Lawsy

lol

Take a movie of it with the wastegate pipe disconnected I reckon it would sound huge!

Any news, diagnosis?

Seems like fairly good milage for such a soft tyre! How much were the SO3s and how do they rate against the SO2's? Also, the tyres on the back of the enzo and most lamboghini's are fairly awesome for a road tyre as well..... Love to know the price though. Someone needs to make the following modification work, without hasles, without drivability concerns and without destroying anything. Mild flare of the rear guards (2cm should do it, would probably look wicked as well) Find someone to make up a new hub and some new, longer/stronger studs. Either have the hub made up to have the face purtrude another 2cm or find a 2cm spacer. Fit 305's/315's onto your car.... If this is possible, and if someone knows how to modify or strengthen some of the rear end components to cope with the tosional load, then you could have a feasable solution to finding a tenth or two off your 60ft time. In total that's 60 - 80mm more surface area on the road, or 11 - 14% more grip.... Grip is directly proportional to the friction co efficient of the tyre multiplied by the contact area. I'm sure you would feel the difference. Is this feasable? I know spacers are considered the most evil thing for a road car, but if the strength is there, it just might be possible without annihilating anything....

Herrod 19's = win.

All 3. In the reply screen, go down to below the smilies and it says 'file attachments'. You simply press browse, find the file on your computer, and then 'add this attachment'. Do this several times to add all your pictures to the one post, before pressing 'add reply'.

It isn't a photoshop, it is just sad.

Ta for keeping us posted mate, I'm fairly sure we are all waiting on the diagnosis!

From what I heard, and from a theoretical standpoint, if you could do a tube and fin right (this costs an insane amount of money to do right apparently) it should be the most efficient of the 2 designs. In theory, is should be much more efficient at dispersing heat, giving greater surface area and better inside and outside flow characteristics..... Its just allot more expensive to get right as there is allot more micromanagement........ Don't shoot the messenger......

Might as well get the edit while you're there :S

Congrats! ...... In that clip, the 3rd car not only sounds the best, but I heard the tyres have a bit of a whinge when the driver gave it a tickle (or hit the center line under power, either way), good to see

Sounds good m8 Theres an idea. If you buy him enough beers, you have to drive him home! Just make sure he brings rumble with him, and goto the pub furthest away from his house.

Best bang for your bucks mods around so far seem to be eugines injectors, an edit and a custom tune by nizpro or herrod. Being in sydney the custom tune could be hard to come by, but I think someone said there is a respectable tuner in Castle Hill (I think off Victoria Ave?) that could give you what you're after....

Good to hear.

Where abouts do you live? I think I saw you driving down windsor road in the last few days (or was it near eastern creek? Can't remember).

For the money you could have saved you could have simply upgraded the Gearbox in the T and then rip out 300, 000 odd tyre frying watts. It would be twice as fast and probably would have sounded better too.....

Interesting thoughts there DW...... Very sly, Cpt. Obvious

Ta JB, that helped as there are about a billion actuators on a car, I had no chance of knowing which one! Now I know [edit] Didn't read post.... Blah.... My original post/thoughts were that the ECU as a processor (number cruncher) wasn't quick enough to handle a slightly weak boost actuator.... Then realised JB posted that it can, but just requires a little bit of tweaking (ie, the table from the US they are waiting on)... My bad

I'm afraid that probably wont be possible JB. If it was my money, I would head up to nizpro for there intake piping and then hitup aps for there final stage intercooler. Sure this might cost a little extra, but the extra grunt capabilities would so be worth it, not to mention that the nizpro kit makes the T feel like a supercharged v8 in its responce (ie, instant). I'm sure this would make the car drive allot nicer. Looks like you'll have to give the credit card another swipe!

I think you mean actuator? Axuator isn't a word JB. I'm fairly sure you mean't actuator (but others have posted axuator as well which had me somewhat confused). So which one and where on the engine? Would love to know.

