jas98
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Everything posted by jas98
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Different O2 Sensors Front To Back Of Turbo B Series?
jas98 replied to FiftyOne's topic in ECU Workshop
I have a blue connector sensor that I got with a cat I had. I have a BA xr6t which has one green sensor only (no blue). ford told me the blue ones are 250 new and green 140 if your after a blue one I have one for $40 works perfect as it did on the donor car -
never seen mine do it.
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Turbo Flutter/dose. How Damaging Is It Really?
jas98 replied to patrol_maverick's topic in Turbo Workshop
your turbo will spin backwards and unicorn will blow out the exhaust with magical dust.... It will not harm it -
with a side of piston?
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that's the same company that aslo told me not to use there 7psi actuator unless I have a tune afterwards......
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As said will need a different actuator, if your handy with a spanner you could install it yourself
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boost leak for sure
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so far cheapest I have come accross is 300 bucks. however as mine has the center UNI joint as long as I can get one from any other car with same uni joint as the rear CV is the same turbo or non turbo BA (going by hardy spicer)
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plenty or people with large power stick to genuine throttle body for a reason
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hi I need a new cv joint for my tail shaft its the rear one. does anyone know besides hardy spicer that sell these? and im not after stupid power etc just a standard replacement. I know commodores ones are like 40 bucks but I doubt mine would be haha
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on a stock xr6t ba would the f6 snocle make a difference? for sum reaon mine has 2 holes cut in the areayou have shown but no snorkel etc.....
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I had same codes however mine is untuned. I replaced 02 sensor but still there after fed days, also running bad at idle etc. after a few weeks I got hold of a new fuel reg chap as chips so replaced it but as soon as I removed the clip for it I could tell something was wrong. the little oring in it was split so I had low (?) fuel pressure and im guessing somtimes allot? after that codes went away
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either: new nut or some lick tight but must be dun up to 255nm to 305 nm, 9pretyty sure my book says front are 255nm and rear 305 nmm but I did all up to 305 nm)
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thanks! both sides of the cradle are the same so im thining its just one of fords little stupid things like any manufacture lol
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yeah that's what I was thinking, it just would be better for future if the bushs ever needed replaceing again. the only reason I can see why would be because its easyer to get to, but any half decent shop coud see there in back to front and tighten lol
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anyone?
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nah the one the springs sit on it bolted under the diff, thts the other arm that's bolted near the fuel tank etc
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Ok this may have been answerd before so sorry On the rear of a BA (BF etc) the lower control arm that the spring sits on, the bolts that hold it to cradle you have to take the diff out to remove. is there any reason why I cannot put them in the other way round to make it 100% easyer to remove if need be in future? as I have to take diff out in comming weeks anyway. is there a reason why there put in that way??
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how an you tell if it need replacing? I know on commdores they make a pretty noise lol mine on me BA xr6t is still original at 240 000 k's
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well been a couple weeks since installed and they seem fine, will keep an eye on them
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need one of these
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nah, looks fine to me, splits in them areas mean nothing its only the solid parts that would cause problems as where that split is its just a very thin bit of rubber, part of the manufacturing process
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Seems tobe allot of this lately. Ijn checked mine the other week and bent those tabsbs bk in as it was almost popped out. Lucky I got it in time
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Diff And Blade Bushes Can They Both Be Done Using Ford's Special T
jas98 replied to Breeze_xr's topic in Driveline Workshop
yeah its mainly labour costs. I have herd of the cradle being droped a little to do diff bushs but never herd of it staying where it is to do it without (as mentioned) drilling a hole in spare wheel well
