jas98

Thanks. Soooo it did it again today...same thing turnoff and on again and fine. I have checked a few things but nothing seems out of ordinary I've been told the right rear abs sensor is one the pcm uses for Speedo. Is this correct? Even though no code for that particular sensor could it still be that? Also can reseating the BCM module help with this or is it more a dash reseating? Thanks

Hi ba xr6t sedan stock tune Yesterday started car and P was flashing ..went to drive and D was flashing. And was in limp mode as was stuck in third with no Speedo Aswell. Turned off and on again and been fine since. Scanned and found some codes relating to modules not recivering speed input however the pcm had a code for P0500 Also 2 other codes which come and go but never caused issues unless it's related now? But these codes are P8026 P8028 Any help thanks Also battery is near new 660 CCA and was also tested at 663cca. However wife did mention it sounded like it struggled to start other day so maybe earth issue??

When changing a cv boot on the inner cv (factory shaft) on a ba rear drive shaft is it crucial to reinstall join in exact same spot.on shaft? Reason I ask is well ...I never marked it and have zero idea the exact spot It came from haha. Joints are fine it's just the boot was split so changed that. ...I haven't installed shaft yet. I did read that shafts with inner plunger joints and cv outer ones don't need to be "clocked" but the repair manual does state to mark it .. Soooo is it actually required haha

Haha yeah shots are good 😂 Yeah I'll check all that. But I know the drive shafts are extremely worn as U can hear clicking when showing down etc . I have a genuine pair waiting to go in but haven't had time lol I'll get under and check everything Aswell. I have read it's common this issue with worn cv joints but mainly front wheel drive not rear ..so was wondering

Hi all. Trying to figure out a vibration/complete car shake in my ba xr6t sedan. Before say it's brake booster I don't believe so as have tried that trick and the symptoms are a bit different and tail shaft seems ok Aswell So driveing today ona shortish trip (100ks away) and was all good going there as had a clean run. On way back was allot of traffic...slow traffic so naturally when overtaking lane comes you go around. Anyway was doing about 85kph. Then started to accelerate...not heavyly but enough and got to about 110kph and noticed a decent vibration/shake in my arse and center concept was shaking ..wife could also feel it In her seat. Now I got to 120pkh and as soon as I lifted foot from accelerating it was smooth....also noticed on what home every time I lightly accelerated while doing over 80kph I could feel the shake which felt from rear end.. When coasting it's smooth. Which is got me thinking the cv joints in teg rear drive shafts? As I know the shafts need replacing as they have a fair a pint of play in the inner joints (tripod style ones) .. Around town it's fine though 🤔 Suppose what I'm asking is can rear drive shafts worn cause a vibration like this? If it was brake booster I would have thought it wouldn't stop as soon as I took foot of accelerator 🤔

Getting this weired sound from drivers side belt area of engine. Anyway it comes and goes ..not overly load but very noticeable. It stops if I have high beam on....or if I run steering wheel slightly at idle or if I put it into reverse or drive. Basically once system is under load it stops. All pulleys and belt and accessories are new. Water pump alternator...compressor pulley power steering pump. Anyway today I noticed that the near new GMB pump pulley has a large wobble in it when spun by hand...can't really notice it when running though but it's a large wobble by hand .this wobble seems to be that actual plastic pulley and not the metal shaft itself. I'm thinking belt is running off hence the sound...what Yous reken?

How old is bottom hose? It's quite possible it's sucking in. Factory ones have a spring in it I believe. Most aftermarket do E but if it's old it can get spongy and suck in. Also make sure fans are working correctly. There is 3 relays. Try swapping them around Aswell but if you bottom hose looks suss I'd be betting it's that. I would replace it

Hey mate I have similar issues and also this exact code on my ba xr6t now Aswell. Mine was open loop faulting. I tracked that to bad oxygen sensor wireing....fixed that. Change oxygen sensor Aswell. But also had TPS... throttle pedal....and 2 other oxygen sensor codes that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did till I swapped around the ess(?) Relay and came good but the p0172 code I am yet to get rid off and it's using a fair bit of fuel again What I'm about to try is the CHT sensor as it's reading that it's at 1/4 on guage no matter tragic the jumps up a little then down just as quick. ..other thing is I was gonna check vacume leaks again and also fuel pressure return restriction in line as the FPR is fine/new. Don't like using bucket loads of fuel haha

All good Thanks

Thanks. So in a stock tune does it affect economy etc if it's playing up? ....just trying to work out what it actually does and can do if failing/treading wrong but not wrong enough to cause a code yet

The boost map sensor on the boost pipe. What's it purpose? I've read some say you don't need this some say you do. I'm not looking at removing it etc but wondering if it can stuff up without registering a code? And also how long do these last on average? Have read it can stuff around with fuel economy and boost fluctuations etc Mine original at 380 000ks. So wondering if this is something people see fail over time in these cars

Should be U2197 and U2196

Ba xr6t Running fine for last month no issues after I had a open fault loop issue which was wireing for the 02 sensor way down in wireing loom . Anyway today wife says it started missing just after she left thismorning but came good eventually. When I got home I checked codes and it through all these P0122 P0124 P0172 P0223 P0224 P1131 P1132 U1900 U2197 U2197 These are related to 02 sensor...TPS sensor...pedal sensor....the U ones are aparantly the speed input to cluster not there . I'm lost really. I contacted injectronics and asked them they said it could be pcm but not a common issue these but to check wireing to throttle body and pedal switch . Some say wireing at coils or even coils causing it Everything's new or almost new Has anyone had these codes similar to what I'm getting and found the issue?

