Lawsy

Even if its just an outlet for hot air, it could lower under bonnet temperatures by over 10°C. Its ideally placed, at the point where the overbonnet airflow sucks hardest (a few inches infront of the windsheild), and its big enough to cover most of the central part of the bonnet.... Rather than directly increasing power, it would alow the engine to make more power in a slightly more idealistic fassion, with the hot air being sucked out more efficiently, giving the cooling system maybe the slightest, oh so slightest, of helping hands....

What do you do if you've gone the Edit route (mods or not etc), and it comes to the point where there is a bugfix/recall that needs to be applied somehow. Are you up for another custome tune, or can such things be inserted into a custom Edit by ones tuner? Question for the tuners I suppose Yep, that is infact what would need to happen. And this is why I mentioned that Ford should only be allowd to reflash your ECU only if it is a major recall or bugfix. In this instance, I'm sure your tuner will have no issues applying the air/fuel, ignition, timing and cam advance tables accross to a clean, updated, bugfixed stock tune and then re applying the numbers, maybe even give it a quick tweak. Sure, this might cost you another 200 bucks if your tuner wants to be a tight arse, some might do it for 100, some might do it for free... It really just depends on the tuner and how majorly the A/F, timig maps etc are affected by the fix/recall, if at all... Its really a non issue....

Ok it goes like this. Like what others have said already; what you need is the Edit, plain and simple. Powerchips are fine and all, but they are no comparison to the Edit and the functionality that it offers. Powerchip do a great job, but there product isn't even in the same league as the Edit. Double the power increase for only a 60% increase in price ($800+ for a 20 -25rwkw increase or 1300+ for 40 - 60rwkw increase, sometimes less, sometimes more). And that's just the power increase. The overall drivabiliity of the car will be completely transformed, it will be like a totaly different car than what you originally picked up.... Do a search and find some more information out yourself. There are a number of things you need to know. When you get the Edit, you'll need to get it custom tuned (what is it now, $950-1000 for the edit and about $300 - $500 for a custom tune?). In doing so, you'll be able to get it tuned perfectly safe (you could go as far as to say that it is safer than stock) while running on 95 RON fuel, and even a normal unleaded map for that extra crap fuel batch of fuel that seems to happen all too often when transversing this great land. This way, you are covered dispite your location and fuel supply. And regardless of what some may tell you, Ford does not know when your ECU has been edited; as long as you return the car back to its stock tune before each service you'll be fine. You can also specifically tell Ford NOT to reflash the ECU in your car during each service... EVER. The only exceptions being, of course, are recalls of some sort or major bug fixes. This way, everyone is happy. We all know that the car is MORE than capable of handling the power increase from an edit alone, without any noticable increase in wear and tear on the car (appart from your rear tyres ), other than a slight increase in oil usage. But this is completely understandable given that it is a turbocharged car and you are ramping the cylinder pressures up by a couple of hundred PSI over stock (a 5psi increase in boost compressed 9 times and then ignited with the correct amount of fuel = anywhere from 500 to 1000psi, depending on the engine...). So we all know that if anything breaks while you have a mild edit, then ovbiously the hardware that has broken was clearly not up to scratch in the first place and would most likely have broken in the near future anyway. These cars are built with a massive safety margin on components. If they can't handle an extra 40rwkw, then they weren't up to scratch according to basic engineering practice (which gives you a minimum safety net of about 20 - 25%, which just so happens to be a 40 - 50rwkw safety net...) Do you think that it's a coincidence that people xr6T's, with an edit alone, get roughly this much grunt from there cars? I think not.. /ramble.

Nobody asked, but I'd say the easiest way to explain what knock sounds like is that it isn't disimilar to having a miget under the hood, throwing marbels and gravel around in a periodic fassion, in accordance to throttle position and rpm... If this isn't even close to being right, well.... Then I'm certainly screwed...

NOS is not only a power booster, but is also helpful in speeding up the spooling process of oversized turbo's, such as the one Ad's is looking at.... Or the one that spiro's got in his black weapon. Heres one step further: A highly modified XR6T + some top fuel and a tune... Now that would make NOS look soft.

Dish for president.

I'd highly recommend you guys get hotdogs, even if they are only small ones. Cops are starting to check these now, and without a hotdog there, I'd say you'll be well over the volume limit. The hotdog might only take out 3db, so you'll hardly notice it from the inside, but it will take out most of the drone, but leave most of the raspyness.... My 2c

DSC is controlled by the ABS unit and it does care if you are running pizza cutter tyres.The system is calibrated to allow for side wall deflection of the tyres when calculating the amount of intervention required to control the vehicle. Yes, BUT, the system isn't built around the tyres. They have simply picked a value of deflection that will work with most tyres, even ones with stiff side walls or ones that feel like driving on soggy weet-bix....

