jas98

Haha yeah. It used to spoke to mainly 9psi but when it hit 10 it went into overboost mode so dropped cylinders etc. Seeing I'm not looking for heaps power just a slight increase if say I'll be ok. As far as I'm aware it's factory valve springs but I was told it had 18psi put through it buy previous owner before my mate owned it. So it may or may not have had valve springs done in past. Either way couple more psi would be good

Hi all. Just seeing if anyone here has tuned a high K ba xr6t in past. Mine has 357 000 on it (just engine everything else been replace in past lol) Now I'm not looking for heaps power. Only extra 2 or so psi and the tuner I spoke to said that's all he will go for anyway. Could plugs sensors fuel pump injectors actuator etc etc has all ben replaced so it has had a bit of money spent on all that. I'm aware sh*t can break but that can happen on any tune. And seeing I only go slightly higher I'm thinking I should be ok for now.. I know engine used to overboost to 10 psi for about a year straight before I discovered why lol

Alright. Spoke to another ford guy whos now a parts guy at ford. He said sounds like BEM and by me dosconnecting battery and reconecting it has reset itself. So hopefully its all ot needed as it seems fine now. Either way I will look into forscan and an extr key etc

Haha yeah. Locksmith was 150 for key. Mr minit 180. Ford wants 160 just to supplie key. I can get a ignition barrel....lock and 2 keys cut ...all genuine for 80 bucks just need codeing. Looking into useig forscan to do it. Anyone know the best obd11 plig to do ot with?

Haha yeah my bad BEM. Been fine since battwry dosconnect. But yeah. Turns out I need 2 keys to get it programed if I put another BEM in...I only.have 1 key ffs lol loterally cheaper for me to buy a ignition barrel with 2 keys to match with transponders (80 bucks all up) then it is to buy 1 key from ford for $180... Do you know if I can use forscan to program it all in myself? Ford said about 210 for them to install BEM and program...drive in drive oit if I supplied it. Another auto electric guy said they send them away to be gixed but need key....key reader and bem and will take up to 3 weeks plus....I <3 Bananas haha Although now everything is workig fine 😂

Haha yeah. So I was at work when wife told me. But now home. Basically start car....no wipers or aftermarket sterio that's getting power from the ACC plug that's located under steering wheel area. Drive along out of nowhere wipers cycle for 3 times and everything turns back on (after wipers cycle) I tried starting just before and no wipers etc. So diconnected battery for 30 seconds and back on and went for drive and alll back to normal....for.now.....so far.... Ford guy told me BCM issue. Auto elec said it sounds very weired but bcm is likely. Another place said nevwr herd it before haha. Maybe did just need a reset? How hard is it to swap BCM in a ba xr6t. Aer there different ones?

Hi all have had a few issues but came good however yeaterday had battery disconnected on my ba xr6t when went to reconnect all was hood. Started car and idled ok. About 15 seconds later wipers flicked on by themselfs.....seems when starting car nownthry cycle 3 times...... Battery is brand new 3 day old. It did this last time battery was disconnexted aswell but came came good. I fid have to get a part of body of car in boot welded yesterday but seeing this problem was also there last time I doubt it caused any issues (battery diconnected)

Thanks. But I found the issue and its all good and sounds great now. Boost to 5psi 6 at most and no more. Turns out I must have had a mind blank but the dump pipe to turbo bolts were loose...only on was tight others loose. Tightened them up and all good now

Ok...but why is this noise happening and only after couple of runs..... I understand higher spring presure causeig overboost and a/f ratio issues but not this. Factory spring preaaure is like 3-4psi. This ones 5psi. I used to have a 8psi spring on it a few year ago which never ever did this noise it just overboosted when it hit 9psi.

Hi all. Replaced the actuator on my ba xr6t (stock tune etc) I used a turbosmart 5psi replacement. Ok so...old actuator (factory) was only letting abou 3pi max no matter what I done etc plus it has a nice rattle inside it now that its removed from car. This new one is letting 5-6psi which is allllot better and feels heaps better...but have a problem. When engines cold to warm and I go for a drive and boost builds ...it builds boost up to 5psi (just to 6 max) but after a few pulls and engine get hot its only hitting 3-4psi and makes this loud air gushing sounds that also has a rattly sound.....it sounds to me like the wasgate flapper is bounceing very fast. Its does not make this sound when building boost up to 3psi only when it starts to hit 3psi. The turbosmart actuator requires it to be setup for pretension so im thinking I didnt tension it enough as I think I may have only did it 1mm not 2mm like they said to. Does this sound like im on right track?

Hmm. Yeah similar to what mine looked like last time I had turbo.off. although I belive it did extend allllot further possibly to the turbine wheel area. (But hairline crack looking) I know.one of the hoiseing bolts keep comming out....I used exhaust cement last time when I put it back in and seema to have stopped it working loose. Id say its cracked there. Been looming for replacements and found a stock copied one on ebay for 220. Looks alright but unsure. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-BA-BF-FG-XR6-F6-GT3582R-Turbo-Charger-Turbine-housing-1-06-A-R-/112176571230&ved=2ahUKEwiCsPzt85jnAhU_zTgGHeoMCL4QjjgwA3oECAMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1C70pkQAHSWmoDonyWSDkD Seems to be practically identical

Haha sorry. Ment to say..I know I have read heaps about the houseings cracking arouns the wastgate seat... and they say its ok. But also have read that its also a bad thing to have cracks.