Good work but must say you can get new bush for the ends. It's allot easier to do then whole cable and can be allot cheaper sometimes

Yeah seems that secondhand ones are hard to get now aswell haha I think O will be able to make one up froma couple bends and pipe

Anyone know if there is a aftermarket factory style intake pipe for a ba bf turbo...it's the plastic pipe that goes from crossover pipe to the font of turbo houseing. Yes I'm aware there's sh*tloads of othwr kits to rid of it but after this actual pipe factory style. Ford no longer do them

Think I've narrowed issue to map sensor or wireing. Ba xr6t Ok so at koeo the output is 1.8 v going by forscan Engine on its .85 volt Now I've just checked what volt is a wireing loom to sensor withulti Meyer and I'm getting 4 wires was 1. 0v 2. 4.95 3. 4.98 4. 5.37 this right?? I wiggled wires yanked them etc didn't change Downt seem correct to me as shouldn't at least one be a feed back wire to pcm so shouldn't have any volts? 😕 Or does it at key on then switchs to a signal wire?

I know it's a bit old now but did you ever fix this issue??

Also just rescanned for codes and none in pcm but did have a low battery code in bem battery is fine though and yes tested etc it's fine

Thanks all. Swapped injectors and reset battery ...thought I was onto something as it idles fine...O2 sensor was fine and reading as it should ...so let it idle for 5-10 min and as I was walking back (when it was warm) I herd it missfire and revs dropped like a mover starving for fuel and it shot revs back up to like 2500 RMP for a couple seconds and slowly idled back down...at this point is idled rough splutted and then started idleing again..although little miss . When this was happening the O2 sensor reading was spazzing out like it was loosing power ...gaining power instantly etc. .. After inlet it idle while it was little rough and wiggled all wireing I could see/get to without burning myself etc and nothing changed Turned it off and yanked the battery cables a little and started it and it seemed fine again.......prob a coincidence as it does come good sometimes Question can a bad engine earth strap cause this...like can it cause stupidly high fuel usage??? And these symptoms. One other thing I noticed was the air con jist randomly tirned off as pulling into driveway when I hit a bump aswell which it never has done that and it also did it in the driveway while this was all happening aswell I

So have had allok. Can find any broken wires or leaks ...fuel reg checks out ok. Have thought and seeing the O2 sensor code it has now it a lean code and system defaults to OL-fald and not closed loop etc. Maybe injector stuffed so computer is just pumping fuel in so it doesn't lean out? Or even fuel pump weak? I know in therory it shouldn't as yeah no fuel through would mean your saving fuel but if computer sees it lean it will hold the injectors open more/longer?? Otherwise if it had a air leak it would idle hell high but it's not and can find any leaks while running

Hi all. Trying to find cause. Ba xr6t. Few week back car just started have random miss at idle or taking off. Took home had codes for TPS and throttle pedal sensor. Oxygen sensor. . So swapped TPS and O2 sensor and was all good for a little bit. . Last week noticed that car had slight miss at idle again. And was idleing higher (slightly .like 50rpm ) so hooked forscan up and had 3 codes for oxygen sensor. So though we'll the one I swapped with maybe it was I <3 Bananased. So bought new Bosch one. Came good perfect. Drove it couple days but I <3 Bananas then noticed it was drinking fuel .. Today for 1/4 tank it only done 62ks.....can smell it running Rich and has a oxygen sensor code lean. ...no other codes But when was on forscan noticed O2 sensor was at .85 volts and steady and also it's stuck in OL-fault. It did switch to open loop for about 20 min while driveing and ran smoothly but then while cruising home at 60 kph it droped back to OP-fault. Seems to be stuck in this OL-fault mode hence why it's drinking fuel Now over last few months I've replaced every sensor and injectors etc as I wanted to change Al those but I'm not ruling any sensors etc out. They were not eBay junk either though. I've read a bit and seems it could be the coolant/head temp sensor? Or fuel pressure/injector. I've checked the fuel reg (it's also only few weeks old) and fuel pump is about 6 months old no vacume leaks I did do a Kam reset through forscan which I've done before without issues so hopefully that hasn't caused any issues as I did this after I did the TPS sensor Any suggestions would be great. It's gone from useing about 14. Lph round town to now 24 lph round town and climbing

Hi. Does anyone know if the locating bush on a ba xr6 turbo tail shaft slip yoke is removeable? I've been told they are just trying to work out how. Long story...bout a year and half ago changed the rubber coupling and it was seized on and pulled the bush out aswell. So I just slapped it all back and been ok since but would like a better fix. I have a non turbo slip yoke that has a almost new looking bush etc Would they be same size turbo and non turbo? (Bush part itself) and how do you remove them? I have a press etc just want to know how to remove it

What was the outcome on this? I'm betting it would be rings or ring land? On number 5

Update....so weired but it hasn't done it since I've kept the irridiums 1.1 mm gaped plugs in. I even tried it again couple weeks later with 1 mm copper plugs and it overboosted....old plugs back and fine. It's always used to have a overboost issue. When randomly overboosted but these plugs made it do it instantly O