Lawsy

I'm just thinking, if you stuff that pedal chop up, you're going to have to make some serious adjustments to the pedal position. I know a few things I CANNOT stand is when; A) The brake is too close to the accelerator making it near impossible to get a size 13 on the throttle, as there just isn't any gap, B) The brake is too far away from the accelerator, allowing you to fit a size 13 between both pedals.... and C) When the height (both virtical height and pedal travel height) is far greater than it needs to be. As in, it feels like the brake pedal is at knee height in relation to the accelerator; even with a good twist you'll never get your foot on both, making heal toeing impossible... Even if A and B are fine. So I'd be taking extra care to make sure you get these right, otherwise driving is going to suck if the pedals are munted. Also, can the fulcrum point on the clutch pedal be moved? If it can, decrease the fulcrum point, moving it toward the load (the clutch), if the positive direction is toward the effort (your foot). I think BCL should look into this, seeing as his clutch is basically snap on/snap off. This might give him a slightly more forgiving drive, without effecting clamping pressure.... One reason I'm mentioning this is because I think you'll also find this helpful if this new clutch has significantly more grab than standard, as I know even the standard clutch can be slightly unforgiving and inconsistent until its bedded in... Another reason I'm posting this is because I've just never heard of anyone being able to do this, and I don't know why. Considering that there is always 1-4cm of travel on either side of the fully engaged/fully disengaged points (in basically every clutch ever made)... Usually 2cm or so at the top and around 5 at the bottom. So there is room to move here... If this is impossibly, I'd love to know why. If it is possible, then I'd love to be able to adjust the fulcrum point on my clutch to suit my drivnig style more (you see, my car has the opposite problem; the clutch is just far too forgiving...).

Mate, you're a weapon. It took you 5 hours to put in a gearbox, on your own, and you haven't done one in this model before. Brilliant, great reading.

Oh good, I was getting worried that everyone was feeling a little stupid tonight.... Basically, you can use a hand held torque wrench to torque down some bolts, or you can use a torque limited rattle gun... Obviously, the rattle gun is going to be slightly easier, but if they both provide the exact requirement for the job, in the end did it matter? No, that's what hes saying. So get the Edit NOW from a good tuner, otherwise you'll shoot yourself for being such an idiot for waiting when you find this out the hard way (and probably pay more).

I can't see any artifacs on the photo, so it looks real enough to me... Though, I do think that the photographer got a fairly lucky shot off... (non intentional, its hard to get right unless you do it for a living, read on). Basically you only need to get a few angles right, leg angles, arm angles etc, and then set whatever object that's in your frame of reference about 2 inces closer to the camera, then have the camera focused on you, moreso than the object that you're trying to make bigger... If done right, you can make basically anything look 10% bigger, with only moving everything a few cm's here and there.... It is really quite deceptive but is done in photography all the time.

Should have went past him sideways I would have :D (ok, maybe not, wouldn't want to risk the paint....).

That cam must seriously be helping as well...... That is just so much power for so little effort (read:boost)... Just unreal.

Well you're in the right place then

No one has dumped on the unichip. I think I was the closest to dumping on it by saying 'don't bother, go edit' but that's about it. Your sig says "Soon to be Edited" fpvT6.. When that happens you'll understand....

GET A LOAD OF THIS GUY ← MrBean, don't wait for your email notification. Goto the nizpro website, find there phone number and give them a call directly. Or just drop by there shop. You seem to know what you're doing, your post was a text book example of what you would want to do on a grumpy, old school V8 build, but you'll find that alot of it is simply not required on this engine. You will have a bullet proof bottom end with alot less modification, and you'll still have plenty of fun and headaches putting it all together yourself, so don't worry about that part.... A few things to note: You'll be able to run the standard computer, custom tuned via the CAPA Edit. It can be tuned to perfectly fire larger, more capable injectors with fine atomisation. You'll find plenty of information on how strong the bottom end can get, information on the right pistons, rods, beams and bolts, as well as cam profiles (see BCL's car, you'll probably want that cam profile for over 400rwkw, note that the power range is moved up around 1000rpm with that profile, but the off boost power is also increased... Win win.) from the boys at nizpro... You'll basically be able to source everything from or through nizpro and other members/sponsors/affiliates etc, of the forum... I'd also suggest just going out and getting yourself a 2nd hand XR6T ute that's in good condition, with everything in perfect mechanical order... I don't know if there are any around, but you might even find a BF ute 2nd hand at a reasonable price... But I'd say that would be a pretty hard find, seeing as the BF hasn't been out all that long... Good luck with it all mate and keep us all updated, its about time another project hit the forums... We've heard basically nothing from BCL, spiro or that guy from america for far to long...

