Lawsy

It ain't a porsche is it? The 94 carrera4 was a NA 3.6 6cylinder... Give us a price range ya mut... I don't know if you have copious amounts of green flow or whether your barrel scraping... But if its the former, then that's my guess.

ummm Scotty....you missed one.

Speechless....

Pretty much, like I said in another thread, if it can be built, it can be taken appart if needed, and that applies to safes. Since this is not a safe, but a gearbox, it should be somewhat easier to pull appart... Therefor, parts can be re machined and strengthened/lightened/modified if the right tools and finances permit.

The XR8 is apparantly going to be running so close to the legal exhaust volume limit that the EPA weren't too impressed, but can't do a thing about it because the limit is set where it is for a specific reason and as long as its under, its under... Like winning, whether by an inch or a mile, the result is the same...

Something just doesn't sound right about that... This boost stuff should have the pinging tendancy of a low level race fuel (but race fuel nonetheless), which is much sounder than anything you can buy at the pump. That is, it SHOULD have this quality, maybe the production mix has a lower percentage of oxygen mixed through, because it just shouldn't be possible to get a better timing range out of a non alcohol fuel than with one.... I think we'll all have to wait and see.....

That is infact incorrect. The natural rating of this fuel is 102 without the corrision inhibiters in it. They've had to 'over inhibit' the stuff to 'water down' the fuel and bring it to within the regulations for australian premium fuels; 98. It won't corrode anything, even if you left it somewhere for 3 months, it just won't react while in the presence of these inhibiting chemicals... Infact, from what I've learnt about how they kept the fuel to within 1% of the 98 rating, this stuff has enough inhibiters mixed through to safely handle a 15% ethanol mix. And this will really get you..... A 15% mix would yeild a fuel that would have enough oxygen through it to theoretically be comparable to a 20hp shot of nos at WOT accross most of the rev range... Yep, its good gear, and it should allow some pretty psycho timing advances....

Guys I know it sounds strange but it does happen ive now had 2 cars that will not do as there told 1 std auto mki ute 220rwkw ceiling no matter what I do and another today at 316rwkw but should have seen 350+!!!! no explanations no anythinge do all the checks but you hit the ceiling and that's it! more boost less power less boost less power more timing less power less timing less power more fuel less power less fuel less power std or aps exhaust same power std or larger cooler same power go figure!!! just give them another go theyll sort it out!!! if not I'm happy to check it out quickly on my sydney tuning trip! C&V know better though, they know not to crap onto people... Let them know your a member here (because they know that like, 99% of there influencial XR6T customers are members of this forum) and on that alone will give it another try to make sure its right....

That thing would probably beat a WRC spec car up a hill (but not on dirt).... Now that's fast!

What I think is funny is that the demo cars all seem to go alot harder than the non demo cars. I definately think this I6 likes to be run in hard. We ran the ghia in soft, and I can tell. It seems to be down about 10kw everywhere. It just lacks any edge in comparison to every other 182 I've driven. Soft run ins do that.

Backfire + bridge accustics = VERY LOUD. Definately sounds like a meaty backfire to me... If everything drives as per usual, this is goto be candidate number 1. Oh and symptoms for a broken CV are, lack of drive, one of the axils flapping about under the car.................

Actually, I'd get it checked out anyway... Last I heard these diffs were meant to limit the torque to either wheel to above a 30/70 ratio. So either wheel must have at least 30% of the torque (or something like that). So if one is spinning in the wet and not the other, this means only like 10% of the torque has actually made it to one of the wheels... that's just not enough. If I can get both wheels to spin in a 182kw Ghia with an open diff in the wet, then with even just 10/90 split should get both to light up in a turbo. My point is, if just 30% torque to one of the wheels is enough to get them to both light up in the dry, then a crap load less torque should get them both to light up in the wet. So no, I don't think everything is right here. Get it checked by someone other than ford, obviously.... Then change diff oils to whatever mal wood recommend. Apparently they have changed oils in quite a few diffs and this solved many different, seemingly unrelated problems....

Its all the little 1 - 2 percent improvements throughout the car that will make the difference. I bet the car will just seem that much better but you won't be able to really tell why... Like an average rugby team.... Just because a team gains one of the best forwards on the feild, doesn't mean that this team is going to suddenly win everything if the rest of the team don't improve... It requires all the players to play together as a team and improve together. A car is the same thing. The best engine in the world stuck in an old dato is great fun for a drag car, but in most respects, would simply suck. But, having a great engine mated with a great drivetrain pushing a great chassis holding a great interior, is a team worth backing, and that's the way I see this upgrade. Improvements throughout which will make an overall better package. It might not sound like much has changed, but I'll bet that when you all go for a drive that it will just seem 50% better... But you won't exactly know why... Its all about a team effort

Incredibly loud backfire?

