Lawsy

You're cruisin for a bruisin if you keep that up mate ! Grown ups... Pah. You wish [EDIT] Oh and btw, PTFE is not a friction modifier. PTFE is dispersed as solid particles through a solution. They do not disolve, they do not modify the friction of the oil as such, but more so the surfaces the oil is in contact with. There is a massive difference between the two and I couldn't even begin to try and explain it. Nulon just happened to figure out what sizes would be required for different applications and how to get the particles to properly suspend in a solution (with other sealing and desirable lubricating properties) and then the solution to mix through the oil. The detergents, even in the most expensive oil you can find, are pathetic in comparison. I don't care if caltex engineered a product with mitsubishi... The chemical breakdown will show that this so called 'engineered product' is basically the same as the normal product every other car uses; simply mass produced (with its slight difference) and guaranteed to sell, nothing more. Ford did the same thing, they uses a different seal material in there power steering and so you have to buy the power steering fluid that has an AU falcon xr6 on the front of it... If you use anything else, seal life is slightly reduced... Not much of a big deal when you consider that we are talking in single percentage terms. Ok just read the sheets, I'm glad I found them, read read!!@!%!%

These forums need a certain function before you can post, like a quiz, it should start like this. How much sleep did you get last night? 1, 2, 5 minutes, 1 hour, 2 etc.... Can you add 3 and 5? If you anser poorly to both it stops you from posting as a restraint from midnight retard 'I wanna post crap' urges. Like I had the other night (sigh), see what working 60 hours does? :( My appologies. Ok now that it isn't midnight and I've had more than 5 minutes of sleep, I'll try and actually get the point I wanted to make... Ok basically, if you have any idea about physics, you'll know what PTFE is (Polytetrafluoroethylene, say it 5 times real fast). Now there are a couple of very interesting properties that no other substance has, especially for lubricating purposes... 2 easy ones. Firstly, it has the lowest friction of any substance. This should be self explanatory. Secondly, it is basically inert. This should also be self explanatory. Now the rest are much more interesting. If you were refine PTFE into spherical particles less than a a few hundredths of a micro, it will embed itself (under heat and pressure) into the grain boundries of the material. Funny enough, it must be a smooth metalic material for this to work (that's why it has no real effect on porous clutch or band materials, this is important). Lowest friction, inert, and a micron layer of it in your cylinder walls. Not only that, any other crap that may have somehow been small enough to get into these grain boundries, it will remove them... How handy (think piston rings). While you're thinking of piston rings, think of the answer to this question. Do you want your rings to move freely in there groves or does 'bedded in' mean they hardly move at all? The answer is you want them to move as freely as possible. Being bedded in simply means they have been moulded to the shape of the grooves and cylinder walls. Otherwise you want them moving as freely as they possible can, as this way when the correct pressures are applied, they will give a good seal and a great oil scrape affect. Two things which are really important. And expensive? I'm a poor student, but around 10 bucks every 5000 km's isn't exactly breaking the bank now is it. Or if you spend the 40 on the long term, you spread that out over at least 50,000ks, possibly 80,000... You work it out. [EDIT] Oh snap, I just found this (why didn't I google it earlier? ><). These are some fact sheets and reports. Ok you guys won't have access to some of the other tests that distributors get (they are hardcopy only I think), but they are just repeats of the same anyway; so check all of these fact sheets out. If you are interested in anything mechanical, they are a great read, even if you hate nulon, they are a good read regardless. So ignore everything I've just typed and just read these. As it seems it explains everything I was trying to explain anyway, and heaps more. Good good :D Go here http://www.nulon.com.au/factSheets.php Have fun, and again, I'll try not to post crap at 1am after 10 hours of work and no sleep....

