Lawsy

Guys, don't get me wrong. I don't pity these idiots on the street throwing rocks at the police. No way, give them everything they deserve. Like I have been saying, bean bag rounds are a very effective solution in this instance. But my point is this, I do feel for the families who lost there children. I have lost family members, my life long best mate and some of our best family friends. You don't wish this upon your worst enemy. But you can't say to the ones who died "serves you/them right". It doesn't. The sad thing is that they obviously haven't learnt their lesson. These riots are proof of that. So again I say, for the way they get treated and the way the police are dealing with them, its their own fault. And I applaud the cops for their efforts, they are doing the right thing, even if they are being a little soft. These people have no one to blame but themselves and the driver of this crash is a heartless coward. He will feel the pain, knowing he has killed his 2 best mates and that it was his own fault, for the rest of his life. I just hope they catch him and let him feel this pain in a confined space so he can't hurt anyone else. What anoys me further is that there are families out there, who live in 'nicer' suburbs who live in houses worth less, with less rooms, fewer appliances and young children, and they are as happy as larry. Why? They are greatfull for what they have. They have earnt all they own. The people in these rioting streets have earnt nothing. Its houseing commission, its all handout based. Most of the income goes into drugs and alcohol, I've seen it. I'm sure many others have as well. I just don't know what the answer is, nor do I see a change in attitude in the near future, and that's pretty sad.

Love your work mate, great effort. Question What front end do you have on this setup? I would assume some high quality splits? I'm interested in what power your putting through them and with what amp.... Thanks mate!! Keep up the good work. [edit] I saw a boat on the hawksbury about a year or so back, this guy had massive subs + some 6 x 9's and splits. Huge amounts of doof from this boat, huge amounts.........

Nothing but the best Was the fourth time I've used it on the car Thanks everyone, makes the 9 hours seem worth it and then some As long as some greasy knob doesn't come and put his hands all over her, she should look good for a few weeks or so, assuming it doesn't get wet.

333?

My advice to you is to hold out on buying the steering wheel for now. Wait a while and make your decision based apon what car enthusiast reviewers say. Say wheels and motor, or even a high profile driver (so long as they have no connections with the company selling the wheel). There are lots of wheels out there, and lots of them are crap. Very few deliver on peformance or ergonomics. But the few that do provide both don't just accomplish, they excel.

I feel for you plonky. Appart from the general whinge we have about what the highway patrol do when we are breaking the law, I feel that the coppers are the ones getting the rought end of the stick. You guys have no power to actually put an end to a chase before it gets out of hand. I mean, heres an example. You engage in a high speed chase in an area that you know well. You know that there is a right hander coming up with a paddock on the outside. There are no trees or anything substantial that can be hit or driven into. Around this bend, say about 100m off, there happens to be a child care center where the playground is in the front of the building and not the back. Yes, its fenced off to humans, but not to a 1.8 tonne lump travelling at 150 clicks. Do you see where this could have been stopped? The right hander. In this example the officer could have spun the car out into the paddock and cornered him in. So I guess my point is this; it shouldn't be totaly out of the question to sue the cops if they genuinly do something wrong, but the courts must have some form of legislation where, if you are clearly the instigator of a chase which leads to your own harm then you are the moron who put youself in a place to get hurt. You are responsible.... Its the same with the break & enter law. Obviously if you were to shoot someone with a 12 guage as they broke into your house then you took it a bit over the top. But say someone illegaly enters your house weilding a knife and seem capable of using it, soon after resulting in you taking there knee's out with a baseball bat, then they should be held responsible. If they didn't enter, they wouldn't have been slammed. Simple. Meh, yeah this particular topic gets me a little fired up...

Natural selection, darwanism, its all crap. There are lots of rich idiots as well, and they just keep making more money. It wasn't the kids fault they were braught up in poverty, always being told how they "deserved more" or "worth nothing" or continually shown on TV how all the rich prats live; they think this is reality for everyone else but themselves, when really this is only 5%. It isn't there fault how they were braught up, they didn't choose to be born, but it is still there choice whether to do the right thing or not. Herein lies the problem, by the time they are old enough to make this choice, they have been brainwashed by poverty and oppression, to the point where they can't see a choice, and react instead of act. Another problem is, it gets worse as time goes on. The next generation from these families will have yet another story to tell about how they were treated. Always focussing on the negative, instead of focussing on a solution. Its a shame 2 people have died, and I feel for their families. NEVER is death an answer, never. Even with the death penalty in the US, I don't agree we should have the power to say who lives and who dies. Leave playing God to himself, who hear thinks they could judge every case? Who here thinks they could possibly choose who lives or dies? No one. So even the driver of this chase doesn't deserve to die. Be put in a dark whole and the key thrown away, yes, but not death. That said, shotguns with bean bag rounds are still the go. Getting hit by something that feels like being punched by MT will do the trick 9 times out of 10. Like I said earlier, the 1/10 that it doesn't work, aim higher, shoot again. But don't try and play god.

