jas98

But yes also codes come back after a couple days so I'll have to check timming ...I'll remove comer in next few days and see

Also do the cam phasers fail on these? Cars done like 406 000 ks on engine and on startup sometimes there's a rattle from top and for say 2-4 seconds then instantly quiet again. Or can a cam solenoid also cause them to rattle at amstart up? As I know there's a pin in the phasers that locks etc

Changed both cam sensors with a couple spares I had other day. Car seems to be idling slightly better but it never was a rough idle anyway . Anyway checked codes before and code was there again however I can't remember if I cleared code or not other day before sensor change. I've been reading and usually that code is a skipped chain but also a vct oil supply issue aswell. I know at start up sometimes there a lifter tick (very loud) that goes aways after like 5-10 seconds that it has had over the last couple years but always comes good ....unless if the vct solenoids causing it but there like 2.5 years old..ultra tech branded ones Other thing is if timming has skipped surely there would be another code aswell plus I would assume it wouldn't go as good as it does and idle would be bad? I will rip cover off and check timming marks anyway and... Yes I need to monitor and log ..but I'm trying to work out how I play back on forscan to watch it haha

Awsum yeah I'll do that. Also just thought and also read that the cam sensor can cause stalling ...can also cause that code to pop up (and also no code sometimes) and a few symptoms I've had in past and I know it's the original sensor ...I have. A spare one here so I'll chuck it on and gox from there aswell

I can get a better log later but this is what I mean. Someone told me that it looks fine...but yeah obviously not haha

Well when I revit it seems to go to 0 on both It's hard to tell. I do have a vid but won't upload due to it being to large file

That's will do. Also do these filters have to be installed or can be left out? And also if it had low oil pressure could that be an issue? Surely I'd have other issues. I just say that as I read a post about someone have low pressure causing codes

Hahaha So....it still drives etc but yeah that would explain fuel economy issue I guess 😂

Have done a small log. But U sure wtf I'm looking at really ...also while I was reving the engine gentlely at about 2200 rpm and took foot off accelerator slowly it stalled like instant stall...no splutter etc and wife also told me now it did same other day for her. But yeah the VCDADV2 and the VCDADV were both at like -9 to -10 at idle...when reved they did drop near to zero Vcadverr ones were basically 0 or went to 0.33 etc

Thanks heaps. I will have to do some checking. I have been told by someone who tunes that a lazy vct solenoid could cause this aswell but was told to do exactly what you have told me to do (just didn't get told how to do it haha) Then I'll need to work out what it all means while monitoring it lol I'll get back to you once I have Cheers

Thanks. Where in forscan will I see this? Is it when monitoring while running engine? Obviously I'll have to select it in settings

Ba xr6t turbo seems to be drinking fuel lately...more then it usually does haha Anyway last week showed a code for trying to compansate for a overly lean condition so I changed 02 sensor. As it did say possible sensor issue... Today I decided to scan it again and only code it has in PCM is now a P1386 code.... timming over advanced bank 2. I cleared code. Took it for a drive for like 4 min and came back and no codes came up but I believe it will show back up again after a few drives. Does this sound like skipped chain? I'm Can a bad actuator solenoids or sensor cause these? Or should I try data logging if so what should I look for. I'm using forscan software if that helps It does drive ok..but kinda feels a bit down on power/response down low ..up high it seems to go better lol Cheers

Hi all...what I thought was tailshafe shaking I'm not sure now. Ba xr6t stock tune Basically when giving it some...like medium to heavey acceleration from stand still for example ..there a pretty noticeable shack in car that I can feel in accelerator lightly but really shakes car...feels like engine is lagging heaps ..also seems to only boost at like 2 psi...kinda like it hits a dead spot..... Accelerating slowly like a granny it seems ok...yes it using up a bit more fuel...it's never been great on fuel though Now it seems to do this not allllnthe time but say 90% of the time Forscan gives zero codes. Could are genuine...prob have like 50 000ks on em. Spark plus about 15 000ks. All intake gaskets are fine as was replaced not long ago. Basically I have had dead coils in past and it's always Benn the brrrrrr brrrr type missfire...this ones a shake . I have checked fuel filter and it was fine but I changed it anyway...I'm thinking it's a missfire as like I said it's chewing more fuel but I would have thought I'd get a code for a missfire?

Ona ba xr6turbo the valve control solenoids. If these are playing up can they not set a code? Basically I replaced the solenoids last year with new fuelmiser ones which are ultrtech branded. Lately the idle seems to a bit rougher(not missing ) exhaust bote seems a bit veafier aswell at idle ..like a very very very mild cam ..also sometime it seems a bit underpowered to other times the car. Not to mention fuel usage is high...but everything seems ok. Sooo want to eliminate these as being an issue. How do I check these in forscan? Can I see what there doing? Wat should it read at idle?

