jas98

How old is bottom hose? It's quite possible it's sucking in. Factory ones have a spring in it I believe. Most aftermarket do E but if it's old it can get spongy and suck in. Also make sure fans are working correctly. There is 3 relays. Try swapping them around Aswell but if you bottom hose looks suss I'd be betting it's that. I would replace it

Hey mate I have similar issues and also this exact code on my ba xr6t now Aswell. Mine was open loop faulting. I tracked that to bad oxygen sensor wireing....fixed that. Change oxygen sensor Aswell. But also had TPS... throttle pedal....and 2 other oxygen sensor codes that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did till I swapped around the ess(?) Relay and came good but the p0172 code I am yet to get rid off and it's using a fair bit of fuel again What I'm about to try is the CHT sensor as it's reading that it's at 1/4 on guage no matter tragic the jumps up a little then down just as quick. ..other thing is I was gonna check vacume leaks again and also fuel pressure return restriction in line as the FPR is fine/new. Don't like using bucket loads of fuel haha

All good Thanks

Thanks. So in a stock tune does it affect economy etc if it's playing up? ....just trying to work out what it actually does and can do if failing/treading wrong but not wrong enough to cause a code yet

The boost map sensor on the boost pipe. What's it purpose? I've read some say you don't need this some say you do. I'm not looking at removing it etc but wondering if it can stuff up without registering a code? And also how long do these last on average? Have read it can stuff around with fuel economy and boost fluctuations etc Mine original at 380 000ks. So wondering if this is something people see fail over time in these cars

Should be U2197 and U2196

Ba xr6t Running fine for last month no issues after I had a open fault loop issue which was wireing for the 02 sensor way down in wireing loom . Anyway today wife says it started missing just after she left thismorning but came good eventually. When I got home I checked codes and it through all these P0122 P0124 P0172 P0223 P0224 P1131 P1132 U1900 U2197 U2197 These are related to 02 sensor...TPS sensor...pedal sensor....the U ones are aparantly the speed input to cluster not there . I'm lost really. I contacted injectronics and asked them they said it could be pcm but not a common issue these but to check wireing to throttle body and pedal switch . Some say wireing at coils or even coils causing it Everything's new or almost new Has anyone had these codes similar to what I'm getting and found the issue?

Good work but must say you can get new bush for the ends. It's allot easier to do then whole cable and can be allot cheaper sometimes

Yeah seems that secondhand ones are hard to get now aswell haha I think O will be able to make one up froma couple bends and pipe

Anyone know if there is a aftermarket factory style intake pipe for a ba bf turbo...it's the plastic pipe that goes from crossover pipe to the font of turbo houseing. Yes I'm aware there's sh*tloads of othwr kits to rid of it but after this actual pipe factory style. Ford no longer do them

Think I've narrowed issue to map sensor or wireing. Ba xr6t Ok so at koeo the output is 1.8 v going by forscan Engine on its .85 volt Now I've just checked what volt is a wireing loom to sensor withulti Meyer and I'm getting 4 wires was 1. 0v 2. 4.95 3. 4.98 4. 5.37 this right?? I wiggled wires yanked them etc didn't change Downt seem correct to me as shouldn't at least one be a feed back wire to pcm so shouldn't have any volts? 😕 Or does it at key on then switchs to a signal wire?

I know it's a bit old now but did you ever fix this issue??

Also just rescanned for codes and none in pcm but did have a low battery code in bem battery is fine though and yes tested etc it's fine

Thanks all. Swapped injectors and reset battery ...thought I was onto something as it idles fine...O2 sensor was fine and reading as it should ...so let it idle for 5-10 min and as I was walking back (when it was warm) I herd it missfire and revs dropped like a mover starving for fuel and it shot revs back up to like 2500 RMP for a couple seconds and slowly idled back down...at this point is idled rough splutted and then started idleing again..although little miss . When this was happening the O2 sensor reading was spazzing out like it was loosing power ...gaining power instantly etc. .. After inlet it idle while it was little rough and wiggled all wireing I could see/get to without burning myself etc and nothing changed Turned it off and yanked the battery cables a little and started it and it seemed fine again.......prob a coincidence as it does come good sometimes Question can a bad engine earth strap cause this...like can it cause stupidly high fuel usage??? And these symptoms. One other thing I noticed was the air con jist randomly tirned off as pulling into driveway when I hit a bump aswell which it never has done that and it also did it in the driveway while this was all happening aswell I