He needs more power than the stock electrical system will supply, Either he gets a small whack from a cap, or he hooks in a bigger battery, or runs a secondary battery in the boot. Simple answer to what was really a small problem. SPL has nothing to do with this. Its laughable that SPL has even been mentioned. SPL cars produce ONE TONE under competion circumstances. A capacity has NO AFFECT when the charge draw and the discharge rate are the same (single tone at max discharge rate); the cap will act like a simple wire in this instance (because when a cap is near 0% charge, its charge rate is higher than its discharge rate, thus it acts like normal wire, but a little slower). Because of this, they have to have the electrical system to supply the full current to the amps. So either in comps or out on the street, they alraedy have the electrical system to provide more than enough current... Thus capacitors are made reduntand. But are we talking about SPL cars? NO! We are talking a street car with a good sound system that has no intention on entering a compatition. This is why I'm telling hustler that he hasn't a clue. He isn't addressing the situation and is blatantly talking crap. We have already discussed why, I'm not going to go over it again... This guy hasn't built his car around sound comps. Having subs already cuts boot space, so taking any more away would be even more frustrating and make it harder again to take the subs out if he wanted to go on a long trip and had a bit of luggage. He isn't some punk P plater (and don't tell me that forum isn't full of them... Some of them have the average intelligence of a counter strike forum and are compensating for something, and I didn't say ALL of them, so don't take this out of context) who prioritises his sound gear over... His own life... He has real life priorities and isn't going to change alternators (a basic one is 250+labour, some of the better ones are above 600USD) just to power some subs when a 200 dollar cap will fix his problem easily and give him stronger kicks... I say stronger kicks because remember, when the rest of the system is suffering [lights dimming], this means that the electrical system is maxing out its output power, therefore, its output is slightly limited and thus the big notes may be clipping a little bit as the amp is trying to draw current that simply isn't there; a cap fixes this. Clearly the stock electrical system is a strong one (just not strong enough) so average power delivery is high enough to keep the cap topped up under almost all conditions, bar the big peaks, where the cap provides the hit. Its practical, easy, much cheaper, and will provide crisper bass peaks at the same time. Now move on. And don't mention SPL cars again, or a forum full of people who have a little bit to much time and money.

Apparently they are remixing demanufacture.... Its either going to stay underground or they may, just may, release it... The point was to completely re record demanufacture from scratch as if doing it for the first time... I reckon that would be awesome... I just doubt it will actually be released.

do you need to upgrade your injectors for 240 rwkw?? I would keep standard injectors for that power... spend your money on something else.... unless your really chasing more power then what you said?? I have a unichip and dont intend on getting edit, and the injectors will not supply anymore fuel safely than they already are, 200rwkw on FIST dyno is what they are capable of. Dazza. Get your piggy back, rip it out, and then do a burnout on it or drive over it with a dump truck. Then go and get your car edited by someone else, and you'll have 250rwkw... Get a decent exhaust, intake plenum and intercooler and your stock car will make 250 - 260 with ease.... Plus, it will have a much healthier bottom end with the additional mods...

Probly more like 20-30 mate!!! Ive had 5 different setups myself!! AS dynowog would say, The results speak for themselves!! Let him put his cap in, and we sill see whos right!!! Sounds fair enough to me!!! The subject being, that his lights will still dim, even with his farad cap! Ok, so you have done about 2 installs yourself, figured out virtually nothing, and have spoken to about 2 others about it.... Why do I say this? Because you sound like you don't have a clue... Plus, one of my mates is a sound engineer... He knows best, you don't. Caps = win.... Case closed, lets move on, nothing more to see here.....

Just went out and got the latest Fear Factory's latest, Transgression. Its not to bad... Its different, I'll give them that... Way different. The only thing that anoys me about it so far is that the bass drum is WAY to bassy (like, I love a punchy kick, but this is about 6db over some of the loudest kicks I've heard in a metal band) and the guitards mid range and trebble can split your ears sometimes, but in general is to soft... Appart from that, there are a few absolutely unreal songs on this album, they definately could have done better with another month or 2 in writing, but meh, they didn't.... So yeah, my overall verdict, not that anyone aksed or cares, is about a 7 out of 10 by fear factory's standards.... Obsolete gets a 9, demanufacture a 10 and archetype a 10... So yeah... There you go. BUT, the DVD is cool... So give it an 8 just to be sure.