So have seen a few different brands of spark plugs lately and wondered what people have used in there turbos. Yes well aware of NGK and Genuine but has anyone used topaz spark it's before? Or even tri power? Surely a few have though

Ok so needing to replace abs module in ba xr6t sedan mk1 Mines a 3r23-2c353-ab One I'm getting is from a ba MK2 ...3r23-2c353-ac What's difference in the AB and AC? I've heard people having no issues using them in either aslong as pipes match and rest of numbers Is it just production run coding?

Ok so those trans codes as said come and go however there not there anymore. This p0500 code is and also a u2197 is all modules except twh abs. So abs is getting a signal but pcm is either not or is but not releasing data correctly? Battery tested perfect on load test. He did say it seemed low on volts though 🤔🤔 but CCA was 560. So far I have come across 2 exact same issues I have and one guy never said if he fixed it or now and other guy waw becaus he had HID bulbs something about the ballast causing a power surge at startup?

Hi getting a p0500 in PCM code Aswell as u2197 code in the HIM BEM and IC modules. Car is a ba xr6t sedan. No codes in ABS module It seems it's either a issue with the wireing of pcm? Am I correct in this? It only does it at start up and throws car into limp.mode with no Speedo Aswell. Turn car off and on and is ok again most of time. I have read a post were someone had exact same issue and it was there HID bulb ballast causeing issue as they unplugged it and was fine.....but I don't have them

Thanks So rescanned it this Arvo and now has a code in BCM for low battery Honestly unsure why again battery causeing issues and it's first time low battery has caused this issue anyway...if it is. No idea why yet again battery issue as it's about 5 months old if that and was tested fine. And all battery cables are perfect. New alternator .. and been tested fine. Maybe I'm just having bad luck with batteries 😂😂

Thanks. Soooo it did it again today...same thing turnoff and on again and fine. I have checked a few things but nothing seems out of ordinary I've been told the right rear abs sensor is one the pcm uses for Speedo. Is this correct? Even though no code for that particular sensor could it still be that? Also can reseating the BCM module help with this or is it more a dash reseating? Thanks

Hi ba xr6t sedan stock tune Yesterday started car and P was flashing ..went to drive and D was flashing. And was in limp mode as was stuck in third with no Speedo Aswell. Turned off and on again and been fine since. Scanned and found some codes relating to modules not recivering speed input however the pcm had a code for P0500 Also 2 other codes which come and go but never caused issues unless it's related now? But these codes are P8026 P8028 Any help thanks Also battery is near new 660 CCA and was also tested at 663cca. However wife did mention it sounded like it struggled to start other day so maybe earth issue??

When changing a cv boot on the inner cv (factory shaft) on a ba rear drive shaft is it crucial to reinstall join in exact same spot.on shaft? Reason I ask is well ...I never marked it and have zero idea the exact spot It came from haha. Joints are fine it's just the boot was split so changed that. ...I haven't installed shaft yet. I did read that shafts with inner plunger joints and cv outer ones don't need to be "clocked" but the repair manual does state to mark it .. Soooo is it actually required haha

Haha yeah shots are good 😂 Yeah I'll check all that. But I know the drive shafts are extremely worn as U can hear clicking when showing down etc . I have a genuine pair waiting to go in but haven't had time lol I'll get under and check everything Aswell. I have read it's common this issue with worn cv joints but mainly front wheel drive not rear ..so was wondering

Hi all. Trying to figure out a vibration/complete car shake in my ba xr6t sedan. Before say it's brake booster I don't believe so as have tried that trick and the symptoms are a bit different and tail shaft seems ok Aswell So driveing today ona shortish trip (100ks away) and was all good going there as had a clean run. On way back was allot of traffic...slow traffic so naturally when overtaking lane comes you go around. Anyway was doing about 85kph. Then started to accelerate...not heavyly but enough and got to about 110kph and noticed a decent vibration/shake in my arse and center concept was shaking ..wife could also feel it In her seat. Now I got to 120pkh and as soon as I lifted foot from accelerating it was smooth....also noticed on what home every time I lightly accelerated while doing over 80kph I could feel the shake which felt from rear end.. When coasting it's smooth. Which is got me thinking the cv joints in teg rear drive shafts? As I know the shafts need replacing as they have a fair a pint of play in the inner joints (tripod style ones) .. Around town it's fine though 🤔 Suppose what I'm asking is can rear drive shafts worn cause a vibration like this? If it was brake booster I would have thought it wouldn't stop as soon as I took foot of accelerator 🤔

Getting this weired sound from drivers side belt area of engine. Anyway it comes and goes ..not overly load but very noticeable. It stops if I have high beam on....or if I run steering wheel slightly at idle or if I put it into reverse or drive. Basically once system is under load it stops. All pulleys and belt and accessories are new. Water pump alternator...compressor pulley power steering pump. Anyway today I noticed that the near new GMB pump pulley has a large wobble in it when spun by hand...can't really notice it when running though but it's a large wobble by hand .this wobble seems to be that actual plastic pulley and not the metal shaft itself. I'm thinking belt is running off hence the sound...what Yous reken?