Well I think I figured it out, I took off the plastic stearing column sheilding (about 3 screws) and gave it a bit of a turn to see. I from there it was evident where the smell was coming from (I dunno if I mentioned a smell earlier, but meh) and then smelt the ignition switch, and sure enough, that typical electrical burn smell was as strong as anything and fresh. So, off to the wreckers tomorrow for a 30 dollar ignition switch and the problem should be solved. When testing, it got to the point where I never had to turn the key into the start position. Simply the 'on' position was enough for the starter to kick in. btw, the starter turns over first time every time. Even after being revved probably 10 times over what it is rated at, it still works 100% of the time. Soon as I fix the switch, all will be good again, hopefully.

These kids are seriously retarded..... Those bean bag rounds that can be fired out of a 12 guage would have come in handy. Even if they hit you in the temple, theres only a 30% chance of death. If it hits you anywhere else, you will survive 99.9% of the time. If shot within 50 meters of the your target, it will put them on there arse, if it doesn't, you aim higher and shoot them again.

Yeah, get all of 4 grand for it, somehow get the bank to give a uni student, earning barely enough to pay the current loan, a loan for and extra 40 grand so I can buy a T.... If it isn't helpfull, don't post please. But if you think its even slightly helpfull, post away.

Ok, on my car (the astina, not our ghia, I don't drive the ghia much anymore) for some reason the starter motor won't disengage properly. Heres what happened. Other day, went to bunnings to get some gear, got back in the car, started the thing up and it made this aweful noise, much worse than the noise you get from from trying to start a car with the motor running, allot harsher, so it seemed... So I turned it off, started it again, same thing. 3rd time lucky, it stopped trying to engage and I drove off. It did this once or twice more on other trips since. Then today when I wanted to get to work (a shift which I really needed), it would engage every 50 meters, having to turn the engine off, clutch start each time to get the thing to stop engaging the starter. After about half a k of this, I turned it around and came back home. On the last stretch, I would turn it off, put the key back into the 'on' position to re clutch it, and the starter motor would engage before I had a chance, as if I had turned the key all the way around. So I had a quick fiddle with the key position, and it seemed as though the 'on' position was getting slightly confused with the start position. The problem was, when the thing was actually trying to engage, to stop it meant the key position was borderline on the accessories position, and so it would turn off anyway, back on, off etc.... This isn't fun. Anyways, I have some warrantee on the car that covers starter motors etc, but I was wondering if it could simply be something stupid, like the key position. Or whether it is a relay near the starter motor that is confusing the electronics or something similar. Or it could simply be that the starter has had it and isn't responding correctly to what its being told..... Any auto electricians help would be much appreciated.

We should call you a maid

But ona PC, you have a processor that can do 30 times more calculations for physics, computer AI etc than in a PS2. So not only would you get better AI and physics in a pc based game, but you would get this with 30 cars on the track..... I would love to see someone do a proper port of GT4 to the PC. Get a nice big, high resolution projector, run 12 cars on the track with even better physics and graphics, with a nice racing wheel.... That would be quite fun.

Hrm..... Lots of wires sticking out? that's either the repair job of the loom from the piggy back, or some stand alone is being put in. If the former, then hes getting an edit.

Holy crap that is shiny... wd. Looks the goods.

here we go, just liked every other GT topic... The good old no car damage comments etc etc Im just saying I cant look past the no damage thing. Every car game that doesnt feature car damage totally takes away from the experience that's all. If this game is meant to be so realistic where the F is the damage. Why the F do you keep repeating yourself everytime a GT topic is posted. Stop hijacking threads with you problems and stick to posting in the other ones you already screwed up! Are you for real. get over it man! I was just saying what I thought about part of the game so how is this hijacking!! I didn't go off topic did I??? Im sorry not everyone has the same opinion as you. I had a big post here but then realised all I need to say is this. If you are that crap that you can't complete a single race without riding another car or hitting a wall, go play mario karts. That basically sums it up, the rest was simply on the fact that GT uses SO non linear differential equations for each wheel and its damper system, that GT takes into account the possition (also height) and weight of the engine, the center of gravity for each car, various friction constants and many many other factors. It isn't an engine based on triggers, it is is a real time physics engine. GT is about the only car game with a non trigger based physics engine. Trigger being, something happens, the game simply reacts in a pre determined way, rather than calculating what actually happened. that's about a quarter of what I had typed up.