Hey guys, its been a while. As alot of you old schoolers know, I'm doing engineering and I used to bring as much engineering help as I could... Well, I thought I would pick that back up again for a post. This is about Nulon products, specifically, there PTFE (highly refined version for teflon [teflon is simply a trademark, not a substance]) based engine treatments. No, I don't work for Nulon, but SuperCheap Auto, we stock Nulon but otherwise have nothing to do with them, I gain nothing from posting this other than a feel good sense of trying to help... OK Today there are a lot of products and additives on the market, and most of them suck and do nothing for your engine; based on funny ratio's of common oils/detergants/friction modifiers or thickeners. Most of them are a waste of money. But there happens to be a few products that XR6T drivers really should be taking a look at, as they can save you a lot of hassles later down the track, especially if you're running a lot of power. One such product is the long term engine treatment (E30). PTFE happens to be one of those awesome freaks of nature type substances that has all the properties for a specific application that you want. Having the lowest friction value of anything in the universe is handy, being inert and not combustable is very handy also. I think you can see where this is going, so just buy it, put it in your car and forget its even there until you change your oil next. Second product, performance treatment (E20, probably the best per oil change additive on the market), and an odd way of using up a bottle of it without opening your oil cap... Now I'm sure some of you have heard of upper cylinder lubes before, but how many of them actually work? I know a couple that do, the moreys one seems ok, has the right physics behind it, but has no real lasting effect. As soon as you use that tank of fuel up, the effect is pretty much gone. They do improve economy and can increase power, but not by alot. They do significantly reduce wear though, which is a very good thing. Well, here is a another reason you should use an upper cylinder lube, without actualy using an upper cylinder lube... To remove carbon deposits in your piston rings. Yep, sounds odd, but is oh so very common. If your 6T is using a bit of oil (more so than it should) one possible cause is clogged up rings or glazed cylinder bores, due to being run in too soft/hard, but assuming the rings are still in ok condition. An easy way to solve this is to find a spare vacuum port on your intake manifold (preferably the smallest one you can find that is closest to the throttle) and attack it with a small bit of hose; then stick a tiny funnel in the hose... I'm sure you can see where this is going. Get a brick, and get your engine turning at around 1600-2000 (the vacuum port you have open should be small enough to allow the car to run without much hassle. If this isn't the case, pick a smaller port or kink the hose slightly to restrict the flow, without blocking it). Now it should take you around 20 - 30 minutes to extremely slowly drizzle the treatment down the funnel (only 300ml, so yes very slowly), and the vacuum should draw it through. This should have an immediate affect. This can quickly remove carbone and turd from your piston rings, as well as lube the valves, soften seals and help rings to sit properly. Oh, and you'll blow massive plooms of smoke for around 2km's when you next go for a drive around the block, which is always great fun for the people who live next door. Now I have to be honest with you... The point of this post was to put me to sleep as I couldn't turn my brain off. It seems to have worked since I can barely keep my eyes open. BUY NULON OR DIE. Ok, no I'm not serious, I don't want you to die, but they do make good stuff and they actually use real deal physics and chemical engineers to help improve their products, which is pretty much why they are the only brand I can recommend to customers and have a clear conscience that I've done the right thing. So there. Take care guys, I hope some of my long, random, and mostly useless dribble has helped someone. Cheers Tim

Brian, your build up has been one of the most interesting things I've followed on this forum, and is the first thing I check when I'm just lurking every few weeks. You're a great guy, a great driver and you sure know how to build a quick car mate; I'm sure if you decide to transplant the go fast bits that it will be bigger, better and safer than before. And like others have already stated, the absolute most important thing is that you and your nephews walked away. Be blessed mate, and if you do decide to go ahead with the transplant then I hope to see the new project soon. Tim

Can someone upload the last video to youtube?

that's the average speed

Just curious, would the XR8 lower intake work with the Fairmont Ghia front end? Or does the different bumper and headlamp assembly change things? And if anyone is selling a 2nd hand typhoon or xr6turbo exhaust let me know, SMS me on 0400 485 760. Cheers -Tim

Turning an alternator under load at 1rpm is hardwork... The load has an electromagnetic and mechanical advantage on you. If you want to make the same power using as little torque as possible, all frictional and heat losses aside, you would want to turn the thing at at a much larger speed, since torque required will be reduced... This is similar with all accessory functions. They require a certain power to opperate, not a certain torque. If you balance the equation, it simply means that for the same power, as RPM increases torque decreases. In practical terms, it requires more torque to turn the alternator at idle (probably 25Nm's or so) than at 6000rpm (probably like 10Nm's. It would be less if the ignition (spark) load wasn't greater at higher RPM). This is why there is a much greater increase in torque at lower RPMs. Its good stuff, I love these sort of simple, practical and just so usefull modifications... The physics is nice and simple, the gains are real and do not require 6000 rpm to be felt. Infact, the largest gain is at the lowest possible load point, tappering off as RPM rises. Most usefull increase you can get! Awesome stuff :D

They're German?