So have had allok. Can find any broken wires or leaks ...fuel reg checks out ok. Have thought and seeing the O2 sensor code it has now it a lean code and system defaults to OL-fald and not closed loop etc. Maybe injector stuffed so computer is just pumping fuel in so it doesn't lean out? Or even fuel pump weak? I know in therory it shouldn't as yeah no fuel through would mean your saving fuel but if computer sees it lean it will hold the injectors open more/longer?? Otherwise if it had a air leak it would idle hell high but it's not and can find any leaks while running

Hi all. Trying to find cause. Ba xr6t. Few week back car just started have random miss at idle or taking off. Took home had codes for TPS and throttle pedal sensor. Oxygen sensor. . So swapped TPS and O2 sensor and was all good for a little bit. . Last week noticed that car had slight miss at idle again. And was idleing higher (slightly .like 50rpm ) so hooked forscan up and had 3 codes for oxygen sensor. So though we'll the one I swapped with maybe it was I <3 Bananased. So bought new Bosch one. Came good perfect. Drove it couple days but I <3 Bananas then noticed it was drinking fuel .. Today for 1/4 tank it only done 62ks.....can smell it running Rich and has a oxygen sensor code lean. ...no other codes But when was on forscan noticed O2 sensor was at .85 volts and steady and also it's stuck in OL-fault. It did switch to open loop for about 20 min while driveing and ran smoothly but then while cruising home at 60 kph it droped back to OP-fault. Seems to be stuck in this OL-fault mode hence why it's drinking fuel Now over last few months I've replaced every sensor and injectors etc as I wanted to change Al those but I'm not ruling any sensors etc out. They were not eBay junk either though. I've read a bit and seems it could be the coolant/head temp sensor? Or fuel pressure/injector. I've checked the fuel reg (it's also only few weeks old) and fuel pump is about 6 months old no vacume leaks I did do a Kam reset through forscan which I've done before without issues so hopefully that hasn't caused any issues as I did this after I did the TPS sensor Any suggestions would be great. It's gone from useing about 14. Lph round town to now 24 lph round town and climbing

Hi. Does anyone know if the locating bush on a ba xr6 turbo tail shaft slip yoke is removeable? I've been told they are just trying to work out how. Long story...bout a year and half ago changed the rubber coupling and it was seized on and pulled the bush out aswell. So I just slapped it all back and been ok since but would like a better fix. I have a non turbo slip yoke that has a almost new looking bush etc Would they be same size turbo and non turbo? (Bush part itself) and how do you remove them? I have a press etc just want to know how to remove it

What was the outcome on this? I'm betting it would be rings or ring land? On number 5

Update....so weired but it hasn't done it since I've kept the irridiums 1.1 mm gaped plugs in. I even tried it again couple weeks later with 1 mm copper plugs and it overboosted....old plugs back and fine. It's always used to have a overboost issue. When randomly overboosted but these plugs made it do it instantly O

Haha thanks guys. So they be ok in a ba? I've read that heat ranges are differant now but I can't see that makeing much difference

Hi...I know gap sizes has been discussed before. But the ba and bf turbos obviously have different sized spark plug gaps. Ba is 1.1 bf .8? Anyway can I use a bf/fg turbo genuine plugs in a ba turbo (stock tune) If not why what is different besides gaps. ...I'd like to go a smaller gap then 1.1 but was thinking if just get the bf ones there already gapped. .I asked NGK they didn't know why ford called for a smaller gap compared to the earlier ones but in saying that they also said both plugs are pretty much identical specs besides gap sizeing.

Although it's not as bad as the heat exchangers it's certainly not a non common issue in the ba btr. Mines done it....sister inlaws has done it and so has a mates. Also I hear it allot at work when people need new radiators due to same issue. But as you say it is more known in the heat exchanger units especially earlier on in life. I've herd of the FG haveing this exact issue with less then 1000ks on clock only a week old even Some last 300 000ks aswell

The cracks on all my bolt holes go all was up to the threads. I'm looking at a new houseing eventually. In saying that though there are a few eBay...pulsar etc ones. I've herd stand clear of the Mambo ones as there crap... There is the Areo glow one which says wtf replacement and looks pretty good but not sure anyone had experience with stock setup useing it? Mine currently has larger flapper mod by looks as it's definally larger the factory ones

Mines hot cracks in all bolt hole areas and dontt come loose .....how Bad's the cracks on yours?

Hmm 😕 didn't think that....... Is that a common thing to happen in this situation haha as never seen it before haha