jas98

Cam phaser issue?

Good stuff Curious. That banjo. Is it supposed to spin freely? Like really easily. I'm yet to check air leaks on it but just noticed since new it seems really easy to spin compared to one my mate had for his.

Thanks. Have you ever herd of "maxtop" timming chains? There a tawain brand unknown. Online reviews have a few that have broken or stretched but I have also seen a few that say there good. Ot came with the Austral kit ....said it was for turbo aswell. I don't think I'll risk it and I'll just get the genuine one.

Yeah I got a AUSTRAL timing kit very cheap (allot cheaper then RRP.) As just wanted to use the guides from the kit as they are the same ones nason use. However I'm not useing the chain that came with it as I seen I can get a genuine chain cheap or alike (as U said atomic) I had no idea they used different sprockets. Now I'm regretting throwing it out haha. Do you know how good the tensioners are from the nason kits? Or am I better of useing the original one. The nason/Austral ones look decent and feel decent though. (Tawain made..prob same as genuine now haha)

Well the one on it now was from a N/A engine that had way less ks then my turbo engine. They both looked identical from memory....also ford list one for both turbo and non turbo bit I need to change guides as ones broken. So gonna change guides and chain with genuine chain.

When replacing timming chain is crank sprocket a must to replace? Obviously if it's missing teeth etc it is. I'm about to replace guides due to them being damaged and while I'm at it I've decided to get a genuine ford chain and do that aswell. Bit have been told to change the sprocket aswell as there common to wear......is this true?

Thanks. I found out that the tensioner and guides are quality units however the actual chain itself is a maxtop brand which has had allot of failures in various cars so definally gonna stear clear of that one haha...cheers

Hi anyone used or know anything about Austral tmming chain kits for the falcon.....ba bf etc. Not looking for people to say go genuine or atomic....wanting so see of anyone seen or used these kits. Both supercheap and Repco sell them plus allot of local auto stores etc.

Original issue similar to yours was a combination of 2 things at time ...stuffed actuator and a stuffed cat as the cat was half blown through.

Does sound like a lifter/lash adjuster tick to me. Have you tried different oil or even a additive to help free them up? Worth a try

Would this be ok to use on a ba xr6t stock 6 psi boost? I'm looking at new plugs but looking to just get copper ones and not sure on gap I need on stock boost. Yes I know heaps will say get normal ones if normal boost but I'm looking for copper ones.

I have a noise at start up for about 30 seconds on and off then all good. This noise sounds like from front of engine....very loud aswell almost similar to belt squeal but not a high pitch sound. Anyway other day I took belt off to look for another noise(still there with belt off) but I spun all pulleys and found the water pump sounded bad....I've attached a vid of it. However I took belt off next day and it was silent however was very hard to turn.....about 5 times harder then a new one to turn (checked in supercheap with one on shelf.) So I drove it for the day and checked it again and it's still same...nothing like in the video I done. Also no leaks from weep holes at all. Either way a new ones going on...it's just im wondering if it's bearing or something else gone in it. It is a GMB pump prob about 1052/" 000ks on it almost.

Fixed ...!!! Was the PCV valve hose.....it was sucking inwards as it was all soft. Would never have thought it would be that but I seen a similar noose on YouTube from a different car. Cheers all

Thanks all. Went out and started it from cold and no noise untill about 2 min of idleing. Then noose came in...then when ac clutch tuned on noise dissapears till AC clutch turned off....however as said it done this noise even when belt was off and fans out of car. I put it into reverse and noose dissapears this time. Noose was there in park neutral and also drive. Now I'm.wondering if it's gearbox...maybe bearing in it gone or convertor bearing 😂

Pffft what chassis rail "gets biggest hole Saw can find"

Ok have ba xr6t has developed this sound but today it's worse. Started off as a one off noose and went away. Last few days it's been there on and off but now it's there most time but not always. Weired this is....when driveing and coasting you can hear it however if I tough accelerator ever so slightly it disapears but take foot off (and I mean only slightly) goes away. Boosting there's zero noise...boost fine no issues there. I have taken belt off and removed fans and noise still there. Turbo has a little shaft play....has always over the years....fins look good. Factory Oil screen was removed years ago. Does it sound turbo? Maybe a boost leak? Just to me if turbo would and should it not make a huge noise when under boost?? This is the noise (my car)

.going with ignition coils. I also have a Maza premacy (same as a 323 engine) and after about 10 min driving it used to do exactly same issue as you say.... But come after turning it off and back on after like 10 min or so In end it was a coil....was only running on 2 cylinders......I didn't think it would be coil as it ran fine for 10 min or so then did this. Thermal expansion I'm guessing killed coil internally

as title says...what is and where is the TILA on a ba xr6t. I have a code which I have had for a while and it tells me to check wireing fron the bEM to TILA. It gives the pins to check but I have no idea what TILA refers to cheers

Just wondering if I was to take out the butterfly's etc and block hole off could a N/a intake manifold work Inna Turbo? Reason being is...I would like to give it a paint however I have a spare n/a manifold sitting here and it would be allot easier and quicker if I painted it off car a few days before and then installed it once dry etc. Or are they different even without butterfly's? Cheers

Ahahaha yeah. Don't really wanna buy a new kit lol. Mine not broken but mates is. I remebr reading a post about it a while back and kinda remeber a pic of how some people have used a cheaper brass fitting. Just can't remebr haha

While on this topic what have people used in place of the black plastic screw connector the goes into crossover pipe that this hose connects to? I know you can get them new but I have herd there quite expensive and people have used a brass fitting etc ?

That's true. New one should get here Wednesday hopefully. Car still drives etc. However sometimes it want to stall all of a sudden waiting at lights or while comming out of a corner and accelerating. I did check the volts on a mates ba xr6t at idle and his was .7/.8 and with stab on accelerator is was 1.2v. But yeah I'd say his is genuine sensor.

Cheers. Yeah I will be. Just waiting innit to arrive . One thing I noticed was when I checked it with forscan while idleing the bolts were .3 to .5 bolts and with a stab on the accelerator it only went up to like .8 to 1 volt I'm guessing this is tell tail sighn aswell as it being bad.

Hi all. Ba xr6 turbo Have changed the map sensor about a year ago with a tridom one ..one on it had 355000ks so though why not Anyway. Other day while drive and slowed for a corner and as I was "rolling" into corner and just gave it a slight bit of throttle while comming out of corner engine kinda felt like lost allllllll power for a split second. Then today did same but only for a split second. Also traction control is on yes but this is completely different to what that feels like. Decided to check what forscan says and it came with a MAP sensor code P0107. So cleared it and drove round block but didn't return...yet. bit when I checked with forscan when I programmed keys a couple months back I reset all codes etc and this code was never one of the codes (none in PCM then anyway) anyway if map sensor is faulty can it do that? It is also kinda useing allot more fuel however I have been driveing it allot harder lately. Cheers

Long story short. After a heap of stuffing round and just before I decide to sway the BEM I was checking over car again when it was doing this problem and turns out it was a faulty relay.....alll corroded inside (one cover removed) Fun thing was it was 2 bad relays as when I swapped it from the power window switch one (to fault find) that one aswell was bad. So pulled guess box out and checked all wording and everything seemed ok and been working for a few weeks fine now