Hmm thankd. Well its definally been boeed oit in past. I kmow ive tead heaps that it dont matter bout cracks bit also read a bit that it does. So im unsure what to belive. It is only boosting at round 3 to 4 psi used to go to 6psi. (With 8psi actuator on it 10psi 😂) Checked alllll boost pipes and bolts etc. The actuator on it is about 120 000ks old stock one. When I apply vacume to.it it does not hold it at all just drops quickly. Should it hold vacume?

Thanks. Didnt think ot would make a difference. Are the actual flappers larger on fg? I have read they are bit not sure. Also ive read allot about cracking at the seat where flapper sits. Mine has 2 cracks. And I kmow a hpuseing bolt used to always come loose no.matter what I done. Bit seems to be holdong now. So im tjinking of swapping it over soon.

Hi all. I have a ba xr6t. Its stock tune...has cat back exhaust and a growler anyway (not really mods but eh) I know its had a larger flapper put on by previous owner years ago as it was running 16psi. Then returned to stock tune but left the rear houseing with larger flapper. Not stupidly larg but definally is larger then factory as I had a factory one beside it and it was larger. Was told it was a fg houseing as there larger...doubt it. Anyway question is what....if any.....problems would it have with larger flapper on stock tune etc? Seems to be going ok over the years. Would it effect power or would it all be fine. As I was looming at the mamba rear houseings and thought about giveing them a ago. As I also have hair line cracks in the flapper area.

Thanks. Good info but does not tell me which way to turn the screw.

Have done a bit of looking but was from a few year ago. On a BA 4 speed. The S5 solinoid adjustment to help firm shifts a little. Which way do you turn the screw? Clockwise? Anti clockwise? Ive herd people turning it 3/4 and it really firms it up.....I only want a slightly better shift so im thinking half or just under half? Thanks

This is the one I used on my ba xr6t. Works fine...use it just like the fancy tool pretty much and dont need to remove radiator https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-gear-puller---3-jaw-75mm/12539.html

Ok. So have had this for a while (bout 10 000ks now) and doing my head in. Got a ba xr6t stock tune etc When engine gets warm like almost half way on temp guage...when cruiseing on highway at say 70kph to 100kph and gentleing accelerate the car surges while gaining speed ..kind of sounds like a missfire brrr brrr but revs dont change it still revs up fin when gaining speed. However if I give it heaps (like overtaking etc) it does surge for a couple seconds but then comes good and revs right up like nothings wrong. Went on a 2500k round trip other day...went fine besides this issue. So far I have replaced: Fuel pump Fuel reg Boost solinoid TPS Throttle body cam sensors and checked wireing Cam actuator soinoids Oil temp sensor Oil pressure senor O2 sensor Knock sensor 2 lots of coils...current ones are brand new genuine Spark plugs Also gearbox fluid lines have been by passed from radiator so no chance of coolant mixing Checked for boost leaks and also vacume leaks and could not find any. Idles perfect aswell Each time I replaced something the issue seemed to have stopped for a couple days then comes back. (Could just be me) I have not replaced crank sensor...map swnsor..or injectors ...but surely if it was injectors would do it all time?? Can a bad crank sensor only show when warm as a missfire at low rpm? Theres also no codes logged.

If applying vacume to the actuator should it hold vacume? Tryig to figure out if mine stuffed as ot bleeds off vacume almost instantly. I know u blow through them but should it hold vacume?

Can this sensor cause a missfire symptom while driveing?? When cars up to operating temp

Thanks. I was thinking valve springs for a bit. It does have 332 000ks lol Whats best way to test actuator as im haveing a mined blank haha I trated it once before when installing a new on (stock one) can I used vacume presaure as I donhave a vacume tester. The actuator in it is about 5 year old and stick garrot one

As some may know ive had miss fireing issues with my ba xr6t stock tune etc. I fixed that with new spark plugs and coils. However I still have a problem that feels kinda like coils but im almost certain its not as for 1.. I swaped with a known good set and it was same. And 2 car still revs up to 4-5000rpm easy and smoothly when giveing it some. What issue I have is when giveing it allot like a really hard take off I get to 100kph quick but it feels like ot surges slightly when its up to aboit 90kph and accelwrating..and I look accross and I see 7-8 psi on the boost guage when it does this... its normally 5-6. So does that sound like its boost cutting? Ive also swapped fuel pumps and same issue. I have had overboost problems in past where it has hit 11psi and shut power amd I had to pull over and restart it....But this is a bit different as it still drivea fine after it does it..im thinking actuator has a slight leak? Someone said to me valve springs...but it only stock.. To me it feels like traction controls kicking in but theres no.loght on dash when it does

Now...I know this could be anytime but on average how long does a ba xr6t engine last? Mines a 2004 that now has 330 000 on clock. Prety much only this mechanically and driveline specific that's still stock is the actual engine There have been a few things changed on engine such as: Coils Vct sensors Timming chain and guides All gaskets besides head and sump Vatious sensors But was wondering on stock boost levels how many ks people got from them It still has plenty of go and does not make noise...it did have a lifter tap at startup but has since gone after engine flush and slightly thicker oil.

Started every day...prob 4 or 7 times daily lol gets driven allot as its a family car. Oils penrite 15 40 bit im gonna put in a slightly thicker oil.