Neither did I mate, neither did I!! Actually, I was thinking about what I said, basically 'cos I think that Bain's the first person in my 800 odd posts so far that I've actually p1ssed off. I'm not an antagonistic person by nature and I guess I felt bad that I might have offended some members out there by what I said. It wasn't meant as an insult, just an expression of my own (probably outdated) taste. So to Bain and all the other loud BOV loving T owners out there, my unequivocal apologies if my comments have upset or offended you. Vive la difference I say!! I ain't saying nuffin'!! As if appologise... Loud blow off valves sound gay. nuff said. /me waits for someone to take the bait

http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/

Nice, it seems that keeping the AFR's below 12.7 is the magic number... so between 12 - 12.5 is right on the money, nice one.

They do, and that's why you would be stupid to purchase one unless running alot of boost, in which case you want the air to be sucked through the turbo 100% of the time in order to keep it spinning somewhat... Appart from making alot of useless noise, and sapping more fuel, its simply useless doing anything to the BOV under 300rwkw, like JB said.

Has anyone tried the turbonator? The votex block? For 100 bucks it might be worth a look at, a few guys should pitch in (also a money back guarantee) and have 2 or 3 running for the next month or so, driving exactly the same as normal.

The DSC runs via input through the ABS system. It simply measures wheel speed in regards to the other 4 wheels and to the speed you were travelling at before a traction loss occured, as well as yaw and pitch. It doesn't care if you have racing breaks on pizza cutter tyres, with 500kw, it will still do its job independantly of other modification.

That storm doesn't seem to be doing much.... Stupid clouds.

Unless you're going to be running alot more boost, there simply is no point replacing the BOV. And to reverse the standard one is just stupid, the spring works inversly to a normal BOV, reversing the flow under vacuum, so under light loads it acts like an NA allowing air to come strait from filter, bypassing the turbo (under light loads with the wastegate wide open, the turbo isn't exactly spinning all that fast; the air is infact being sucked through it)... So you've done the following. Made your T sound a little louder, allowed a small amount of boost to leak, and you have just lowered you cruising fuel economy... I really don't see the point, just for a little bit of a 'psssht' that can irritate the crap out of all concerned... Each to there own, heck, its your car... PS, OT: WOOT! A massive thunder storm is heading towards my house...

I think its great how people are really giving Nick the respect he deserves these days. Keep it up, ya wog!

Hang on a tick, open loop = WOT yes? Or have I had a brain fiz and mixed the 2 up? And Nick, I'm sure the rest can be edited, you can edit whatever you want... And I thought so Martin... Tuners need to get this and run with it, it's a great feature and needs to be implemented by more people.....

Yes we have done that for both BA and BF 'T's. In a spare slot we can give you back around 2- 3l/100km. I don't see why you cannot phase in a maximum power WOT table over the closed loop variation mentioned above. Sure, it might be a little bit of a sudden jump in power when open loop comes into affect, but who cares? I'm sure you could smooth it out by phasing the ramp rate at certain RPM's to make this virtually unnoticable... Surely this can be done? That would be ideal for most. This would be similar to a mullet. Business at one point, party at another... Get great fuel saving at say, <40% throttle and <2500rpm, then woosh... If you wanna save fuel, you shift below 2500rpm. If you wanna party, give it full throttle (even below 2500rpm) and it will boost up like any other Edited T. I'm assuming that the only reason this isn't common practice is because its difficult to get right... Well, maybe its time some tuners started going down this path, don't you think?

Sounds good... Though, you didn't specify whether the 0's in the exhaust cam table were during WOT or closed loop modes. I do know that a small amount of retard in the exhaust cam at low RPM on turbo cars is still beneficial to emissions and low down torque. You simply can't use as much as in the NA models due the afformentioned back pressure from the turbine... And, since the airflow through an engines inlet and exhaust manifolds can be shown to be 'pressure pulses', even with the backpressure from the turbine, a slight exhaust retard, timed to close just before the back pressure pulse from the turbine reaches the valve, would yeild more grunt through better cylinder evacuation... Well, that's what I figure anyway, there is a high probability that I'm completely wrong, and if that's the case please feel free to let me know so I can get it right for next time. Cheers.

Its sounds purely like the solenoid issue because if it was anything else, a number of different things would be happening. Firstly, the fact that the thing boosted with the bypass in, proves that the ECU is firing out the correct signals, which means that from a software point of view, everything is working correctly. Secondly, if it was the ECU stuffing up, it wouldn't matter what you did; the ecu would be calling 3psi regardless. Also, the fact that the generic tune also gave no boost increase also shows that it isn't, infact, a map function, but rather something mechanical. My point? John did the right thing, so don't disrespect the tuner for doing the right thing (being, letting the customer know exactly whats going on, possibilities and the chance to get it right on another occasion).

Looks the goods mate, well done.

Spoken like a true engineer. Forgotten most of what l learnt at Uni but 746w stuck in my head, took a real engineer to correct me though Too bad I need to study my arse off for the rest of this semester; anything less and failure is imminent... BUGGER!

Its 0.7457kw per hp actually... Well if you start working with 10,000kw diesel conversions, then it makes a difference... Best to keep a habbit of staying as accurate as possible I say....

LOL jeff , its NA ya dork [edit] Quoted before correction [/edit]