It doesn't depend purely on size... Some capacitors charge faster than others; this rate is denoted by T. If the T is high enough then it will recharge in time for every kick, but still take enough load off the electrical system to stop the lights dimming... Fact. It doesn't need to do a hell of alot to stop the lights dimming. If it increases the charge time just by 3 (which is a VERY small increase in charge time to the near instant discharge required by a kick) then the lights will not dim as the electrical system can easily feed that sort of current (about 400W total for the entire system). A 1 farad cap will infact, in an 800w system, increase the charge time by something like 5 - 10, not 3. More than enough thank you very much. Most of the time, when people say "I've been down this path way to many times" or "EVERYONES DOING IT MAN!", this usually means 1 or 2. A big everyone is 3, an absolutely massive everyone is 4.... You've probable had 1 experience on the topic. Maybe 2. All a capacitor needs to do is take the noise out of the input current signal. Noise is classified as anythig that disturbs this signal from the source. A lack of current can be considered noise, and a 1 farad cap will easily cope with an 800W sub amp, in whatever configuration it might be. I don't go by the per 500 rule. I say 0.5 farad for the first 300w, then 0.5 farad for every 500w after, not 0.5 per 500w total, I'll always recomment my mates and such to have the 0.5 there for the first 300w. The extra headroom for some reason always makes so many smaller problems just go away... So HUSTLER, sorry mate, but spenind uyp on a better altinator is just stupid. I would do the following, in order. 1. Massive battery, or second battery in series with the first. 2. Capacitor of 0.5f for 300w, 0.5f per 500w thereafter. 3. New altinator if required (almost never unless you want to run a billion what RMS).

BULLsh*t!! PROVE IT The lights are in parallel with a 12V vcc line which is in parallel to the auxilary system, which is in series with the primary electrical system (which is capped). Amps draw more current in a single kick than the entire electrical system on the entire car car. In general, the amps do not draw current at even remotely consistant rates, but usually provide massive hits in short intervals... These hits are in the order of 10 times the cars electrical system (1000WRMS is probably 20 times the rest of the system and about 7 times more than all the lights on the entire car (brakes, blinkers, beams, high beams) on all at the same time). Now just think for a moment... What do you reckon might happen in this situation, seeing as the amps are running in parallel with both the primary and auxilary system. Now, the primary is capped (running the ECU etc) so it is unaffected by a messy/inconsistant input current, but the auxilary system isn't. So either the battery+charge circuit needs to produce enough instant current to feed the amp the full requirement, as well as the electrical system, or act in a certain way as described by the current divider rule. This rule states that the current will split up between different paths of a circuit as a ratio of the resistance down each path, this rule from memory is [Output current down the path of R2]=([input current] *Resistance in R1)/(Resistance in R1+Resistance in R2) or Iout = (Iin*R1) / (R1+R2)) A quick glance tells you that as R2 decreases that the Iout down the path of R2 increases.... Not difficult. Using this with ohms law, you can clearly see that because 'V' is always 12v, that when 'R' decreases, 'I' must increase. And when 'R' approches 0 (never quite gets there, but starts going in that direction almost instantly) then 'I' must also ramp up as a consequence... You work it out yourself, when the battery all of a sudden sees almost no resistance down the path of the amps, what do you think is going to happen? It doesn't take a friggen genius to work that one out... The current is going to go, oh hell yes, and shoot its way down that path, leaving the rest of the system to fend for itself for a while until the ratio resistance is leveled out slightly. So now that you know why the lights will dim, lets tell you exactly why a capacitor is going to remove this affect. Capacitors are seen by the circuit simply as a power source. The circuit connected to the cap doesn't know where the power is coming from, it just knows that it is going to draw current and hopes that the power source can meet its requirements. A capacitor stores charge, like a battery, and charges up over a period of time (a few seconds, whereas a battery takes hours). BUT, it can discharge all of its power at once if need be, a battery is limited by its AmpHour rating. When a sub kicks hard, it is drawing that power from the capacitor, not directly from the electrical system. So after the sub kick has occured, the capacitor is charged by the system at a much slower rate in comparison to the discharge induced by the amps (the sub kick). Even if its a mega quick charging (say, 0.2s to 63%) cap, the current drawn to charge at this rate is MUCH lower than the near instantaneous (a few milliseconds) discharge of the capacitor when the amps require it.... So, basically the system is given time to recharge the capacitor before the next sudden discharge, at a constant and managable rate, than if the discharge had to come from the system itself. Yes, the total average power drawn is the same, but it is able to be drawn over a longer period of time. So, as a consequence, the lights (being part of the un capped auxilary system) wont dim because there is never enough current drawn elsewhere in the circuit to limit the amount of current that can be supplied to this auxilary system... If you can't see what this means, then don't discuss anything technical with anyone, ever again. Infact, wear a T shirt that says "I'm with stupid, me" or "technically illiterate" with an arrow pointing up... Its just SO EASY to understand all this that it isn't funny. Caps charge over time, amps draw near instant current, lights dim from instant lack of current... 2 + 2 = 4... I might be giving you the absolute worst explanation you've ever heard, but this crap is still so basic to see that my pathetic attemp at explaining it should still get the message accross..

