jas98

Mine was allot louder......extremely loud. But was exhaust leak at number 1 cylinder and also others were leaking a bit too...quiet as now. Only a slightvtappet ick for half a second at start up which ain't bad for 280 000 ks

I know I asked a while back in this thread about using standard copper plugs on my ba xr6t stock standard. I have not yet as the plugs in there were the iridium. Anyway after burning out a couple coils and also a exhaust massive exhaust manifold leak I would like to replace plugs again. So let me get this right I need to gap them to .9 mm? Or. 8 mm and change every 10 000ks at a minumum. The supercheap parts guide has some autolite ones for under 4 bucks bit.I'll go with ngk

Have same problem on my ba turbo. It's the heater core.

Boost leak....

Yeah had a ex mechanic from work look. He said straight away manifold leak so I'll have to confirm it. Bidets is fat? Similar but not the same. My noise is more of a tap tap popping sound that sound sounds like a timing chain?? Or belt tensioner f*cked?

ais it more so a loud tapping sound mainly while cold?

Thanks guys. I'm goofing it's exhaust gasket too. Will rip off heat shields and have a look. Forgot to get a recording thismorning but started it up with bonnet up and f*ck it's really loud. Gradually Came quiet after about 3 min then when lightly roving it I herd it for about. Second. Anyway the noise is coming from the front part of the Manifold closest to power steering pump. Also can smell exhaust fuels. Hopefully it's the type of gasket I used a couple year ago not sure. Worst case timming chain? Or would timming chain do it all the time? Will keep updated

Ba xr6t stock. At startup massive ticking sound at startup. If idle for a while comes good but can still faintly hear it every now and then especially when accelerating lightly. I only started noticing this noise loudly after I accelerated quickly and as it was boosting (6 psi) there was a pop sound like a backfire from engine area....could be completely unrelated though. Also seems to be running slightly thirstier. But allot of things could be causeing that. I'm thinking exhaust manifold gasket. I'm hoping it's not the timing chain guide f*cked...... Any ideas? I'll get a recording of it when I start it up cold again although does do it when warm startup but not as bad

Control blade bushs. Replace with superpro or whistling. Not genuine

Thanks for that. Do you know of anyone that sell them? I see heaps on eBay bit all say for non turbo. Ford told me earlier that thevturbo ones u have to buy the whole shaft at $1800...as they only make the non turbo ones separate...I see there is an alloy one on eBay that says for all...non turbo and turBo. Which means there saying there the same. So does anyone make just a rubber one that rits

Thanks for that. Do you know of anyone that sell them? I see heaps on eBay bit all say for non turbo. Ford told me earlier that thevturbo ones u have to buy the whole shaft at $1800...as they only make the non turbo ones separate...I see there is an alloy one on eBay that says for all...non turbo and turbo...bit isothermal any just rubber ones

Haha... cheers man. So from what I can gather the cv joints the same. Uni joints the same and depending on the shaftvthey use same centre bearing? But the rubber part near gearbox are different? How do unrecoverable that I have unbolted all 6 bolts but it still won't split

I ment tail shaft not tail gate. So anyone know??

J to want to know how to separate that flange but without them bolts on it will clunk badly

Can anyone confirm that the cv joint that bolts to the diff on the tailgate on a ba xr6tsedan same as Mon turbo ones? Hardy spider list them as the same but are they?? I have one from a low k xt.

How do u test misfires with forscan??

Hasn't done it since. I checked battery it tested fine also checked all earth straps and terminals and there clean etc. Another ideas?

That is the firstvthing I will ever do to suspension on one of these cars. I to had same noise. Was driving me nuts as I replaced them with oem ones and still there. So got sum whitening bush's and will never look back drives so much better to

My ba xr6t had that. I found the rear rose joints stuffed. There called a few other things beside rose joints. Also still had slight knock there so was a combination of the wheel bearings and control blade bushs

Also diff bush is relatively new but I'll check it out

Battery is a year old 650 cca acdelco. Now that u mention battery, it does start quickly etc besides once the other morning.Seemed to have a slow crank but fired first go. I will have to check the earth's and battery terminAl's. The alternators charging correctly as it has a turbo timer that also reads what voltage it is and while running it's around 14.1 to 14.5

Ba xr6 turbo sedan. Today hoped in started and went then realised air con didn't work...at this point saw code displayed on icc unit. Turned car off and in and everything in wad working again. Any ideas? Only thing I can think of is I hoped in Car started and went straight away.normally wait like 5 to 10 seconds before putting it in gear and going. Could that cause it?

Wheel bearing?

Been reading and have read allot about plain rotors being just as good as slotted rotors these days due to the brake pads these days. So I ask is there really anyajor benefit in using slotted over plain these days? I'm in need of new rotors. I have the ba premium front brakes on my ba xr6 t . They have not warped at all just worn to the sh*tta Cause of the pads used. I know people will say to use dba etc but I can get plain for 141 or slotted and dimpled for 201$

Smaller one is if u have the oem bush with the steel shell and you leave the shell in there and just remove the rubber I think