He's right you know.... Find an xr6t with high K's, BA mk1, you'll pick it up cheap as and then put stock lights and remove the body kit.... Done.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, from this I think we pretty much know what is gonna happen now, solving the 3 biggest issues. Breathing in, breathing out and tuning. We're gonna ring around a bit more as well, but I'll give spiro a buz and see if he'll cut my brother a great deal on a full (head to tip) exhaust and tune, and if he has his own kit for cheap, a CAI also... that's basically all it will need and it should run quite nicely! Thanks for the info.

Oh, its a 6..... My bad... Totaly forgot that you could get the ghia in an 8. <---- Idiot.

Hey guys, its been a while. My brother is taking the lease off my old man for our Ghia, and finally the Ghia is going to get a bit of love. Well, basically this is what my brother and myself discussed over lunch for some basic mods, that if anything will improve fuel economy greatly (I know the ghia has run very rich from factory, economy is really bad and I can tell you I've tried driving it so slowly it was painful, economy was still only average) and give him a bit more stick. So we were thinking, in this order; Cold air Exhaust Edit. As for the exhaust, we're not sure where a good place to get one would be, since it has to be quiet and fit behind the rear guard (its hidden). He is thinking of changing the CAT as well since this is also a restriction. I say again, the car must not be loud, it must be well muffled. Obviously louder than stock but barely. So if anyone could suggest something suitable or somewhere suitable, it would be great. And for cold air, whats most cost effective option? I had a look earlier on and I'm not sure how easily the bunnings 60 dollar CIA job would work since the shroud for the radiator seems to be more obtrusive than I've previously seen. Or am I dreaming? For the NA I'm not sure how different it is to the Turbo, so if anyone has pictures of how to best locate and install one it would be great (since the forum has changed around I can't find any of the old threads ) Anyways, any help or input would be great, we're in sydney and so the custom tune would have to be done here, but the exhaust can be done anywhere, we'll fit it ourselves so we'll just get it shipped. Thanks guys! PS, Stainless mandrel bent is a requirement also, cheers.

I had to work all day.... I still haven't seen even 1 bit of footage from the entire race. So you can all go and drown, lucky sods...... While I was at work though, my brother just sent me this message. "The drought has ended!" That was enough for me, I was smiling ear to ear for the rest of the day. Go C.L, you good thing!

Chop the wing and lower it another inch....