Yer but a dodgy dyno can get a honda civic to read somethign similar. I maybe wrong though. ← Er... that's nizpro mate.... Only the most highly respected tuning force on the forums...

Because the redline is variable. If the engine oil and trans fluid (on the ZF trans) is not up to temperature, the redline is lower than normal temps. Also, if the trans gets too hot, the ECU will lower the redline. ← Hes right you know.... And when everything is running normal, and you've done about 15 minutes worth of spirited driving (and therefore getting a full 200 point score (look it up)) then you'll get a 6250 redline instead..... Also note that, in 1st and 2nd gears, the tacho is almost always about 0.1s behind reality; this could be anything between a 50 and 300 rpm difference depending on your acceleration rate and gear.

If the funds are available just get it all done at the same time.... Have 1 tune for all out power and then a 2nd tune to run on 95RON fuel @ about 250rwkw.... That way there is no fuss about it.......

Actually, his hi power tune is pure edit from what I last heard, the exed simly takes out some boost for his low map, and the PCM adjusts the fuel ratio to be exactly the same with respect to the lower boost.... That was my understanding...

Why would you bother with the unichip? Go get a Nizpro stage 2 kit instead, you'll end up with a faster car...

I personally like that graph better than most tunes I see going around today. You seriously know how to produce damn sexy results man, seriously... A flat torque curve has a certain feel to it that nothing else can give you... If it were my car (and I wish it were =/ ), I would get injectors and a big intercooler done as well. With that sorted I would ask for 10 PSI untill about 5250rpm... Starting at 2000rpm (meh, why not with a bit of cam tickling?) Basically the same curve you see there, but starts earlier, stays higher all the way, but that flat torque line keeps on going without dropping off untill after 5500rpm... I'd also have the limiter at 6500 . Gives the car that 'relentless acceleration' feel. Nothing feels the same, nothing..... It should be illegal to have perfectly flat torque curves that cover more than 4000rpm, they are just too good.

I cannot stand it when others are in the wrong and then abuse you.... In your case (depending on his size, lol, not as fit as I used to be) I'd get out and give him what for up close, let him know exactly what he did wrong and rather than just abuse him, ask the question "So tell me what the lane changing rules are mate? Do you look in your mirror? Did you know that you need to keep left unless overtaking?" etc etc, make him realise what he had done.... If he got agro, a swift jab to the side of the cheek sorts em out....

Not only do you have a power advantage, you have a torque 'spread' advantage, a weight advantage and a traction advantage.... He has a heavy front end, soft suspension, less power, peaky torque and a fat arse.... The v8 ghia is over a second slower down the quarter......

With springs I reckon he would easy get you another 20kw and flatten the torque curve out a bit more too...... [EDIT] He already said that.....

You sure there's enough to wave ← Haha, Harry Potter (whome I loathe) and his magical Wang rip off comes to mind....

Yeah, under max load the 1-2,2-3 and 3-4 increases the rev limit by 200 - 250rpm so you get absolute max acceleration from each gear. Regardless, the actual rev limiter, when it is not in this transient state, is 6000rpm. I'd say its fairly safe to run with that.

To get the same numbers Ford get, I have to use just over 6100rpm... Or use perfect tyre circumferenses... Which, with my little spreadsheet, means a tyre pressure just over 55psi... So I dunno if Ford actually tested it or just punched in the numbers like me. [EDIT] Not that it really matters though... Was just pointing it out because.... Well I don't know why actually....

For the ZF 6 speed auto, 2.73 diff, 245/45/18 @ 40PSI with 100% tread left, I came up with this... 63.52 113.20 174.26 232.35 304.46 383.88 [edit] At 6000rpm.

You guys MUST keep a very open eye out and you need to actively (if possible) have a look around the local tuning shops and warehouses for any clues as to where the stuff could be. With enough man power I'm sure the melbournian forum members could at the very least cripple those responsible (cut there knee caps out, or something similar) and return some, if not all, of the goods... Many hands make lighter work. I'll keep my ear to the ground up here in sydney as well, just incase they had the idea to go for a road trip... Gaarrrhhh this pisses me off.

I think 270 is more than achievable.

Refs used to try and regain controll.... But ended up on the ground... Then, because some of these refs just had enough (and allot of them are not only ex hock players, but also boxers and footy players), they started to find more players being injured than before.... I've seen revs go harder than any of those fights.. Much harder. I prefer it infact when the ref has had enough and gets in there, because they normally win and that is clearly more entertaining...