the new diff was noisier that the one they replaced but all good now after the slight increase in pinion preload performed by "Diff King" in Dandenong.
  4. Hi everyone, I took my FG11 F6 ute for service and mentioned a slight noise in the diff when I took off around a corner under light throttle. They decided to replace the diff which I thought was overkill. Problem is the "new" diff was noisier than the one they took out with a "significant" whine under light load which disappeared when I backed off. Long story short... Complained to ford dealer, they said the would add an additive to the diff. I wanted to fix the problem not mask it. I rang the diff manufacturer and they were unsure but put me onto a small independent diff repair shop in Dandenong (Diff King). I spoke to them and they went for road test and said it didn't have enough pinion bearing preload. I went back to Ford and they said that they couldn't authorise the preload adjust through Diff King so I would have to go back through Ford warranty and most likely they would change the diff again. I figured the cycle may just repeat and I may end up with another noisy diff. I rand the diff manufacturer and they said just to take it to Diff King and get the preload increased. I did this, it took thirty minutes, took it for a road test and it is the quietest it has ever been - even quieter the the original. Diff King is not the tidiest workshop I have ever seen but being a qualified mechanic in a past life I knew that he knew his stuff... I'm happy.
  5. Thanks for all your advice. We will just see how it goes and if the box craps itself then I will just have to fix it (and upgrade it) I reckon my tyres are fairly good and I have to really get into it before I loose traction (running 275/30x19 Direzza Z1) With a box upgrade I am told that the bearings (or bushes) need upgrading as well as the clutch packs, but if I am only running 320 rwkw would I need to "tune" the trans? I love the way this ute goes and it was $60,000 cheaper than my last car so if I have to spend a bit on it, it's not the end of the world. Thanks again.
  6. Hi guys, What is a safe power output which won't adversely shorten the life of my ZF. Car is FG F6 ute 2012 with 70,000 km just been tuned to 320 rwkw - haven't done trans service yet but going to do at 75k when I do normal service and will replace trans cooler also. Let me know your thoughts... Thanks.
  7. Hi guys, Going to upgrade FG II F6 ute with Nizpro Stage 2 (approx 320-330 rwkw) Has done 70,000km, freeway running, dealer service + synthetic oil change every 7500k, never dragged or flogged and has 275/30x19 Direzza Z1 StarSpec tyres on rear. Am I likely to have any problems with ZF trans or diff and what times do you think I would run with 330rwkw and good 275 rubber if I did have a crack at the drags. This is all a bit new to me so any advice is welcome. Thanks....
  8. Thanks guys for all your advice and Seaton, I did follow up on Nizpro's 2+ and you're right... the exhaust adds heaps to the cost of the stage 2 kit. Dave at Nizpro generally achieves about 330 rwkw on an FG F6 with stage 2. I know compared to my last F6 which was tuned to 295rwkw but with standard tyres my stock FG feels quicker with the 275 Direzza Z1's so hoping will be fairly good with 330 kW and good tyres. Anyway... have decided to go for the Nizpro 2 but really appreciate all your advice. Thanks...
  9. Thanks for the info so far... It seems you can just keep building I guess but I was leaning towards the stage 2 which goes as far as the intercooler and maybe upto 330rwkw on an F6, and I think they would just tune to the limitation of the exhaust. I already have fairly good rear grip with 275/30x19 Direzza Z1's on the rear and Bilstiens valved with low compression and high rebound which gives better weight transfer to the rear on acceleration. You're right Seaton... I don't think I want to spend big bucks on the exhaust if I can get 300+ without it. Thanks guys...
  10. Hi Guys, I haven't been on the forum for a fair while now but I am trying to decide weather to install a Nizpro Stage 1+ or Stage2 on my FGII F6 ute. Any advice or comments from anyone who has fitted either kit would be really appreciated. Thanks...
  11. Hi all, I have 19x9.5 Icon Zest with 275/30x19 Direzza Z1 on the rear of my ute and I have just noticed that the tyres are rubbing (very slightly) on the inside chassis rail. The wheels have a 35 offset and I was going to get 5-6 mm hub centric spacers to fix the rubbing but I only have 14mm of thread engagement so with the spacer I will only end up with 8-9 mm which I reckon is insufficient. Does anyone know where I can get slightly longer studs or does anyone have a suggestion for the best way to fix the rubbing. Thanks...
  12. I have had 5 new utes and it is only my latest one (FG F6) that has this problem and only since I fitted low springs. I tried all sorts of things and have finally fixed the problem. I took the rear shackle bushes out and really coated them with rubber grease and settled the car before I re tightened them and I also opened the gap between the spring leaves and sprayed Lanox (lanolin spray) under all the plastic spring insulators and has been great now for months. I must admit it is easier if you have a car hoist. Hope this helps...
  13. Thanks for all the interesting feedback. As per my initial post - it was not my brother in laws GT it was his mates so I have never met the guy - also I live in Melbourne and he is in Adelaide so I am unlikely to get all the info everyone has requested. Although my new F6 ute is my fourth Ford Turbo I have never run my own car at the drags, I just got sick of lack of grip particularly with may last one (BF F6 - 290 rwkw and standard tyres) As a result I decided to put Icon Zest with the 275 Direzza Star Specs on the rear of my new FG and the grip to me seems fantastic. MT's may be way better - I don't really know. If anyone is interested look at Stuckey Tyres website (I think under the heading "street legal race tyres " DZSPZ1) or just google Dunlop Direzza and you will find a short promotional you tube clip. Sorry I can't answer more of your questions but thanks for everyone's feedback. As I mentioned in the first post - I can switch the traction off - stall up to 2000rpm and it seems to launch with hardly any slip, but is only a standard F6 310 (circa 250 rwkw) Thanks....
  14. I spoke to my brother in law again and he said 420 rwkw so maybe that's it - no traction with the standard Dunlops. They are also known as Star Specs. My ute is new so not sure what time it would run but what should I expect standard with 275's with good grip ? Also the Bilstiens I run on the rear have lower compression and higher rebound so may aid with rear weight transfer if I give it a run at the drags. Thoughts...
  15. I was in Adelaide on the week-end telling my brother in law how good I thought my Dunlop Direzza Z1 tyres are and he has a mate with a GT 335 who ran 12.2 on standard rears (not sure what rwkw) and he swapped his rears for 275/30x19 Direzza Z1's and did nothing else and ran a 10.8 - I put a post on a while ago about these tyres but I don't think many people have tried them as there was not many comments. My ute is just a stock F6 310 but these tyres don't really slip even with the traction off and stalled up to 2000 rpm plus the big claim by the manufacturer and many American forums is that you don't need to warm them up - almost max grip is there from the start which I have also noticed. Has anyone had a similar result with these or other tyres? He said the dealer who sells them in Adelaide is really starting to sell a lot of them now. I bought mine in Melbourne and I think they are only available from one motorsport dealer in Adelaide, Melbourne and maybe other states (I don't really know) Any comments would be welcome. Thanks...
×
  • Create New...
'