How easy a car is to live with on a daily basis should be what you base your decision on. So lets take Motors comments, in context, and see where that leaves you. "The ergonomics are beaut and that's one department where the Fords give the Holdens a thumping. Frankly, ergonomics are one area where the VE doesn't seem much of an advance at all.. The power window switches in the centre console are in the wrong place and the temperature controls on the allegedly superior system of the Bogan special are confusing. And we're still not sure about the black headlining, feels kind of enclosed to us." Then the fuel consumption figures. "The increasingly important question of fuel economy threw up some suprises, although there were no prizes for guessing that the six cylinder Falcon was going to be up the pointy end of making the most of every litre. Even so, the Turbo's 10.8L/100km is a pretty damn good result and well ahead of anything else on test." Now ergonomics, to a degree, are somwhat of a subjective matter, yet ergonomics still has a basic formula that most agree on. that's always been the most annoying thing in any Late model camira I've ever driven, or had to be a passenger in. Something just isn't right, and I find myself needing to drink water every 15 minutes to quell the thirst build up that I seem to aquire from holding down the niggling frustration. Rather that, then take it out on someone. It almost appears like they thought of everything, where switches should be, what would feel smooth or look nice, then either did the opposite thing, or moved it 15 degree's off target. that's the best description, the interiors just aren't on target. This, and the fact that almost every motoring journalist agree's with me, would probably be the biggest point on buying the Falcon. Just flick the blinker switches, turn the volume controls, heater controls or feel the door handles. Turn the whiper stalk, open the center console and feel how flimsy, inaccurate or vague they are. These are the things we do nearly every time we drive the car, depending on the weather. My 92 astina has a more possitive, "its not going to fall off in my hand", feel to its switchgear than any of the commodores I've had to drive (especially the VY company car I had, argh... That was a painful 6 months of motoring)). And I am not exagerating. When I want to change lanes, I know that the blinker isn't going to fully lock, because there is a definate spring action and switching point in both directions, and there is no play in it. This is such a simple example, yet is perfect to demonstrate the point. Our Ghia's blinker, or post BA falcons in general, is obviously further down the quality line than my Astina. The stalk is solid, and hard to move in the wrong direction. It does what it is told with a positive, solid feeling and flicks back with a sharp, accurate movement. The switches feel the same today (110,000km's and nearly 4 years) than they did brand new. Now that's goto count for something. "Things should be... Where they should be." The Falcons cruise is another example; it just shouldn't be done any other way. And finally, the fact that the very week you get an XR6T, you could have someone use the Edit to tune it up for you. The outcome would be a car that is basically better in every way over any stock Commodore (well duh), or lets put it this way, any new Late model camira that costs the same ammount (xr6t + custom tune). We had a fairly long post about this a few months back; no one found anything that could provide better bang for your bucks (including safety, drivability, looks, ride quality and practicallity), then an Edited XR6T with a towbar. It basically does everything, even the washing up, and mowing of the lawn.

OK, I should have been more specific, no one in Australia can cast it.... If you made a solid solution from beryllium, silicon and aluminium, you'd have the ultimate block. Its thermal conductivity would be off the charts, the aluminium/silicon would make the right hardness, weight would obviously be awesome anyway.... Only good things..... Many good things. This has got me interested in beryllium and its uses now... And away I go to research

Now now, be realistic wont you..... Sidium filled, pfft. Lets save 50 grams, joy. Beryllium, pfft. What, you making explosives? Rocket ship nozzles or something? I don't think you can cast it either, the melting point is too high.... The rest is like, maybe a 5kg saving in total, so who cares. You just took it too far dude...... mwhaha My nanopaint is more effective

To summerise. that's basically it. If you bothered to actually read even the first 5 lines you would have understood what was going on.... You spastic. (much love).

Take the entire car appart, down to a rolling chassis. Goto the local Material engineer (there is one next to most Coles/Woolies) and get him to forge up a hollow Aluminium alloy space frame to replace the steel chassis. It will be roughly 40% lighter and about 20% stronger (so you've just increased the torsional stiffness also; read: Better handling). Start putting the car back together. Use shorty carbon titanium locking bolts/nuts, instead of steel bolts, for all joints. They are 75% lighter (that's a big one). that's goto be like 100kg's right there..... They use them on spaceships (NASA sell them cheap if you buy in bulk). Have the engine block, a silicon aluminium blend, pressure die cast around special titanium alloy cylinder liners (which have less friction (~10 - 30% less. Smaller atoms = tigher atomic pack (in HCP, to be specific) = smoother surface) for less wear, higher RPM limits and more power (obviously). Lighter rods and all that crap are boring, but you do that anyway... This saves 25% of the engine weight. Moving along, you don't need that big flywheel to get the same effect. Get someone to make a lighter one, that carries 90% of its weight > 75% diameter. Change the gearbox to some boring magnesium (no titanium, boo) special. Keep all the same mechanical part dimensions, just replace all parts with stronger, lighter (so you need less, therefore it must be cheaper too!) carbon shot specials.... Do the same for driveshafts (Some strange thing, bil... billet? Yeah that's the one... I dunno, its boring cheap stuff, everyones got them)... All this makes the driveline around 25% lighter (you have to use a bit of steel still, so you don't get all the best savings here.... boooo). Titanium exhaust (like 0.5mm wall thickness, something stupidly thin), like they said, saves like 40kgs... Make all the panels out of carbon fiber, paint them as normal with ultra thin nano paint (place it on 1 atom at a time.... It doesn't take that long, really, you only need 15 atomic layers to close all the gaps, its not that many atoms. Plus if you start now you'll be done before the Orion project is running out of stock).... Supprisingly, this saves around 5kgs (paint is heavier than water, you use like 6L of paint on the car I guess...), now you only use 800ml! Thast goto be cheaper too since you're using less! Place these pannels over the space frame doors, rest of the car.... Stuff. Then do all the boring things.... Then add everything on as normal (you would have to change the suspension though, since the car will now sit about 2 inches higher). If you did that (wont cost you much, let me know how it turns out when you do it), you'll save around 400kgs of dry weight, still with all the luxuries! Brilliant! Now get to it. That should do the trick, hopefully it helps you decide what to do. /me is at uni and very bored.....

