jas98

cheers mate, thanks for the info ill do that then leave the front pressed arm rubber, rest change

how do they do the diff bush without droping cradle? the bolts to long? also the control blade bushs you need to remove the arms which is not that hard, like 5 nuts/bolts each side and its off

yup all done. its like this Front-super pro: -upper control arm bushs -both lower control arm bushs near new ball joints Rear: -Whitline control blande bushs (best thing ever in arse end of car!) -nolthane sway bar mounts heavey duty ball type rear links rest OEM bushs (bout 20 000 k's old) so im debating about doing it as it wont take long to do once its out, as I have a press I have super pro diff bush's ready to go in aswell , its all different branded bushs as I got em all for cheap as prices, at the moment the bushs only owe me 200 bucks and thast including the diff bush's however should I lean the arm the spring sits on OEM bush? as I have herd going a harder bush will cause problems?

have to remove me diff in comming weeks for replacement. anyway while I have it all apart should I replace the lower control arm and upper control arm inner piviot bushs to a harder bush? like nolthane? I was told to lean the lower control arm that the spring sits on rubber but what about the others? all bushs were replaced with oem style bushs not long ago so they should stiull be ok but would I get much beter handleing? the big control blade bushs are whitline rest on arse end is OEM its for a ba xr6t sedan

its not undoable however it will cost far less and you will achieve far more just sellling and getting a xr6t

I have a x force cat back and it hits on the diff cradle, stupid sh*t, lol

do you have a sterioe system? with a CAP? I think no 1 fues is sumthing to do with your cluster (speedo, etc)

you can tell by the numbers on the side. I cant remeber the turbo numbers I think non turbo has AB in the number. however as said there really aint a great deal that's different. im running a N/A box with turbo converter and its been all good for almost 2 year now

could try disconnecting the siren and see if it still drains it?

if theres a battery back up for the alarm it will be part of the actual siren...internally. if it not holding charge the whole unit is stuffed.

im getting rid of mine next time I work on mine. heaps of people dont reintall them without problems...actually I have never herd of any dramas removing them

ah ok. yeah I know there were different part numbers but measured up the same....maybe I was just lucky haha

theres the cars battery and then theres the battery in the remote......pretty obvious

are we talking lower control arm that the spring sits on? if so my BA xr6t sedan has a FG arm on the left and a BA on on right, I needed a new one as it was slightly bent. it works fine and was same lenght etc just a tinny bit differnt at where the spring sits...seemed a little stronger. deflinally a fg arm as I got it from ebay still in box it came from ford lol wheel alighnment was fine aswell....

yeah, rip it off,been done prenty of times and no ones had a problem

saw the same here on a red one the other day, cant belive how stupid there getting....looked like shot!! then saw a VE omega with it yesterday.....wtf

yeah, im not saying its your prolem but mine *different racks though..) was forceing itself back when turning sometimes undrivable. asked a few steering joints and they said it sounds like the rack, one said the valve in the rack must be worn slightly causeing a change of fluid direction? or sumthing......anyway a $200 reco rack from ebay fixed it up real good.

yes where is the earth?

I had this with my ba xr6t a new rack fixed it, was forceing itself back with allot of force

^I was thinking the same........

so the other stock ba's ive seen that are 6psi are wrong? also was told this by a tuner on these sites that its 5- 6psi so its ment to be 4-5psi? also the actuator was installed by Previous owner as it boosts quicker or some sh*t.....but I have a stock one to put on now to be safe as I was getting overboost in colder weather

on my stoc turrbo and houseing (besides 8 psi actuator)when I had it apart for aengin mount swap I noted that the flapper gets caught on the houseing when opening and closeing.......now I want toremove turbo again for other reasons so while its off should icarefully use a dremal and clean up the burrs untill it does not get caught? cars running fine just wanna make sure

stock is 6 psi......I knosw why its spiking to 7 psi as it has a 8 psi actuator (previous owner) on it. but they are 5-6 psi stock, if its less you have a boost leak or actuator problem I.e. actuator or solenod it used to go to 6-7psi when I brought it 1.5 year ago

haha, so its worth more? lmao

yup, better then the standard cop chip..... but yeah makes no difference what so ever but that's what the computer said at ford when he ran my vin