As long as the oil is circulating, then everything is fine... When a motor is at a standstill, gravity will naturally drip the oil to the lowest point possible. So, some components are going to have less oil at start up as a consequence. There is enough clearance and just enough tolerence throughout the engine to ensure that, as long as there is oil between any two surfaces, the components will perform to within design parameters and within design component wear. Heres why. It takes roughly 3 seconds for oil pressure hit 95%, a further 3-5s to hit 100% at any point in the system. It then takes another 20 - 40 seconds for any part of oil to do a full circulation of the system (roughly at idle), and another minute or two for each component to well and truely have enough oil and heat to perform its duties under any circumstance... I reckon that's about 3 to 5 minutes, but not 10. If you thrash an engine after its been running for 5 minutes, you'll do no more damage than if you had let it idle for half an hour. So let the car sit for at least 20 seconds before moving off. Apply nothing more than 10% throttle for the next minute or so, no more than say 2500rpm for another minute or so and then drive it like you stole it. After that 3 - 5 minute mark, there is so little difference in the lubrication of the engine that it makes me want to punch TV ever time I see the add 'the first 10 minutes is where most engine wear occures'... Of course it is... But its the same as saying this. If you are taking a 10 hour trip, the first 5 hours is where most engine wear is going to occure... Why? Because most of the engine wear was in the first 3 minutes, and the first 3 minutes just happen to be in the first 5 hours of travel. AMAZING, that truely is. Who would have thought that the first 3 minutes happened first....?!? Idiots.. The 10 minute rule is a load of crap when talking about modern road cars. It only applies on a hand full of older engines, or race engines (some of which require a 20 minute warm up, but for good reason), that's about it. So unless you are running a full bred race car, or a model T, then you don't have anything to worry about after the first 3 - 5 minutes of your drive.

Yesterday, I had a massive post providing ample evidence as to why you would be a moron if you said 'caps make no difference when the car is running'... But decided against it. You can guess the point of the post though. Caps are a great thing to have, regardless. The charging system and the battery DO NOT want to provide hits of 600 or more RMS wattage. It simply is not designed to do so and you WILL get amplifier clipping (where the amp will kick the sub really hard, but not control the 80 - 150hz range at the length of the throw, it 'clips' the sound wave to the big 60hz 'kick' and you lose musical clarity), and you will get a slight 'browning out' on the rest of the un capped system (things like the ECU are capped and are protected from this sort of thing happening). So you goto be kidding me saying caps do nothing when the car is running, my goodness you just goto be retarded not to run caps on a high output system. I reckon 300W or more should run a .5f cap, and add 0.5f higher for every 500W after. The reason I give this extra 200w headway is because you don't want to ever run into the limit of the cap. Some of the metal I play has the kick bassed up so damn high, its rediculous. Once the double kicks get some action you'll find that, in a high powered un capped system, that the kicks will get softer and softer and softer as the charge system and battery struggle to provide 1000wrms every 125ms (fear factory and crypsopsy can both punch 8-10 kicks per second consistantly, rediculously fast feet).... Add a cap and the problems are solved, the kicks stay hard, the amps don't clip and the charge system doesn't weaken. There are heaps of other great reasons to have a cap as well.. Source isolation is one of them, amp feed consistancy is another... 2 very important things if you ask me... There are plenty more and I'm sure an electrical or sound engineer could tell you what they are (can't think of them myself and couldn't be bothered to google it..).

mickq, mind lowering your consumptoin to 20l/100km and sending me the savings? I'd be able to buy a house within 6 months..

Fight the power mickq, love your work... Muz, get off the forums and into MS Word and start typing. Let them know the car is standard, let them know that the officer couldn't possibly have made a proper judgement of the sound and let them know that if the fine isn't withdrawn asap, that they will be incuring all court costs and wages when the judge finds you to be innocent...