Any suggestions??? ← Talk to Simon at nizpro. You'll find that all the logistics of moving the battery around have been done for you; you just need to pay the bill. Anyways, it appears that what you need to do is this: Budget yourself around six or seven grand. Spend some of that on the springs, a little in the audio department and then go and talk to nizpro or hpf after that. From there, you'll want to go with one of there cheaper kits and option up the intake plenum. After that, get the center muffler replaced with a higher flowing one. When I say higher flowing one, I'm not suggesting that you're going to get any significant power increase; the higher flow is simply required, or a by product of (depending on how you look at it), the louder note coming out the other end (a bit more personality, per say, but not intrusive). Once that's all done, stick the rest of the cash (assuming you have a bit left, you should have) into a holding account and make the name of the account "fuel and tyres", because they are going to be your biggest expenses from that point on..... Don't get me wrong, it's not that you wont have a more economical car (it will probably be quite better than standard), it's just that you'll never be using less than, oh lets see.... 95% throttle at any point in time; you'll never see the economical benefits............

I'm just itching to read more and more detailed explanations, watch more video's and look at more pics concerning this build... I've been following it since its conceptoin, and its still one of the first threads I take a look at whenever I visit the forums.... If its making me itch, I can't imagine how you must feel, Brian. This must be torture! The micro second you get an opportunity to take more video's of this weapon, Brian, don't hesitate post them!

I'd like someone to post the actual figures (for the not so bright, *cough* G.......*cough* this means numbers from the datasheet) of how many of these so called 'load points' there are in the EMS and then someone to do the same for the factory computer, I think you'll be supprised. I'm not going to tell you which way either

A set of valve springs and injectors (just to be sure) will sort out that top end quick smart, once finances allow... Installing those would allow you to basically leave everything as is, but from 4500 - 6000 rpm increase the boost a tiny bit and see another 25kw gain... That would definately get rid of the whole, "Oh, its running out of puff" feeling you get at the top end, even though you have another number to pass on the tacho... This feeling is even more pronounced because wog has produced, yet again, five billion newtons from about three RPM...

If I was in his situation, I'd definately be running the 17's. If he struggles to break traction with the 19s on, then the 17's on a prepared track will provide even more grip than his 19's. I'd say this would be ideal, since it doesn't matter if he tears them to bits and he'll probably get just enough slip to prevent the thing from bogging down. From what I've read on here and other places, with street tyres the pressure has only a slight effect on traction, but the best results are usually found while using 6-12 psi under the recommendation on the plaque (inside the door). So, if it says you should be using 32, then I'd be inclined to run 20-24, just depends on your preference... Some guys go lower, but there really isn't any point... You're only going to notice a slight difference; don't try taking any corners at speed while the pressure is down.... [EDIT] Just take both tyres with you, if the 17's suck royally, then stick the 19's on. If you do happen to use the 19's though, then I suggest lowering the pressure much more than 8psi under... Just to be safe. But if geea or someone see's this thread, they should definately have much more accurate figures for you, since they know first hand what the right thing to do is. [/EDIT]