And you dont know enough about programming of EEPROMS that run car ECU software. Sure tuning can make a big difference, but dont minimise the products influence too. There are several ways that Edit type software can be done, and it is very simplistic to say there wont be any MAJOR differences between them. There definitely can be huge differences. There are two main ways to do the so-called Edit software. 1) Work out how the existing one works. Work out where it stores its values in the registers (memory). Alter those registers (many of which are pre-set in the factory ECU tune), and you can therefore alter things like max boost, various mappings etc. You then upload that slightly modified standard ECU software to the ECU. 2) Reverse engineer the factory code. Find out what it does, what it expects from the various sensors, what it sends to the various parts of the car, and also how it reacts to various scenarios. (You can do most of that on a dyno). Create code that does the same, but since you wrote this code (even though it may be based on reverse engineered ie decompiled code) you can make it do whatever you want, and make software that allows tweaking and the production of new binary files that can then be uploaded to the car. The differences between the two can be VAST. The first one allows you to change things within the parameters established by the factory software. This can be good as often factory software is well written. However the second, if done properly, can be even better. Not only can it theoretically do everything the factory software can do, but as you are writing your own software not just changing values, you can also get it to do extra things that arent even available to the factory software. So, although you have tried to make it look simple, tried to make the products look equal, and tried to say people are being sucked in by advertising, you are saying so without understanding how these factory systems work, and how these custom modified binary files are created. If you dont understand that, you cant understand everything that they can do. If you dont understand what they can do, then you definitely cant say they are all equal. Your argument is fundamentally flawed. QED. I just think someones trying to shift some units before the monopoly ends. It's unfortunate that joe consumer can't make his/her own decisions based on what they feel comfortable with, and not be victims of a sales campaign... No-one can tell me product x is better than product y, if there is no product y.. btw, it's not just the product being sold. It's a complete package, down to the feature set, customer relations/service, warranty etc etc etc.. The current Edit can modify the entire engine/transmission memory allocation, has already reverse engineered the software and gives tables and values for every modifyable function available within the ECU's programable range. Whether its a new binary file or based on the existing one, it doesn't matter. If you know what every variable does and you have modified each one to your exacting specifications then there is no point on writing the whole thing again. Things like dashboard re assignment, as far as I am aware (I'd love to be 100% sure on this though, so please correct me if I'm wrong), are controlled seperately... Knowing this, then you can clearly see that, in this instance, an edit is an edit. I'm sure APS are not going to release something that is limited and from the information provided (which has mostly been proven already) the current one isn't. But whatever.... As long as the thing grabs the engine by the balls and shoots them out of a cannon down the quarter mile, who cares, right?

If they can give me ANY theoretical or practical explanation as to why a boost guage would cut around 100rwkw, I'd love to hear it. If they can't, or when they can't because they won't, then they must fix the issue. You could always find a g-tech from someone on the forums and run that a few times and then compare it to one of there XT falcons..... I'm sure they will get the picture pretty soon. And don't worry about using a g-tech to provide times. All you need is a 0-100 time and that can be done legally on any highway, and this isn't thrashing the car.

Which says nothing about manuals - it simply shows 70% of drivers are lazy... The same 70% applies to HSV cars. It isnt anything to be proud of. If you like to not be involved with your driving, and if you like maximum laziness in terms of required driver input, go an auto for sure. If you drive hard, then you NEED a manual. If you dont drive hard, then an auto is an option. I dont care how much power a person's car has - the choice of box says it all about their driving. (Top level drag cars with thousands of horsepower excluded). Agreed. Oh, and Top Fuelers run a fully computer controlled multi stage clutch, which isn't really a gearbox in the first place......

Err..... Get Ford to look at the wastegate... Probably a faulty connection somewhere telling it to do the wrong thing at the wrong time. Almost as if the computer is telling the wastegate to shut during WOT and open when the torque reduction cuts in for the shift.... Wierd.

Contact nizpro. Google "nizpro" and click the first link. Find there contact number and give them a call.