That is brilliant, so how does it sound? Any vibration or anoying noises from the boot when the sub hits hard?

Chris if your looking for a really quick car for the'' twisties'' than you be hard pressed to find a better car than the 350 Z, the handling and braking of the Z track model is just superb, just add a Twin Turbo system then you'll have all of your wants/needs covered. Peter Couldn't agree with you more there Peter. A friend of mine traded his sti for a 350Z. I've driven both and would have to say that the 350 is one of the best handling rear wheel drive cars I've ever been behind the wheel of. I always thought you couldn't come close to the handling of an all wheel drive sti but the 350 does. Definately needs the TT set up though. No doubt the 350Z has awesome handling and braking, then add another 120 RWkW's (courtesy of the APS intercooled Twwin Turbo system) and this 350Z is a real weapon, not quite a twin turbo Porsche though still an awesome amount of fun for the dollars invested. Peter Peter Peter, NOTHING compares to a TT Porsche...nothing... Dave. TT Gallardo..... No, I have not heard of one, but hey, it would still be better

Looks great in the blue, too. Well done! Love your work!

The head looks like Rob herrod

Please :D

Ooer, any more pics? Open it up, show is everything you've done since the first pics!

Yeah, I've heard of a few hipo cars running this box as well, but most of the really quick guys have custom ratios with much tougher internals. It takes well over 1000hp to push 1.7tonnes into the 9's. It would really supprise me if this box could handle that unmodified.

It does seem fairly sound to say that the driveline loss is close to constant if weight was the only issue, but with extra power comes extra frictional forces and therefore extra heat. So for a 240fwkw falcon, producing 185 ish at the wheels, this might actually be "240kw - 6% (friction, heat + moving the oil around) - 40kw (weight of the components)"..... This isn't accurate, I pulled these numbers from my ass, its just a hypothetical example of what it could be. In my mind it wouldn't be a constant figure, it can't be. If you apply more force to any contacting surfaces then more friction is going to be apparent, and in turn so is heat. Energy doesn't come free, so power must have been lost to create this extra heat. But through all this, the weight of the gearbox doesn't change, and there is no way that 20% of the power is being sucked up by friction and heat alone. Think about it. Lets say in a low friction system that you have a massive 1 tonne inertial wheel (like one of those massive balance wheels on some old deisels, big ass flywheel) connected to an engine with say 500hp measured after the wheel. If you then measure it from the output shaft of the engine, you mght find this thing happens to have 600hp (yes, I know its probably not right, but shush, im getting somewhere!). So the extra mass of the wheel sucked up about 100hp. Put a 1000hp engine now on the same wheel, and measure the loss. You'll probably find its close to 900hp measured after the wheel. So from having to turn the mass, 100hp was lost. Now in a manual box, the mass doesn't change just because you increase the hp. Only the friction changes. So from the weight of the gearbox alone, there should be a close to constant loss in turning the components. The rest, friction and heat. You could possibly find out what the powerloss due to heat is. Friction directly converts work/power to heat, agree? Get a stock T. Get the gearbox temp to a normal running temperature, measure it. Do a power run and hold the engine at peak power for a minute. Measure the temp and the power. Gain 100kw at the flywheel (wouldn't you love it to be that easy?). Repeat, get the normal temp exactly the same, pull the run, hold for a minute, measure temp. I guarantee you that the temp of the box will be higher, significantly higher. You could measure roller bearing temp, tyre temp and everything. Convert all this data gathered to BTU's or Joules, do a few simultainious differential equations and you can directly convert this to how many KW you lost. If done correctly, with the uttmost care for accuracy and control of the variables, this should infact give you very close to to a real figure..... But hey, I just enjoyed thinking about it in my otherwise boring day (I'm injured and can't move, going to watch movies and read for the rest of the day). I just hope someone out there could learn something, or maybe even correct me as I just may be completely full of crap and forgotten everything from first year.... In either case, have a good one!

Macka, get dw to stick on the trans cooler for one, do that ASAP. Second, spend the 1500 or so on getting the better quality bands and clutchpacks. Sure, the edit might give you a few more kw and change some other thigns for you, but I believe that you already have the power you want and that spending anymore money in the performance department is a waste. So unless you really wanted to up the boost further, get rid of the torque reduction, etc etc, then go the edit AS WELL as the upgrade, but in my opinion I think you only need the cooler + auto upgrade. Just do it! You know you want to!